BlueSCSI v2 - DaynaPORT WiFi!

JDW

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I've contributed to the WiFi DaynaPORT wiki in an attempt to make the set up process a bit smoother...

Steve, when I clicked your link above today, and it opened something named "Create new page." After a little digging through the site, it seems like you were wanting to link to the following page...

 

JDW

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As is common for pretty much anything I do in life, I am having trouble on Step-1, which is mentioned in the Github page linked in my previous post. It says to do this...

"1. Download the beta firmware file and follow these instructions to update the firmware of your BlueSCSI v2."

So I downloaded the *.bin file from this page:

I download the *.bin file because I want to use the SD card method described here...

1696047705719.png

Note the text I highlighted above says:

"The next time your BlueSCSI boots up it will flash the latest release and remove the bin file. Do not power off the device while it is updating."

Sadly, it didn't work that way when I tried it.
I copied the *.bin file to my SD card as you can see here...

1696047781368.png

Yes, my SD card is formatted correctly as ExFAT...

1696047829012.png

I then ejected the SD card from my M1 MBP and inserted it back into my BSv2 installed in my Mac IIci, which has a DayStar Turbo040 cache card accelerator and a NuBus Radius Thunder 24 GT installed, alongside a DaynaPort E/II-T (10-Base-T Ethernet NuBus card). Yes, I inserted the SD card with my IIci turned OFF.

I then pressed the power button and the machine turned on, chimed, and booted into System 7.1 as usual and as fast as usual. I saw nothing special flashing on the BlueSCSIv2 at all. I didn't press any buttons on the BlueSCSI because the instructions didn't say to press buttons. After that, I shutdown my IIci, removed the SD card, put it back into my modern Mac and found the *.bin file was still there! But it is not supposed to be there if the flashing was successful. And like I said, no delays or unusual LED flashings happened when I booted my IIci, which seems to prove nothing was flashed.

Contents of LOG.txt show this...

Code:
[10ms] Platform: BlueSCSI Pico
[10ms] FW Version: 2023.01.25-release Jan 25 2023 08:22:29
Flash chip size: 2048 kB
 
=== SD Card Info ===
SD card detected, exFAT volume size: 30430 MB
SD Name: SE32G, MID: 0x03, OID: 0x53 0x44
 
=== Global Config ===
Config file bluescsi.ini not found, using defaults
 
=== Finding images in / ===
== Opening /HD20_512 Store.img for ID: 2 LUN: 0
---- Image ready
== Opening /HD10_512 Boot.img for ID: 1 LUN: 0
---- Image ready


=== ROM Drive ===
Platform supports ROM drive up to 1692 kB
---- ROM drive image not detected
 
=== Configured SCSI Devices ===
* ID: 1, BlockSize: 512, Type: Fixed, Quirks: Apple, Size: 2048048kB
* ID: 2, BlockSize: 512, Type: Fixed, Quirks: Apple, Size: 2097152kB
 
Initialization complete!

Any assistance you folks can kindly provide would be greatly appreciated. If I did something wrong, I would suggest the instructions be revised to show that. I'm not a super smart guy. I'm just your average vintage Mac lover who often needs a helping hand.

Thanks!

UPDATE: Because I often get faster replies on FaceBook, I pointed people in the Vintage Apple Macintosh Enthusiasts group to my post, and one person quickly confirmed the instructions must be wrong because he cannot get the SD card update method to work as described either. @eric , any thoughts?
 
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Drake

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As is common for pretty much anything I do in life, I am having trouble on Step-1, which is mentioned in the Github page linked in my previous post. It says to do this...

"1. Download the beta firmware file and follow these instructions to update the firmware of your BlueSCSI v2."

So I downloaded the *.bin file from this page:

I download the *.bin file because I want to use the SD card method described here...

View attachment 13729

Note the text I highlighted above says:

"The next time your BlueSCSI boots up it will flash the latest release and remove the bin file. Do not power off the device while it is updating."

