"Spicy O'clock" project has started

alxlab

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Yeah I was thinking of creating something similar to the Radian EZ Snap Clip

https://www.radianheatsinks.com/ez-snap-clip/
1649105726158.png
1649105840651.png


Look like it should be printable on a standard FDM printer. I'm sure I could come up with something to be able to screw in a standard 40mm or 50mm fan.
 

JDW

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Yeah I was thinking of creating something similar to the Radian EZ Snap Clip

https://www.radianheatsinks.com/ez-snap-clip/
View attachment 3953View attachment 3954

Look like it should be printable on a standard FDM printer. I'm sure I could come up with something to be able to screw in a standard 40mm or 50mm fan.
Very interesting! @Kay K.M.Mods is quite adept with his 3D printer, and you can see the new back panel and Spicy mount he made in my video. Perhaps you two should do a joint effort on a heatsink clip! The heatsink shown in my video is a nice one, spanning the full 45mm width of the 040 chip. The only down side to it is that it is aluminum instead of copper. But as you can see in my video, the HEIGHT is important. My 45x45mm heatsink is 10mm tall, so when you put a 40x10mm fan atop that, it's just about the height limit.
 

alxlab

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I actually found a taller 45mm heatsink and but I'm not sure it would give much more surface area that the lower height heatsink. I has less fins and missing the cross cuts. Would only be useful for passive cooling also since the fan won't fit.

IMG_20220404_172047.jpg
 

alxlab

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Yes sir! That is the plan. I'm pretty sure we got the same gold heatsink so it should work with yours once I get the design finalized.

I'll try to figure out how to attach a 50mm afterward. Good 50mm x 50mm x 10mm fans seem to be harder to find though.
 
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alxlab

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Here's the clip. I had to beef up the sides to make it hold tightly. I'll probably modify the clip at some point to be able to screw a 60mm onto it.

IMG_20220406_014651.jpg


Now I'll worry a little less with running my 68040 without a heatsink and be a little more prepared for overclocking.
 

JDW

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Here's the clip. I had to beef up the sides to make it hold tightly. I'll probably modify the clip at some point to be able to screw a 60mm onto it.

View attachment 3996

Now I'll worry a little less with running my 68040 without a heatsink and be a little more prepared for overclocking.
Holy cow, that thing is incredible! Bravo on a job well done!
Will that be a public STL file release or an item you will sell?
I'm eager to give your creation a try with my gold heatsink and some Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut!

When you say "screw a 60mm onto it," do you mean a 60mm fan?
 

alxlab

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The STL will be public on my github once I write up the readme file. I'll also do a seperate post about it with a link to the github in the 3D section of Tinker Different. Licensing will most likely be CC-BY-NC-SA. I will probably be selling the bracket at some point for $5 CAD for just the clip or $10 CAD with a heatsink to help subsidize my development work.

Yeah I meant a 60mm fan. Sometimes my brain leaves out words when I'm writing for some reason. Anyhowwww:

IMG_20220406_101814.jpg


It looks like a 60mm fan would fit in an LC 580/630 and LC 575 and would allows us to screw or bolt the fan to the plastic clip instead of the heatsink. Actually, I could probably use the same 60mm fan mounts for smaller 50mm and 40mm fans with an adapter bracket that would wrap around the smaller fan... 🧠 thinking...
 

JDW

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The STL will be public on my github once I write up the readme file. I'll also do a seperate post about it with a link to the github in the 3D section of Tinker Different. Licensing will most likely be CC-BY-NC-SA. I will probably be selling the bracket at some point for $5 CAD for just the clip or $10 CAD with a heatsink to help subsidize my development work.

Yeah I meant a 60mm fan. Sometimes my brain leaves out words when I'm writing for some reason. Anyhowwww:

View attachment 3999

It looks like a 60mm fan would fit in an LC 580/630 and LC 575 and would allows us to screw or bolt the fan to the plastic clip instead of the heatsink. Actually, I could probably use the same 60mm fan mounts for smaller 50mm and 40mm fans with an adapter bracket that would wrap around the smaller fan... 🧠 thinking...
Again, I am quit impressed with your work on this!

So long as there are quiet 60x10mm fans out there, I don't see an issue with going with that large size. But for the record, Noctua, my quiet fan maker of choice, does not have a 10mm thick version in a 60mm size, and their 25mm would be too thick.


Therefore, one would need to consider what fans out there come close to Noctua in offering the highest RPM speed at the lowest dB noise, and with the lowest vibration. Noctua fans are not only quiet and low vibration, but they also include little rubber pieces around the mounting holes to further mitigate vibrations induced in the mounting hardware.

