SE/30 noise in video - where do I look next?

basslinemz

New Tinkerer
Nov 16, 2025
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I'm new to this forum, and fairly new to some aspects of vintage computer repair even though I've used 'em since they weren't vintage. I've dug through these forums and others but not seen an issue quite like the one I'm dealing with.

I've got an SE/30 that, until this past year, I didn't even know worked - I was given it along with several other partial compact Macs by a friend years ago, and they sat in a shed that wasn't terribly watertight, so when I dug them out for a project, there was plenty of surface rust, and the mainboard was a bit crusty looking, but fortunately not battery bombed. After a reasonable cleaning, and wiggling the ROM SIMM a bit, it came to life, and it's got an external video card in it, even!

In the process of making it more presentable, I've swapped the analog board for a spare from an SE that had a good flyback transformer, recapped THAT board, the power supply and the mainboard with kits from Console5, put a new battery in and replaced the HDD (which I managed to get working enough to back up) with a BlueSCSI. It now boots (and chimes) and runs reliably, and for the most part, looks great.

Except there's noise in the video that gets stronger as it warms up - after about ten minutes, it reaches a peak and stays there. I saw it surge with HDD activity while I was working on recovering the files that came with it, but that part isn't in the machine. I've tried replacing the HOT and reflowed the analog and CRT boards, but am unsure where to look next. The caps on the mainboard leaked at least a little, at least judging by how they looked when I removed the old ones, but I don't see much of anything that looks like corrosion beyond all the solder on the board being dull and slightly soft (fuzzy?) looking - no green crud. All of the pads came clean easily and everything looked good to my eyes otherwise. I swapped the CRT board with the one from the SE, and the noise changed a bit but didn't go away. The only consistent thing I can to to reduce the noise is to turn down the brightness - the brighter it is, the stronger the noise is. The pictures attached show this at normal brightness (the noise moves randomly like static) and one turned almost to nothing, edited to be more visible. I also haven't seen any rogue solder or bridged connections, though it's always possible that I missed one.

Would the CRT board be the next thing to investigate, or should I still be looking at the motherboard or somewhere else? I've always been good to hang parts, and now I feel more confident I can solder them, but circuit-level diagnosis is still kinda new to me.

SE30 bright 2.jpg
SE30 very dim.jpg
 

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muse

New Tinkerer
Nov 3, 2025
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This is likely a bad cap on the analog board based on your post. There is a capacitor adjacent to the flyback which has likely started to fail and is leaking.

It might not be obvious from the component side but will be clearly visible after removing it or from the solder side where the electrolyte tends to wick through.

Recap is necessary on all three boards ( logic, analog and psu ).

I used a slightly higher voltage rated electrolytic near the flyback ( 50v ) as I think the original voltage rating is underspeced and that seems to be a common failure in the analog.board.
 

JDW

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Sep 2, 2021
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Welcome to TinkerDifferent!

I've swapped the analog board for a spare from an SE that had a good flyback transformer, recapped THAT [analog] board, the power supply and the mainboard with kits from Console5, put a new battery in and replaced the HDD (which I managed to get working enough to back up) with a BlueSCSI. It now boots (and chimes) and runs reliably, and for the most part, looks great.
With the exception of the floppy drive (which doesn't matter in this case), you clearly have a fully recapped machine.

Not only that, but you also did this...

I've tried replacing the HOT and reflowed the analog and CRT boards, but am unsure where to look next.
By HOT you mean the BU406, correct? If so, great call. Reflowing all the connector joints was also a good call too.

1763515263631.png


Just to be clear, you are citing the problem of little wave-shaped oddities that look like this...

1763514754083.png


QUESTION: You said you swapped the analog board. That made ZERO difference? If so, what about the Yoke Board and its connector? Dirty?
 

ArjenCNX

Tinkerer
Oct 20, 2025
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I'd second that, noise is likely from the analog board, and likely related to capacitors, im not sure if you have swapped out all electrolytics, but if you have not, i suggest you do. also make sure to re-solder the flyback transformer and coils on the board, flybacks and essentially all magnetics vibrate at the switching frequency they are exposed to, this is real high-freq mechanical vibration that will eventually weaken the solder bond so it is standard (best) practice to always re-solder any magnetics part while servicing. Also, your power supply needs the same treatment, it could also be the cause of this fault, for safety reasons you really should re-cap that as well, if that has not happened yet. it seems the high-voltage line that supplies the flyback circuit could be "dirty" (meaning there are significant AC signals on what should be a clean DC supply)
 

muse

New Tinkerer
Nov 3, 2025
15
9
3
It could also be a result of the 4 SMD capacitors around the analog video section on the logic board which havent been replaced yet..

It would be interesting to know which power supply, the ASTEC seems to have more trouble than the Sony. But this results in wavy video swinging back and forth rather than jittery/distorted lines on the screen.