Sadly, it didn't work that way when I tried it.
I copied the *.bin file to my SD card as you can see here...

View attachment 13730

Yes, my SD card is formatted correctly as ExFAT...

View attachment 13731

I then ejected the SD card from my M1 MBP and inserted it back into my BSv2 installed in my Mac IIci, which has a DayStar Turbo040 cache card accelerator and a NuBus Radius Thunder 24 GT installed, alongside a DaynaPort E/II-T (10-Base-T Ethernet NuBus card). Yes, I inserted the SD card with my IIci turned OFF.

I then pressed the power button and the machine turned on, chimed, and booted into System 7.1 as usual and as fast as usual. I saw nothing special flashing on the BlueSCSIv2 at all. I didn't press any buttons on the BlueSCSI because the instructions didn't say to press buttons. After that, I shutdown my IIci, removed the SD card, put it back into my modern Mac and found the *.bin file was still there! But it is not supposed to be there if the flashing was successful. And like I said, no delays or unusual LED flashings happened when I booted my IIci, which seems to prove nothing was flashed.

Contents of LOG.txt show this...

Code:
[10ms] Platform: BlueSCSI Pico
[10ms] FW Version: 2023.01.25-release Jan 25 2023 08:22:29
Flash chip size: 2048 kB
 
=== SD Card Info ===
SD card detected, exFAT volume size: 30430 MB
SD Name: SE32G, MID: 0x03, OID: 0x53 0x44
 
=== Global Config ===
Config file bluescsi.ini not found, using defaults
 
=== Finding images in / ===
== Opening /HD20_512 Store.img for ID: 2 LUN: 0
---- Image ready
== Opening /HD10_512 Boot.img for ID: 1 LUN: 0
---- Image ready


=== ROM Drive ===
Platform supports ROM drive up to 1692 kB
---- ROM drive image not detected
 
=== Configured SCSI Devices ===
* ID: 1, BlockSize: 512, Type: Fixed, Quirks: Apple, Size: 2048048kB
* ID: 2, BlockSize: 512, Type: Fixed, Quirks: Apple, Size: 2097152kB
 
Initialization complete!

Any assistance you folks can kindly provide would be greatly appreciated. If I did something wrong, I would suggest the instructions be revised to show that. I'm not a super smart guy. I'm just your average vintage Mac lover who often needs a helping hand.

Thanks!

UPDATE: Because I often get faster replies on FaceBook, I pointed people in the Vintage Apple Macintosh Enthusiasts group to my post, and one person quickly confirmed the instructions must be wrong because he cannot get the SD card update method to work as described either. @eric , any thoughts?
Screenshot_20230930-011040.png

Who sold you an unlicensed "GreenSCSI"? Lou Ferrigno? 🤣 (incredible Hulk)
Could use some solder touch ups.
 

JDW

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Who sold you an unlicensed "GreenSCSI"? Lou Ferrigno? 🤣 (incredible Hulk)
Could use some solder touch ups.
The IIci that I purchased recently from a vintage Mac enthusiast based in Canada kindly included that BlueSCSIv2 inside the machine. It otherwise works perfectly fine. I simply cannot use the SD card method of changing the firmware. So far on FaceBook, two other people confirmed they cannot do it via the SD card method either. Not sure if their PCB is green, or if there are soldering issues on theirs though.

 

eric

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UPDATE: Because I often get faster replies on FaceBook, I pointed people in the Vintage Apple Macintosh Enthusiasts group to my post, and one person quickly confirmed the instructions must be wrong because he cannot get the SD card update method to work as described either. @eric , any thoughts?
You are on a very old release (the first) - there was an issue with updating the via bin file in that release. Please just scroll down an bit and use the USB method.

Just because facebook gets replies in the middle of the night doesn't mean you'll get help :)
 

JDW

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You are on a very old release (the first) - there was an issue with updating the via bin file in that release. Please just scroll down an bit and use the USB method.

