eMate 300 Restoration progress—My notes and your advice

[caver01]

I finally picked up an Apple eMate 300!
Like many of us, I remember seeing images here and there when the eMate was released for education thinking, wow, that would be a cool device to try. Later, I learned this was a Newton device, but I never really had the chance to try any of this, nor was I in a position to buy every piece of technology that interested me.

Of course, today, almost everything that seemed unattainable then can be found and obtained via the retro-computing treasure hunt that captivates us all!

SO, here I am, finally holding an eMate. This one seems to be in OK condition so I will quickly run through the bullet points of my adventure so far:

• eMate was purchasd AS-IS, no power adapter, no box, no manuals, no accessories, but WITH original stylus.
• Case looks good, screen seems intact and unscratched. No cracks, but. a little rough around the edges (someone was not careful separating the plastic with a screwdriver or something)
• I have NOT tried to power it on
• Screen hinges seem loose—does not hold display in angled positions (not good sign)
• Started cleaning and disassembly to inspect hinges (and dreaded ribbon cable issue)
• Found both hinges have sprung loose. Ribbon cable punctured ;-(
• Removed display ribbon for possible repair, removed hinges
• Repaired hinge springs and rebuilt, lubed, and installed retention washers
• Power adapter just arrived from a recent eBay purchase.

At this point, I decided to order @Androda ’s replacement display cable. I am getting pretty good with the soldering iron, so maybe I can repair my cable which I haven’t tested, but I can see traces have been severed on both halves. If I can make it work, I will have a backup. If not, the replacement is on order.

I also ordered the memory upgrade card from Androda.

Quesitons and Next Steps for me:

• Attempt repair of original ribbon
• Reassemble hinges and install NEW ribbon cable (or test my repair)
• Plug it in and see if it boots up!!!
• Obtain some MiMH batteries and attempt the relatively simple looking battery rebuild
• Backup????
• What is the best cable + desktop option for eMate syncing?
  • I have compact macs, Powerbook 5300, eMac that dual boots 9/X, 2011 intel Mini, 2014 Mini, M1 Mini.
  • I have an old PC card ethernet adapter (works in the 5300)
  • I have a small “boneyard” of old cables. maybe a serial cable in there, maybe an old Palm Pilot USB to serial adapter
• Install Memory upgrade card
• Restore???

As a retro enthusiast, my collection of Apple stuff is growing, so I SHOULD have at least some ability to sync this up with a desktop. I could do so with an M1 Mini, a 2011 or 2014 Mini, an eMac that dual-boots OS9/X, an older Powerbook 5300, or a handful of compact macs (SE, SE/30).

I assume the compact macs are useless here, so I am wondering where I should start with trying to get a backup once I get that far. I see warnings about backups before installing the memory upgrade, but since I have never booted this eMate, how important is this? I have nothing to lose— or do I risk bricking the little guy without a backup?

I know some of you reading this have already been down this road and may have welcome advice. I am looking forward to resurrecting another eMate!

 

[splorp]

Let me see if I can offer some answers to your questions …

Backup????

Are you trying to save whatever is currently on the eMate? If so, the easiest way might be to locate a memory card and perform a backup directly to that.

What is the best cable + desktop option for eMate syncing?

You’ll need a Mini-DIN (DIN-8) serial cable to connect to one of your older Macs that has the same style serial or modem port. It is possible to connect to a newer Mac over USB with a FTDI-compatible adapter cable, but those are getting hard to locate.

Pawel Piotrowski has compiled some information regarding USB-to-Serial cables here:

Best USB-to-Serial cables and dongles to connect Newtons with modern computers | APPLE NEWTON

applenewton.co.uk

Backing up and restoring from OS 9 requires Newton Connection Utilities.

United Network of Newton Archives

www.unna.org

On OS X, you’ll need Simon Bell’s Newton Connection.

Newton Connection

Newton Connection software for Mac OS X.

newtonresearch.org

Restore???

See the backup information above.

 

[caver01]

Thanks! In reply:

Are you trying to save whatever is currently on the eMate? If so, the easiest way might be to locate a memory card and perform a backup directly to that.

I haven’t even turned on the eMate yet, so I don’t know what is on it. My question was more about the NEED to back it up if I am installing Androda’s memory upgrade. If the upgrade just resets the eMate to defaults, that seems fine to me—starting from scratch. But if it potentially renders the device unusable without the ability to restore some boot-critical software, I will need to figure out a backup solution before I install the hardware.

Using a memory card, I assume, means a PC/PCMCIA memory card. That’s actually a really good idea like basically a removable drive for backups. But does the eMate provide the ability on-device to backup to the card? Or do I need to do that through sync software on the Mac? And if the latter, I would already have the cabling etc. to do the backup that way.

