Sorry if I missed that in the thread. I'll add you to the list. Also, I'll use your new improved. version for the next order, assuming the results of my test print are good.
MacEffects Appreciation Post
- Thread starter wottle
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- maceffects
Since this has now largely become a 3D printing thread, I'd like to ask if any of you STL file creators know why the following model looks "transparent" in places...
Take note of this little arrow...
Now look at the view below and note how the arrow looks like it is suspended in mid air!
Got the STL file here:
(Created by Nick Gillard, who makes the Pico Mac Nano.)
I've been thinking about printing that yoke protector, now that I've removed my SE/30's CRT so as to install the LCD kit by @zigzagjoe .
@jmacz might have an opinion on this, because it sort of reminds me of the 040 heatsink clip with those arms that come down with hooks at the end. I should definitely avoid getting this printed in SLC Nylon at JLC.
Take note of this little arrow...
Now look at the view below and note how the arrow looks like it is suspended in mid air!
Got the STL file here:
Macintosh 128K/512K/Plus/SE CRT Protection Cap by 1-bit rainbow | Download free STL model | Printables.com
Download 3D printable STL models
www.printables.com
(Created by Nick Gillard, who makes the Pico Mac Nano.)
I've been thinking about printing that yoke protector, now that I've removed my SE/30's CRT so as to install the LCD kit by @zigzagjoe .
@jmacz might have an opinion on this, because it sort of reminds me of the 040 heatsink clip with those arms that come down with hooks at the end. I should definitely avoid getting this printed in SLC Nylon at JLC.
James,This thread seems to have been 3D printing focused since Post #6.
But for a very logical reason. The topic of the CLEAR CASE from MacEffects naturally leads everyone to ponder the important bits which need to be made clear, such as the brightness knob...
View attachment 22209
And that brightness knob also pertains to the @zigzagjoe LCD Retrofit Kit. Doesn't need to be clear for the LCD Kit if you use the stock SE/30 case, and it does not even need to be 3D Printed at all if you use your existing knob. But if you want to retain your old Analog Board in complete condition, you would need a 3D Printed Brightness Knob (what we've been talking about of late), and also a 3D Printed Fan Mount too so you can mount a Noctua NF-A6x25 fan in it. (See also Instructions & Screws and the Forum writeup.)
View attachment 22217
But in terms of a CLEAR BRIGHTNESS KNOB, the photo above has a semi-transparent appearance similar to what I've had printed at JLC3DP in what they call "Translucent" 8001 Resin. It's foggy and not 100% clear like a MacEffects SE Clear Case. However, you can also order "Transparent" 8001 Resin prints...
View attachment 22213
See 32:56 in my video here to see JLC Translucent vs. Transparent.
But this brings us back to the topic of the tiny center piece with a split in the middle, which grabs onto the shaft of the Potentiometer. Will any of the JLC Resin offerings work without cracking? The answer will depend on how much that little center piece (with split in middle) FLEXES when the POT shaft is inserted into it. I know Nylon wouldn't break, but Nylon may actually be too flexible to make a good of the POT shaft!
It's very kind of @caver01 to have made the "Two in One" STL to get around JLC's frustrating minimum size requirement... FANTASTIC, in fact! But below are my observations about that.
OBSERVATION #1
The only transparent choice you have for FDM printing is TPU Translucent, but TPU is very rubbery and flexible, as far as I know (I've never tried it), and therefore I don't see how it would be suitable for a brightness knob (or would it?)...
View attachment 22214
OBSERVATION #2
It would seem to me that ABS would be stronger and more durable over time than PLA of the other FDM plastic options, and if that "guess" on my part is true, then you only have BLACK or WHITE as color options...
View attachment 22215
So I would love to hear discussion about what I said above, and then I can decide what to print for myself at JLC3DP.
And in regards to the Desk Saver Feet (to allow you to sit an SE or SE/30 with plastic case back OFF on your desk without worry of scratches, in what way is the new overhange converted to 45° version superior to the original? I printed the original in Nylon and had no issues with it in terms of getting the plastic SE/30 case-back on, but I will admit that I leave the metal shield off...
View attachment 22216
as for the clear resin durability question: you may want to reach out to Javier. I’m pretty certain he gets his clear 3D parts from PCBWAY. I have mice & joysticks from him that I’d think were injection molded if I didn’t know any better.
they are crystal clear & seem very strong to me…
I just realized I can RESIN CAST this part!! Hahahahaha! I can even tint one for my Blue MacEffects case too! I have a vacuum pot & pressure chamber.
I'd still like TWO, not THREE of your 3D printed ones, please!
I can't get into casting a test until I finish my Data General Dasher Terminal Recreation. It may be a while.
I'd still like TWO, not THREE of your 3D printed ones, please!
I can't get into casting a test until I finish my Data General Dasher Terminal Recreation. It may be a while.