Just because facebook gets replies in the middle of the night doesn't mean you'll get help :)
I realize that FB doesn't always get me fast answers (although it often does), but 2 other people over there on FB said the SD card method didn't work for them. In light of that feedback, perhaps by adding a single sentence note saying "If this method does not work for you, it is likely your BlueSCSI is a very old release" would make the situation even more clear for everybody. (This is not a criticism or chastisement at all. It's just a suggestion.)

I will try the USB cable method. But please note that the reason I tried the SD card method first is because it is potentially the fastest and easiest method overall. When you get cables involved, there are always issues. In fact, one person on FB told me that he had to go through a few cables before he found one that worked. Hence, the SD card method is preferred if you can get it to work.

Thanks!
 

eric

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I added a note that if one didn't work try the other - though I'd think that was implicit with having 2 methods!

Unfortunately there are a lot of power only USB cables in the wild - if you ever find one cut it and throw it in the trash!
 
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JDW

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Here's my step-by-step feedback about flashing BSv2 via USB CABLE.

1. As I thought, it's not as fun as the SD Card method would probably be because you have to fiddle around finding a cable that will actually work. Thankfully, I finally did, but it took a while. This isn't a gripe as much as it is a factual reporting of my experience.

2. I went to this page, scrolled down to the section that says "Wi-Fi Beta Pre-Release" and then downloaded this *.uf2 file. And here's proof I downloaded the correct file...

1696115112832.png


3. While pressing the white button on the Pico W, I inserted the cable into my M1 Max MBP. Easier said than done, but ultimately it did mount as a USB drive labeled "RPI-RP2" — at which time I released the white button.

4. I dragged "BlueSCSI_Pico_2023-08-26_a2a91aec.uf2" to the mounted "RPI-RP2" drive. And about a second later, just as the instructions say, the drive unmount automatically. MacOS isn't very happy with the method of ejection, however...

1696115290875.png


Even so, it does eject. I removed my cable at that point.

5. I powered on my IIci and booted just fine from the BSv2, which was a great relief. I then shutdown the Mac.

6. Unfortunately, when I put the BSv2's SD card into my Mac and checked the LOG file, it says this...

Code:
[12ms] Platform: BlueSCSI Pico
[12ms] FW Version: 2023.07.08-dev Aug 26 2023 21:35:31
Flash chip size: 2048 kB
 
=== SD Card Info ===
SD card detected, exFAT volume size: 30430 MB
SD Name: SE32G, MID: 0x03, OID: 0x53 0x44
 
=== Global Config ===
Config file bluescsi.ini not found, using defaults
Active configuration:
 
=== Finding images in / ===
== Opening /HD20_512 Store.img for ID: 2 LUN: 0
---- Image ready
== Opening /HD10_512 Boot.img for ID: 1 LUN: 0
---- Image ready

=== ROM Drive ===
Platform supports ROM drive up to 1692 kB
---- ROM drive image not detected
 
=== Configured SCSI Devices ===
* ID: 1, BlockSize: 512, Type: Fixed, Quirks: Apple, Size: 2048048kB
* ID: 2, BlockSize: 512, Type: Fixed, Quirks: Apple, Size: 2097152kB
 
Initialization complete!
INFO: Pico Voltage: 3.247V.

Point your eyes to the opening part atop the LOG where it says:
FW Version: 2023.07.08-dev Aug 26 2023 21:35:31

But the file I flashed (or thought I flashed) is named "BlueSCSI_Pico_2023-08-26_a2a91aec.uf2". That date mismatch makes me worry nothing was flashed.

Yes, yes, I should have checked the LOG file BEFORE I attempted flashing, but could someone please confirm what the LOG file should say after flashing the file "BlueSCSI_Pico_2023-08-26_a2a91aec.uf2"?

I won't try anything else until I hear back on this point. Thanks!
 

eric

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One is the date it was built. The other is the version number (which is a date). So you are good to go.
 