Sounds like I will need to figure out my cabling solution anyway. My old Powerbook might be the easiest way first, since it might be the newest device I own with the serial port (pre-USB).

 

[Yoda]

Even out of the box, an eMate will (would) boot up to the core Newton OS interface. I seem to recall a brief new user setup for time/location/name etc, but the actual software is in ROM so it'll come up even with RAM wiped.

So no, you don't need to back up what may already be saved, unless there is prior user data to retain. Likely if there is anything from the prior user, you'd end up deleting it anyway!

I never tried a 'memory card' but there is/was fairly narrow compatibility if I recall.

I've used a Newton/USB cable as described by @splorp above, and Newton Connection software on the Mac, and it can be a bit frustrating, but since I also used a straight 8-pin cable to a 68k Mac and it worked flawlessly, I suspect this was more about the FTDI USB adapter cable than anything.

Realistically, whether a Newton or eMate, my guess is that most users would probably reset it and work from scratch - which would be just about the same as your eMate after the memory upgrade. In other words, I don't think you need to be overly concerned about backing it up before the upgrade.

 

[caver01]

Realistically, whether a Newton or eMate, my guess is that most users would probably reset it and work from scratch - which would be just about the same as your eMate after the memory upgrade. In other words, I don't think you need to be overly concerned about backing it up before the upgrade.

Thanks for this. Puts my mind at ease and gets me excited to make some progress getting this up and running.
I just watched the Love Notes to Newton documentary, so I am looking forward to joining a new community of enthusiasts!

 

[Yoda]

Thanks for this. Puts my mind at ease and gets me excited to make some progress getting this up and running.
I just watched the Love Notes to Newton documentary, so I am looking forward to joining a new community of enthusiasts!

I must admit that I don't use my eMate all that much any longer, but it was one of my must-haves when I started what is a fairly loose collection of vintage systems. It's quite unique amongst laptops due to the Newton OS, and remarkably well thought out.

Mine came from a school system, and was set up as a teacher resource, which was cool but not exactly what I needed, so I did a simple reset to return it to out-of-box settings, and have messed with it a fair bit since, including using it as a mobile wordprocessor for a time, using the USB adapter cable and Newton Connection to retrieve my documents from it.

It's a fun machine!

 

[caver01]

Thanks! I am looking forward to it. Today, I am trying to decide if I should mess with the ribbon cable now removed and try to repair the broken traces, or just wait for the replacement. I don’t actually know if it even works at all, but it’s pretty clean inside from what I can tell. I suspect it was probably set aside as soon as the hing popped that punctured the ribbon and has been unused ever since. I do see signs that someone has been in here before trying to fix at least one of the hinges which also accounts for some mishandling of the shell at separation points. We shall see. I will post updates as I make progress over the next few weeks.

 

[splorp]

Once you get the eMate up and running (and are able to connect to it), you’ll need to install this patch for the OS to recognize any year after 2010.

Patch 732000

40hz.org

Additional reading:

Newton FAQ: Newton OS

Frequently asked questions and answers lovingly compiled and sporadically edited specifically for the Apple Newton community.

newtonfaq.com

 

[caver01]

Oh, thanks for that! I had no idea. Will review the FAQ now.

 

[Elemenoh]

In case this hasn't already been covered you can get a new cable from https://androda.work/product/emate-300-screen-flex-cable/

Make sure to add some washers under the screws to prevent future pop-out.

 

[nottomhanks]

Has anyone documented refreshing the eMate battery pack?

 

[splorp]

Yep. Frank Gründel has a pretty good walkthrough …

How to rebuild / refurbish an Apple eMate battery pack

Hardware and software for Apple Newton MessagePad and eMate, disassembly and battery pack refurbish instructions

www.pda-soft.de

There are a couple other options listed in the Newton FAQ …

How do I recondition or rebuild a Newton battery pack?

Newton FAQ: Hardware

Frequently asked questions and answers lovingly compiled and sporadically edited specifically for the Apple Newton community.

newtonfaq.com

 

[caver01]

In case this hasn't already been covered you can get a new cable from https://androda.work/product/emate-300-screen-flex-cable/

Make sure to add some washers under the screws to prevent future pop-out.

Yeah, I mentioned in my original post that I already ordered one, (and have received it) as well as repaired hinges and restored retention washers.

 

[caver01]

Regarding the battery, I already ordered and received my replacement MiMH cells (with tabs) so I will be doing the battery rebuild soon. A few house projects got in the way progress on this, but I will be adding more notes over the next few weeks. Thanks for all of the input.

 

[splorp]

Looking forward to seeing how this turns out.

 

[caver01]

Adding a brief update. . .
Packages received:

• Newton/eMate power adapter
• Androda’s replacement display cable and memory upgrade module
• NiMH cells for battery rebuild

I still need to figure out a sync cable solution.

