Macintosh SE or SE/30 Fan Bracket

alxlab

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Here's a fan bracket I made for the Macintosh SE or SE/30, It will work with the horizontal and vertical CRT neck boards.

The fan is attached with standard fan screws so any 60mm fan that is 25mm thick or less should work. The bracket itself is attached using stand 6-32 screws commonly used for 3.5" hard drives.

This can printed without support on an FDM printer.

1647319738154.jpeg
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https://github.com/alxlab-zone66x/Macintosh_SE_Fan_Bracket_805-0936-A


If you don't like my design there's also 2 other designs I've found:

Apple Macintosh SE/30 Fan bracket by S0N1C
Macintosh SE Squirrel Cage Fan to 60mm Boxer Fan Upgrades by plgagne
 
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Trash80toG4

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LOVE IT! Great work, had something similar in mind back when @MacEffects was developing the clear case.

One suggestion, not pickin' nits here, love it as is, but if interested in further development:
Take that fabulous adapter to your local big box home tinkering store for comparison to a round to rectangular ductwork adapter, the type used for transition between supply tube and a register outlet. If you can employ that kind of transition in cubic available there should be much improved airflow. An attendant reduction in decibel output from running the fan a tad slower or downsizing it a bit to match goes with the trail you're blazing.

You'll probably want to switch from standard boltup fan installation to a blind drill and tap installation design to negate bit of turbulence the holes induce in the ducting of your current design.

Again, fabulous work as is. ;)
 
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alxlab

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The attitude I took when designing it was to make it at least as good as the original part (the metal bracket) while also making it easy to print with an FDM printer without supports. I also wanted it to be easy to install the fan with to provided mounting screws of the fan without having to buy extra hardware.

If I remember correctly, I made sure the height and width and depth of the bracket was the same as the original bracket so the position of the fan would be the same.

If you can employ that kind of transition in cubic available there should be much improved airflow. An attendant reduction in decibel output from running the fan a tad slower or downsizing it a bit to match goes with the trail you're blazing.

I'm familiar with duct work but I'm not sure if I understand 100% what you're trying to say. Do you mean to have more of a conic shape of the intake vs the slight trumpet shape it has now? Honestly I don't think it would make that much of a difference and maybe the picture make it look a lot worse that it actually is. The room for a bit of play bit not that much. Here's a image of the profile.

1657035757191.png


Probably the best advice to reduce noise from the fan would be to just get a modern quiet fan like the Noctua NF-A6x25 FLX.


blind drill and tap installation design

I also not exactly sure what you mean by this so if you could elaborate on this with maybe a diagram or something that would be great.

I have thought about the possible effects you mentioned from the screw holes. The fan could be screwed in from the back with long screw/bolts but I didn't particularly like the idea requiring people to buy extra bolts to mount the fan on the bracket. In the end I made the conscious decision to prioritize ease of installation and manufacturing. In order to follow my own criteria and to solve the issue, I would probably design some screw caps to cover the holes. I'm not convinced it worth the effort though.

If I were to improve something it would be regarding the ease of installation. The Mac SE solders the fan's wires to the analog board. So in order to install a standard consumer fan like the Noctua you would need to cut off the fan connector and then connect to the existing wires somehow. I was sorta thinking at maybe adding a mini PCB with a fan header to make it easy to connect a fan without needing to cut the fan connector off. To require soldering probably screw terminals for the existing power wire would make sense. This would add cost and complicates manufacturing of the bracket though. Yeah, I dunno. Still on the fence about this. In reality how often are you really going to replace the fan? Probably once in a lifetime.
 

retr01

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I use Noctua fans in my SE/30 and IIci. Similar to the gaskets for the four-hole attachment of the Noctua fan, the person could opt to get rubber washers that will serve as additional gaskets attaching the @alxlab fan bracket. At the screw holes, adjust for the recession to accept rubber washers as gaskets. I do not think bolts will be needed.

The gaskets can help reduce vibration and noise and seal the airflow. @Trash80toG4 is pointing out the ductulator that will maintain the airflow between round to rectangular. As for the blind hole, standard inlines fit the common screws used in computers and electronics should work? Case point, there are holes ready in the adapter for BlueSCSI by @Androda that I can easily use the same screws used for the HDD bracket.

Cheers!
 

Trash80toG4

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The attitude I took when designing it was to make it at least as good as the original part (the metal bracket) while also making it easy to print with an FDM printer without supports. I also wanted it to be easy to install the fan with to provided mounting screws of the fan without having to buy extra hardware.

I'm familiar with duct work but I'm not sure if I understand 100% what you're trying to say. Do you mean to have more of a conic shape of the intake vs the slight trumpet shape it has now?