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JDW

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@eric
Your WiFi DaynaPORT page says to use the following text as a template for the bluescsi.ini file content...

Code:
[SCSI]
WiFiSSID=MyWiFi
WiFiPassword=pass123
# Optional - Each Pico-W will generate its own MAC address, so normally not needed.
# WiFiMACAddress=00:80:19:C0:FF:EE

But my WIFI Network name has a space in it. Do I type the space normally like the following?

WiFiSSID=JDWs WIFI

Or must I type it like this?

WiFiSSID=JDWs%20WIFI

Or something else?

UPDATE: I can now answer my own question. Putting a normal space in the name is fine!



SUCCESS! Thank you, Eric!​


TIP
You must download an HDA file named "HD1 BlueSCSI v2 PicoW Setup.hda" but note that you might need to change the HD1 to HD2 or something else if you already have a disk image on your BlueSCSI's SD card that is using SCSI ID1. In other words, the "1" in the name is the SCSI ID. Change the "1" to an unused ID.
 
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Jason Heiser

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I’m striking out with getting this to work on a BlueSCSI v2 (freshly bought from Joe’s Computer Museum) in conjunction with a 2.5MB Mac Plus running System 6.0.8.

I gave the DaynaPORT emulation another shot this afternoon, and this time it worked!

Switching from “EtherTalk (A)” to “Ethernet Alternative” in the Control Panel for MacTCP made the difference. That said, I swear I tried this setting before! Maybe the BlueSCSI had trouble joining my home network for that particular boot cycle. The WiFi Desk Accessory @jcs is working on will be a tremendous convenience and a big help in troubleshooting. I look forward to its release and the finalization of this beta firmware.

FYI, I’m getting around 3,600 bytes/second between an FTP server hosted on a MacBook Pro and a volume on the BlueSCSI connected to a Mac Plus. That’s approximately the speed of a 28.8-baud modem.
 
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JDW

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I've spent many hours testing on my IIci, which has a Radius Thunder 24 GT video card and a DayStar Turbo040 40MHz accelerator installed (and their respective INITs), and of course I have a BlueSCSIv2 with a PICO W installed too.

Here are my findings:

1. System 7.1 with Open Transport 1.3 is bullet-proof. Browsing the web via WIFI is a joy!

2. Even before I install the DaynaPort SCSI driver, System 7.5.3 & 7.5.5 sometimes crash during the boot sequence (just before any icons display) with OT 1.3 or 1.3.1 installed. Disabling OT and rebooting avoids crashing, but obviously there's no meaning to have OT installed if it's always disabled to avoid a crash. Interestingly, when I remove the Turbo040 and reboot, there are no crashing issues whatsoever when OT is enabled. No crashing issues when I install the IIci Cache card either. My extensive testing shows there is an incompatibility with the Turbo040 and System 7.5.x when OT 1.3.x is installed. (Yes, my Turbo040 has the newest 4.11 firmware.)

3. Because of the crashing issues described in #2 above, I uninstalled OT 1.3 and decided to try the MacTCP instead. Before I installed the DaynaPort SCSI driver, there was no crashing during the boot sequence. But as soon as I installed Daynaport SCSI and restarted, my IIci was back to crashing again. No issues when the Turbo040 is removed.

4. No crashes when I boot 7.1, 7.6.1 or OS 8.1, even with the Turbo040 installed. When I installed the DaynaPort SCSI driver into the 7.6.1 System file and restarted, I was delighted to see it doesn't crash at all. Odd that 7.5.x crashes when 7.6.1 doesn't, but such is yet another great mystery surrounding the Daystar Turbo040.