So, today I finally installed the rebuilt hinges—or at least screwed them down to the main chassis. I think I have the perfect washer/screw combo (had to replace the center screws because the original black ones had the Philips heads stripped out—someone must have been in here before trying to fix things).

While my workbench has been left perfectly intact like a snapshot of where I left off, I find myself at a loss to recall the exact procedures to reverse disassembly. I am sure I can figure it out by referencing some of the guides I used earlier to take it all apart, but it is a bit frustrating how the intervening weeks have dulled my memory of which screw goes where. I did keep everyting somewhat separated, but I will need some references to get it right.

After test fitting the old, presumed bad display cable to refresh my memory, I think my next step is to fold the new ribbon cable, get it taped and threaded through the hinge slot so I can continue putting the display back together. I am pretty sure once I get through that I will be home free. I am anxious to try a first boot and see where we stand.

One interesting bit was that the left rubber pen holder had something jammed inside real good. A little green plastic nub had obviously broken off in the bottom. Fortunately, these rubber parts are easy to pop out and I was able to free the trapped piece of plastic. I am really digging the construction of this little eMate. The plastic is strong, nicely reinforced, and aside from the hinge issue, thoughtfully designed. Even though a few things seem fragile (volume/contrast sliders) it seems very tough overall which is a far cry from my attempts at restoring a PB 5300 which was crumbling with every touch!

Here are a couple of images as I get going again:

 

[caver01]

It turns out that little nub that was jammed into the pen holder was actually the back tip of the stylus itself! Who knew? I thought my stylus was complete, but I guess there is a little seam at the end. I can glue it back together, but this is one mystery solved.

With the hinges rebuilt, I began reassembly and decided to address the annoying “chips” along the parting edges of the shell. These are pry marks, marring the seam—probably from a screwdriver in the hand of someone who did not know how to open the eMate:

I found a technique that worked well to smooth and hide these issues which are not only visual. There are so many sharp marks along the edges that protrude enough to feel them has you handle the eMate. I noticed that by using a nylon spudger tool, I can rub the handle of the tool along the edge. This friction creates just enough heat to move some of the marks back into position. It‘s like filing the plastic without losing anything to dust! It worked so well that I ran this tool around all of the parting edges and found many of the marks could be repaired and made to disappear this way.


Finally, it was time to route the new display cable, but before you do that, it needs to be folded. The original has adhesive between the mirrored sections so it behaves nicely. I used 3M ATG tape for this. ATG is thin archival art adhesive that is also removable/reversible. This worked perfectly. Finally, the coiled section that wraps around the hinge has a reinforcing tape on the original. I kept adhesive off of that section so the mated layers could slip past each other more easily as they make the sharp curve, but I did reinforce the outside like the original using some Kapton tape cut perfectly at the edge to match the original.

I am so grateful for Androda’s precision work here. This ribbon folded and matched up perfectly.

As everything was going together nicely following written and visual guides, I was almost finished only to realize that my restored hinges were not giving enough friction. What a bummer! Smooth operation is only part of the equation, as they need to support the weight of the display to hold it at different viewing angles and to resist motion using the pen.

So, EVERYTHING came back apart, ribbon unwrapped, and the hinges removed again. At least I hadn’t buttoned everything up before realizing this. After some time, I had the hinges reworked again and everything went back together quickly after that.

This was quite an adventure, but I am not done yet! I now need to troubleshoot, as it is NOT working. I will continue to add milestone steps to this thread, but I decided to make a new post with the next phase of troubleshooting for better visibility. TO BE CONTINUED. . .

 

[caver01]

Not sure what fixed it, but reassembly led to either my not waiting long enough for a reset, or something wasn’t seated correct. It might have been the plunger switch, maybe mainboard out of alignment—whatever the case was, I appreciate input on another thread. At this point, I have more progress:



That’s right! I have a welcome screen, working backlight, keyboard etc. etc.
I still need to secure the back panel and install the memory upgrade module, but I now have a working eMate!
Next steps:

• Finish buttoning back up and test again.
• install Androda’s memory upgrade and test again.
• attempt a battery rebuild and test
• figure out my serial connectivity solution and do some backups, patches, software updates!
• Maybe track down a less-chewed-on stylus!

 

[caver01]

Battery pack rebuilt with new NiMH cells:



Tested cell voltages to see that they all add up in the end, and checked resistance across the thermistor. I think we are good. Using cells with tabs made this rebuild almost trivial thanks to the simple design of the spring clips and slip-in package. Not exactly user-serviceable, but a heck of a lot easier than some of the battery packs made these days.

I think this is a good sign:

 

[caver01]

Look at the new friends: