Macintosh Portrait Display Repair - Smearing/Pulsing Image on Screen

warmech

Tinkerer
Oct 30, 2021
79
101
33
Hello all!

I posted this on 68kMLA and thought it might be worth posting here as well. I acquired a Macintosh Portrait Display from a warehouse in Houston that had been there for possibly (probably) years, so I was not expecting it to outright work after being in the coastal Texas heat and humidity for so long. Got it home and wired up a test cable to get the following:



Another local retro-computer user here in DFW also had one with similar issues (no pulsing, but the same smearing problem), and his was in much better shape than mine, so I thought it might very well just be aged caps. The high voltage and signal processing seemed okay (it was, after all, displaying an image with no sync/linearity issues), and the gain, brightness, sub-brightness, and contrast adjustments all affected the intensity of the problem(s). I'd never read anything about any common component failures in these, so caps seemed like a good place to start.

I started with recapping the power/sweep PCB, thinking that something might be awry with the circuitry driving the CRT. There were 35 caps to replace on the power/sweep board but, ultimately, none of them were directly responsible for the issue; still, this will go a long way to keep this thing alive. Next were the caps on the video signal board. There were 31 in total and this thing was much easier to work on than the other PCB. For one thing, it was about the size of a DVD case (the sweep board is about 10" by 12"); for another, it had no large or protruding components, which made it very easy to position when soldering new caps in place. Once everything had been replaced, back in it went and... everything was working great! The image is stable (with a tiny little amount of pincushion that I can iron out later) and has no artifacts, smearing, etc. In retrospect, I should have probably suspected the video board first and foremost; as I mentioned earlier, adjustments to the contrast, gain, bias, and sub-brightness controls directly affected the smearing and pulsing as seen in the video. I feel kind of dumb for not catching that sooner.

IMG_3202.jpg

Below is a table of the caps on each board and their values; additionally, I've also put together a Mouser project link for the caps I used - hopefully some of this may be useful to someone some day!

Mouser Project

Chassis (Sweep Board)Signal BoardNeck Board

C921: 470uF 10v
C926: 100uF 16v
C918: 3300uF 16v
C722: 33uF 16v
C740: 100uF 16v
C919: 1000uF 16v
C670: 47uF 16v
C663: 22uF 16v
C743: 1000uF 16v
C624: 10uF 16v
C718: 10uF 25v
C917: 1000uF 25v
C927: 22uF 25v
C623: 10uF 25v
C604: 1000uF 25v
C923: 4.7uF 50v
C734: 1uF 50v
C924: 1000uF 50v
C621: 47uF 50v
C612: 100uF 50v
C742: 1uF 50v
C601: 1uF 50v
C704: 1uF 50v
C706: 220uF 50v
C909: 47uF 100v
C905: 10uF 100v
C914: 220uF 100v
C915: 220uF 100v
C924: 47uF 100v
C916: 100uF 100v
C622: 4.7uF 100v
C710: 220uF 100v
C653: 1uF 100v
C717: 4.7uF 250v
C100: 330uF 400v
C322: 100uF 10v
C302: 100uF 10v
C356: 220uF 10v
C326: 33uF 16v
C310A: 470uF 16v
C310B: 470uF 16v
C32: 47uF 16v
C30: 100uF 16v
C301: 100uF 16v
C334A: 470uF 16v
C334B: 470uF 16v
C332A: 470uF 16v
C332B: 470uF 16v
C307: 10uF 16v
C325: 33uF 16v
C327: 10uF 16v
C304: 10uF 16v
C36: 100uF 16v
C503: 47uF 16v
C506: 100uF 16v
C313A: 470uF 16v
C313B: 470uF 16v
C316: 470uF 16v
C312: 100uF 16v
C308: 100uF 16v
C513: 47uF 16v
C510A: 4.7uF 250v
C510B: 4.7uF 250v
C505A: 4.7uF 250v
C505B: 4.7uF 250v
C331: 4.7uF 250v
C353: 47uF 16v
C349: 33uF 100v
C507: 33uF 100v
C321: 4.7uF 160v
C508: 4.7uF 250v
C330: 4.7uF 250v
 
Last edited:

fehervaria

Tinkerer
Sep 23, 2021
153
159
43
48
North Germany
Amazing!
This is again a good example to change the old capacitors can bring back the life into "any" old electronic devices.
One day, I had a talk with @JDW, and his opinion: "recap'em all".
Here we go. Good job, 60+ capacitors... (y)
 
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Mac84

Administrator
Staff member
Founder
Sep 4, 2021
190
266
63
New Jersey, USA
www.mac84.net
Excellent! Thank you so much for documenting this! (y)

I'll have to do it with my Portrait display one day. Do you know the manufacture date or revision number of your display? Apparently there are two revisions, so I wonder if there are differences between them.

So glad you got yours working again! 😄
 
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warmech

Tinkerer
Oct 30, 2021
79
101
33
Excellent! Thank you so much for documenting this! (y)

I'll have to do it with my Portrait display one day. Do you know the manufacture date or revision number of your display? Apparently there are two revisions, so I wonder if there are differences between them.