5. Browsing while booted into System 7.1 seems a tad snappier than in 7.6.1, and of course the entire 7.1 OS is snappier overall. But the advantage to booting into 7.6.1 is that you can run browsers that require the "Drag Manager" (part of the Finder), which you cannot run in System 7.1. For example, I can run Microsoft Internet Explorer 4.01 while booted into 7.6.1. Even so, it's hard to beat the performance of Netscape 2.02. Even launching Netscape 4.0.8 is much slower compared to 2.02. After testing iCan 2.99b, and a host of other browsers, Netscape 2.02 is truly the speed champ on a 68k system. Of course, there are times you want to run Netscape 4.0.8 or MSIE, such as when you want to view QuickTime movies. Here's an example QuickTime VR that won't play on my modern Mac but plays great inside Netscape 4.0.8 on my IIci.

6. When I boot my IIci into any OS that has the DaynaPort drivers and networking setup for internet connectivity, BlueSCSIv2 will blink its activity LED rapidly to indicate WIFI is connected and available. That LED flashing is non-stop. If I launch apps or do work on my drive, then the LED flashing pattern will change to show me drive activity, but when that drive activity is finished, it returns to flashing rapidly again. At first, I really liked it because it tells me WIFI is working. But after a while, the LED flashing starts to get a little annoying because it's such a one-trick pony. It doesn't even change its flashing patter to indicate WIFI data transfers. So if there was an easy way to switch off that "WIFI-is-Ready" flashing so it will only flash when there's disk activity, that would be nice. (Not a criticism, just a suggestion.)

7. When booted into 7.6.1 with my Turbo040 installed and when downloading a 3MB PDF file using Transmit 1.6 (FTP client), I was able to achieve a sustained 75KB/s download speed with the lid of my IIci removed. (It started off at around 120KB/s, then dropped to 82KB/s, and the average in the end was 75KB/s.) My WIFI router is an Apple AirPort Extreme 802.11ac (white tower), located 2 rooms away from my room with the IIci. When I replaced the lid (which is how any IIci should be normally), downloading the same 3MB PDF file again resulted in a sustained 78KB/s download speed. I was overjoyed to see that the metallic lining of the IIci plastic case doesn't hinder the WIFI speed! BTW, when downloading this large 34MB QuickTime movie in Netscape 4.0.8, I get a download speed of about 48~70KB/s.




Separately from that, I'm pleased to report that my new Hakko FR-301 desoldering gun make quick work of the solder points that held down the standard PICO board on my other BSv2. I bought a PICO W and plan to upgrade that one. Desoldering wasn't too hard. I was really surprised at how well the Hakko FR-301 works. I basically just sucked on each pin twice (FR-301 set to the #2 temperature setting), then put some tape on my flat-head screwdriver to avoid gashing the PCBs, then I inserted the screwdriver between the BS PCB and the bottom of the PICO, then twisted a tiny bit (not forcefully), and the PICO popped right off. Note that I desoldered the PICO from the top, which is nice because the header remains soldered to the BlueSCSIv2 that way, and then you only need to plunk down your PICO W and solder it onto the header. I've not finished that soldering job yet, but I will report back on my upgrade success.

Overall, this has been a lot of fun, and I wish to thank and praise the amazing team of people who brought these amazing features to the masses. Way to go, guys!

@eric
@jcs
@Androda
@jokker
 
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eric

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DayStar Turbo040 40MHz accelerator installed
Good to know this incompatibility the DayStar and OT/MacTCP

BlueSCSIv2 will blink its activity LED rapidly to indicate WIFI is connected and available
This does not mean that - this is the DaynaPORT driver polling the SCSI bus - the Activity LED is hooked up to the SCSI BSY line - so every time the driver asks "Are there new network packets for me?" it flashes the light.

75KB/s download speed
This is pretty good!

Hakko FR-301 desoldering gun
Unless you are JDW or have experience desoldering I would not try it. We've had two people on discord fail to desolder the Pico. If you are handy with soldering anyways a kit + a Pico-W is the way to go.

Overall, this has been a lot of fun, and I wish to thank and praise the amazing team of people who brought these amazing features to the masses. Way to go, guys!
It's been a lot of fun seeing everyone get this working so smoothly!
 