Cross-Section-FAN-SE-n-30.JPG


Assuming the gray is an extended view of the outlet? Rectangular exit would extend to meet the corners of the bucket's grill, well past the screw bolt hole locations. From memory, bucket grill is taller on the Y axis and narrower on the X axis than the circular fan outlet?

tube at bottom and planar extension at top should be ignored. Your housing's intake and outlet would take the form of the transition section.

Register-Boot.JPG


Probably the best advice to reduce noise from the fan would be to just get a modern quiet fan like the Noctua NF-A6x25 FLX.
Better airflow/turbulence/noise reduction applies equally for a quieter fan. ;)

. . . have thought about the possible effects you mentioned from the screw holes. The fan could be screwed in from the back with long screw/bolts but I didn't particularly like the idea requiring people to buy extra bolts to mount the fan on the bracket. In the end I made the conscious decision to prioritize ease of installation and manufacturing. In order to follow my own criteria and to solve the issue, I would probably design some screw caps to cover the holes. I'm not convinced it worth the effort though.
As a fluid dynamics obsessive, designer of multiple dust collection systems, gotta give the nod to your elegant KISS principled plug solution, my compliments.

If I were to improve something it would be regarding the ease of installation . . . once in a lifetime.
What I've inadequately described would require use of drill, tap bit, tap and tap handle. When all you have is a hammer . . . then again, when what you have at hand is more than any sane tinkerer might think imaginable, more simple solutions to such problems would be refinements of the original, tool intensive first take.

As you say, this is once in a (Mac's) lifetime upgrade, so we can probably identify a middle ground. A hangtag bag of appropriate length/gauge hex/phillips headed, self drilling, self tapping sheet metal screws from said Big Box would be more simple, readily available and under $2 in implementation.
 
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-SE40-

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Just googled, and understand
that the 68030 can get up to 70*C ?
Does not have cooling fins?
Would adding a small coolerbody not be helpfull?
 
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retr01

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Just googled, and understand that the 68030 can get up to 70*C ? Does not have cooling fins? Would adding a small coolerbody not be helpfull?

Usually, a low-profile heat sink will do. Apple implemented heat sinks for 68030 as well as 68040. For the '030, it depends on which Apple Mac. The '040 Macs usually will have heatsinks on the CPU. In the '030 and '040 PowerBooks, Apple also added heatsinks to other chips in addition to the CPU.

A heat sink is more likely needed when a higher clock frequency '030 has, especially accelerator cards.

Cheers!
 

-SE40-

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Hi, did not see any heatsink for the 68030 SE on Google. Still fansound can be less and the processor can be cooler, when combined with a heatsink.

cool is good, right?

🍀
 

retr01

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Right. No heatsinks in compact Macs due to convention/air cooling and where the CPU sits and runs at lower clock frequencies. The exception is heatsinks on the PDS accelerator card CPUs since those 030 and 040 run at higher clock frequencies.

And use a Noctua fan! :) (y)

Cheers,
 
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retr01

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Just wondering,….Are there any (public)known daily use 68000-68030 processor temperatures in their various enclosure models?
Not as far as I know or can find. I am sure someone did, but I cannot find data on that. I suspect a nominally normal range with typical daily usage. Intensive calculations over a period probably yielded higher temperatures. Recall that the 68030 works with 68882 FPU while a 68040 has built-in FPU. However, Apple added heat sinks in more narrow spaces such as PowerBooks.
 

Trash80toG4

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A little off topic here, but hard to imagine there being enough headroom for much of a heatsink in the SE?

PowerBooks use a heat spreader, transferring heat to the metal chassis*** or is part of the metal chassis itself as in the Duos. Might be able to have an aluminum spreader laser cut, but no mfr. I know of thought such to be necessary.

PowerCache P33 runs 030 at 50MHz without need of a heat sink in the SE/30

*** maybe sometimes to the metal frame of the KBD, dunno, too sleepy.
 
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alxlab

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It's an interesting question to ask how hot the CPUs in a compact Macintosh are actually running at. The standard model 68000 seem to be rated for 0C - 70C and I'm assuming the 68000 in the Macintosh SE is running within that constraint. Regardless it would be interesting to see an actual temperature reading from the Macintosh SE 68000 when idle and running an intense benchmark or something that push it to it's max.

If any of you are interested in the temperature rating of various CPUs I would recommend https://www.cpu-world.com/CPUs/CPU.html

In general I've seen the 68K CPUs used without a heatsink. It's not saying though that having a heatsink won't have any benefits. Some of the benefits I can think off the top of my head are prolong life of the CPU due to better heat dissipation and better stability if overclocking. I designed this 68040 heatsink clip with regards to that.
 

-SE40-

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These people create all kinds of custom heatpipe solutions….I dont own a SE30,
so cant see what the options are.
It must be possible to solve this matter
in a more modern fasion….😇