So glad you got yours working again! 😄

Thanks! I was hoping I'd be able to get it back in working order - I've wanted one of these for a long time, mostly because of how out of place they look next to pretty much everything else in terms of display hardware.

Mine was manufactured in April 1989 (serial number HY9153YWM0404), but I am unsure of the revision number; I can crack it open later and take a look at the boards to see if one is listed.

Additionally, because I'm "meh" at making decent-looking cables, I've got a tiny PCB designed that should eliminate the need for either homemade cables or the original, unicorn-class cables for these displays. As 13W3 right-angle connectors are still available (but not for cheap, lol), it seemed like a decent, tidy-looking solution over cobbling a cable together. The board size is something like 2.4 x 1.2 inches, so the two connecters are squeezed in as tightly as I could reasonably get them. The output is a female DA15, so a standard Mac display cable will work just fine; I figured anyone who might want one would at least have one of those lying around.

If it works well enough, I'll probably design a 3D-printable case for it and post everything on GitHub for folks who want to make their own. For those who don't, I may setup a Tindie shop to sell pre-assembled ones, as I have a few other PCB ideas Id like to work on as well.

Screen Shot 2021-11-06 at 3.53.13 PM.png
 

ScutBoy

Administrator
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Founder
Sep 2, 2021
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Northfield, MN USA
Excellent! Thank you so much for documenting this! (y)

I'll have to do it with my Portrait display one day. Do you know the manufacture date or revision number of your display? Apparently there are two revisions, so I wonder if there are differences between them.

So glad you got yours working again! 😄

Huh - did not know there were two versions, and pulled the trigger on the cap kit that was linked. I guess I'll see what I've got when I open it up :)
 

ScutBoy

Administrator
Staff member
Founder
Sep 2, 2021
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Northfield, MN USA
I ordered this cart full of caps from Mouser yesterday. Two of them were on back order. I got an update today - one is estimated to be available to ship in Febrary and the other next May :)
 

warmech

Tinkerer
Oct 30, 2021
79
101
33
I ordered this cart full of caps from Mouser yesterday. Two of them were on back order. I got an update today - one is estimated to be available to ship in Febrary and the other next May :)

Ah, fudge - sorry about that. :( Let me know which ones and I'll update the project.
 

warmech

Tinkerer
Oct 30, 2021
79
101
33
Welp, I'm back with an update! After taking a stab at designing an adapter that would let me use a common (and cheap) 15-pin Macintosh video cable, I finally have results...

Old and busted:
IMG_3241.jpg


New hotness:
IMG_3242.jpg


It works great! After this revision (because I wasn't paying attention to the pin spacing on the back of the 13W3 connector I had versus the component footprint I was using) I need to get some cheaper connectors and adjust the design to fit them correctly, then I plan on listing these on Tindie or something. Between folks who either have a crummy handmade cable like mine, or a broken OEM cable, or just don't have one altogether, there has to be a couple of people out there who might like one of these for their MPD.

Additionally, I'd like to design a 3D printable enclosure for this thing; maybe that will be a Thanksgiving project.
 

techav

Tinkerer
Nov 30, 2021
17
43
13
github.com
Oooh! My Portrait display is doing the same thing after spending a decade in non-climate-controlled storage in east Texas. I've been putting off diving into it, but that cap list gives me a great head start.

Thanks warmech!
 

iJol

New Tinkerer
Nov 14, 2021
4
3
3
Munich, Germany
Hey!

I've got a Portrait Display a few days ago with the original screen cable, but it doesn't power on. I don't hear high voltage at all.

I've already checked, if the fuse is blown (it isn't) or if I see any loose connections on the board. I want to try to get this thing working, but my screen is the "International" version where the Service Manual that I've found on google does not fit.

Does anyone where I can find the service manual for the international version of the Monitor?

Regards,
Julian
 

iJol

New Tinkerer
Nov 14, 2021
4
3
3
Munich, Germany
Excellent! Thank you so much for documenting this! (y)

I'll have to do it with my Portrait display one day. Do you know the manufacture date or revision number of your display? Apparently there are two revisions, so I wonder if there are differences between them.

So glad you got yours working again! 😄

Hey Steve,

yep - the Rev B that I have seems to be different. The EMI-shield is different and the design of the boards too.

Here are some photos of mine - manufactured in July 1992.
1771.jpgIMG_1775 Kopie.jpgIMG_1774 Kopie.jpg

Regards from Germany,
Julian
 
Last edited:

iJol

New Tinkerer
Nov 14, 2021
4
3
3
Munich, Germany
So, thanks to the German classic computer community - I found the Service Manual on the Apple Service Source CD 2.0 from the Internet Archive. Now I can check all the transistors and caps on the Main Deflection Board on my Portrait Display :) It's very different from the "domestic" version.
 
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iJol

New Tinkerer
Nov 14, 2021
4
3
3
Munich, Germany
Yep, I'm looking forward to get it fixed. To remove the Main Deflection Board (the sweep board on the domestic version) you have to remove the CRT-assembly and lay the CRT flat on the table. Very crazy. Haven't take it further apart until now.

I don't know if the brown crust you can see on the Main Deflection Board is cap juice or flux / other residues from manufacturing. The caps that I can see looks good. Want to check all of the transistors and caps in the power section of the board, I want to get this thing working again!