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JDW

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@eric
I'm sorry to say I am stuck yet again, but this time on a different BlueSCSIv2.

I desoldered the PICO from my other BlueSCSIv2 (from Kay Koba), and soldered in a PICO W that I purchased from Amazon Japan. Here's a photo...

BlueSCSIv2_WontMount.jpg

Here's what I did with the PICO W board installed:

1. I downloaded this UTF file.

2. While pressing the button on the PICO W, I attached a known-good cable from my M1 Max MBP to my PICO W.

PROBLEM#1: "RPI-RP2" never mounts on my MBP.

Desoldering and Soldering were flawless thanks to my new Hakko FR-301, so the root problem must be something else. This is a brand new PICO W, so is that the problem? If you solder-in a blank/untouched PICO or PICO W, BlueSCSIv2 doesn't like it?


PROBLEM#2
If I disconnect the USB cable and just attach it to my IIci's internal 5V power (no 12V) and attached the internal SCSI cable, add a bootable SD card, and then power on the IIci, the BlueSCSI won't boot (flashing question mark disk icon on the display), and the LEDs are lit as shown below...

tempImageH4fe3f.png
 

alexADB

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I would think it must be one of the solder joints. You should re-check them for continuity and possible solder bridges. Is the SD Card known good? Because I stumbled across the topic of formatting yesterday. My IIci could not boot with a new SD Card containing a known good image. The issue was: I had chosen GUID scheme instead of MBR. After re-formatting with MBR the machine booted. Good luck!
 

JDW

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Thank you for your advice.

There is absolutely no soldering issues whatsoever. I confirmed that. No issues when desoldering the old PICO either, thanks to my brand new Hakko FR-301.

The SD card is known good and boots my other BlueSCSIv2 (the green colored one mentioned earlier). And to be even more sure, I bought another identical card and made a duplicate of my data on my good card to the new card. So it's absolutely not the SD card.

As to the formatting of the SD cards, I always use ExFAT as per the recommendation from Eric Helgeson in the past. It's not a driver issue either, because again, the SD card boots my other green-colored BlueSCSI just fine, and I am able to browse the net thanks to the PICO W on that one. But I acquired that one with a PICO W already soldered onto it. The blue colored BlueSCSIv2 I mentioned in my previous post is one I acquired from Kay Koba and which worked perfectly before. I simply desoldered the old PICO because it lacks the WIFI chip, then bought a PICO W from Amazon Japan, soldered that PICO W to the blue-colored BlueSCSIv2, then verified my solder joints were perfect, then tested on my IIci today and found the issues mentioned in my previous post.

I know Eric has told me that other people have tried and failed to swap the PICO with the PICO W, but I had the understanding those were soldering related issues.

What I really want to know is that if you remove a PICO and then add a brand new PICO or PICO W, is it supposed to work perfectly without having done any firmware updates? I don't know anything about the PICO boards or how they work, which is why I ask.

But like I said in my previous post, I cannot apply the latest update to my blue-colored unit because of some problem. And when I try to boot off it, it won't boot, and the LED is lit solid.
 

alexADB

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Yeah, ExFat is clear. I just wanted to point out that you can format an SD Card with ExFat and select GUID scheme which makes it most probably unusable for the BlueSCSI. After a reformat with MBR it worked.

It seems you have tried a lot already, so maybe the Pico W is just dead if you can't even mount it via USB to your MBP. Have you tested it successfully before soldering it onto the BlueSCSI?

When I did the same thing (switched my BlueSCSI from Pico to Pico W) I installed the firmware on the Pico W via USB. It mounted immediately to my Mac when I plugged it in while holding the button.
 
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JDW

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I didn't know I could connect only the PICO W to my Mac and mount it that way, which is why I never tried it. I could desolder it and try that, but I think I will wait to see what @eric has to say before I do that. For truly, if Eric can wave his magical advice wand and give me an insider trick to get it working without the need to desolder it, that is obviously best.