My little guide on RGBTOHDMI installed on Classic, Plus, etc.

[Mu0n]

Here are the settings in text form for the SE/30

Mac SE/30:
Geometry:
Setup Mode: normal
H Offset: 176
V Offset: 28
Min H Width: 512
Min V Height: 342
Max H Width: 512
Max V Height: 342
H Pixel Aspect: 2
V Pixel Aspect: 2
FB Size: Normal
FB Bits/Pixel: 8
Clock Frequency: 15667200
Line Length: 704
Clock Tolerance: 5000
Lines per Frame: 370
Sync Type: +H+V
V Sync Type: Auto
Video Type: Progressive

Sampling Menu:
Setup Mode: normal
Sampling Phase: 5 (300 Degrees)
Half Pixel Shift: Off
Clock Multiplier: x6
Calibration Range: Auto
Pixel H Offset: 7
Sync Edge: Trailing
Sync on G/V: Off
Sample Mode: 3 bits per Pixel

and in the palette I had to go invert the colors and choose an appropriate border color that showed as black.

 

[Mu0n]

Here are the pins used on the Mac SE/30 J12 connector, seen from ABOVE the board. Pay close attention, the four corners are marked with the silkscreen around the connector on the logic board.

(sept 8 edit made a better J12 connector (seen from above the logic board) diagram)

 

[Mu0n]

I added a better image of where the cables go into the connector on the Plus which links the logic and analog board (J4 on the analog side); wires are inserted from above the logic board connector

 

[Mu0n]

I published a video explaining how I prefer to connect a RGBtoHDMI to my Mac SE/30 here:

 

[CubeTheory]

Hi, Great post. Just wanted to share my escapades. I built a few RGBtoHDMI's a while back but after recently getting my Classic back from a friend after about 17 years, and fully refurbishing it. I needed a way to test the logic board in isolation from the Analog board, which took some effort to get working!

I came up with this:

Using an Amiga PSU, which I had rebuilt using a Meanwell RPT-60b PSU which outputs +/-12v and +5v (My bench supply only has one output) I made a test harness so I could non-destructively remove the Amiga connector and fit the harness

I just needed to re-flash my RGBtoHDMI CPLD and then using the last distro select the classic profile which I did in isolation, so once all was connected it started straight up. the aspect ratio doesn't look right but based on this thread, I think I'll give it a tweak when I next remove the board.

 

[lundpk]

I am considering doing a presentation of the Mac on its 40th anniversary at our college and wonder if the RGBtoHDMI will work on a restored 512K FatMac that I have in my office. This would make a tie into our projector for the presentation.

 

[Mu0n]

Unless I'm mistaken, the J7 cable between the logic and analog board is pretty much the same in the 512 as the Plus.

https://www.digibarn.com/collections/diagrams/mac-512klogicboard/mac-logic-schematic.jpg

 

[davewongillies]

Just wanted to say thanks for this thread. It was very helpful in getting my Mac Classic II in a Box up and running.

Outputting to an iPad 2 screen which runs at 1024x768. This makes for a crisp 2x integer scale from the Mac Classic II's native resolution.

 

[Genjoke]

I published a video explaining how I prefer to connect a RGBtoHDMI to my Mac SE/30 here:

Hi.

I found a guy selling them here in Brazil. But he got me confused (he’s not an Apple guy) about the version I should buy: digital or analog?

thanks.

 

[CubeTheory]

Hi.

I found a guy selling them here in Brazil. But he got me confused (he’s not an Apple guy) about the version I should buy: digital or analog?

thanks.

The analog version will just be an additional board the plugs in, in between the Pi and the RGBtoHDMI pHat. you don’t need it for this but usually they are removable and are useful if you have other vintage machines with analog RGB outputs.

it is recommended to have the TTL buffer board which, again, would go in between the Pi and the RGBtoHDMI pHat, replacing the analog board, but it is just for protecting the CPLD. I don’t have one and haven’t had any issues, though your mileage may vary

This is an analog board