Voltage is another consideration too. I would recommend a 12V fan over 5V, for use in the Mystic.
 

yock1960

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Mar 24, 2022
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Okay, I performed my 1st (and probably last) ever recap today, on my LC475. The machine still works...this is good! But, I did not expect my overclock performance to drop. I still don't have my MC88196DW80 chips (ordered 2), so perhaps when that is swapped, I'll be able to get back on track. Before the recap, I could get about 39mhz, now I'm at 36.89mhz. There is a caveat, at 39mhz, it would often hang, I would turn on and off a time or two and it would start. Since I have replaced the capacitors, I decided this was unacceptable (plus it wasn't starting after turning off and on), so I cranked it down. Although I didn't keep the setting long, before the recap, when I first installed Spicy, 36.51mhz seemed pretty reliable, so maybe this is just my 'real' limit with the MC88920? Another thing though...not related to Spicy I think, but puzzling nonetheless. Now, at startup, after memory check, the screen comes on, then happy face, then screen goes black again, then comes back on...another happy face...then it boots, or attempts to. This extra black screen never happened before the recap!

I have run Apple Personal Diagnostics, logic board tests pass. Everything else seems okay so far. Another odd thing to me, was that even though I left the PRAM battery in while performing the recap, it lost time and date. Was that because the caps were missing?

Anyway, I'd appreciate any thoughts on my adventure!
 

rikerjoe

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Oct 31, 2021
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Okay, I performed my 1st (and probably last) ever recap today, on my LC475. The machine still works...this is good! But, I did not expect my overclock performance to drop. I still don't have my MC88196DW80 chips (ordered 2), so perhaps when that is swapped, I'll be able to get back on track. Before the recap, I could get about 39mhz, now I'm at 36.89mhz. There is a caveat, at 39mhz, it would often hang, I would turn on and off a time or two and it would start. Since I have replaced the capacitors, I decided this was unacceptable (plus it wasn't starting after turning off and on), so I cranked it down. Although I didn't keep the setting long, before the recap, when I first installed Spicy, 36.51mhz seemed pretty reliable, so maybe this is just my 'real' limit with the MC88920? Another thing though...not related to Spicy I think, but puzzling nonetheless. Now, at startup, after memory check, the screen comes on, then happy face, then screen goes black again, then comes back on...another happy face...then it boots, or attempts to. This extra black screen never happened before the recap!

I have run Apple Personal Diagnostics, logic board tests pass. Everything else seems okay so far. Another odd thing to me, was that even though I left the PRAM battery in while performing the recap, it lost time and date. Was that because the caps were missing?

Anyway, I'd appreciate any thoughts on my adventure!
Congrats on your first recap! I remember my first and it was quite the harrowing experience. What I have learned from that recap and the ones that I’ve done since is a few simple rules:

1) Verify the polarity of the caps. I’ve caught a time or two (or three) where I had the polarity backwards from a recap.
2) Verify no shorts. Check for continuity across your cap using a multimeter and make sure that a solder bridge did not ”magically” appear. Some of the most experienced recap experts such as @Branchus and @Mac84 probably have more astute guidance to offer here.
3) Don’t give up! Check your work and reason out why the problem might be occurring. Sometimes you can see the problem with careful inspection and thought.

All of us have been there. The real pleasure comes from finding a solution!
 
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yock1960

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Congrats on your first recap! I remember my first and it was quite the harrowing experience. What I have learned from that recap and the ones that I’ve done since is a few simple rules:

1) Verify the polarity of the caps. I’ve caught a time or two (or three) where I had the polarity backwards from a recap.
2) Verify no shorts. Check for continuity across your cap using a multimeter and make sure that a solder bridge did not ”magically” appear. Some of the most experienced recap experts such as @Branchus and @Mac84 probably have more astute guidance to offer here.
3) Don’t give up! Check your work and reason out why the problem might be occurring. Sometimes you can see the problem with careful inspection and thought.

All of us have been there. The real pleasure comes from finding a solution!

Thanks! I triple checked polarity, especially after noticing one I had backwards immediately after soldering the 2nd side. I did not check for shorts though, so I'll do that!
 

yock1960

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Mar 24, 2022
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@rikerjoe

You got it! C105 checks shorted...dangit. I felt fortunate to get C36 desoldered and flipped around...and it's much more accessible. Will this have damaged the capacitor? Since I ordered a kit, I have no replacement.
 

yock1960

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Mar 24, 2022
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Well, took the board out and back to the bench and....no more continuity! But I did find a blob of solder over by another cap. Where did that come from?!!! I cleaned and cleaned and never saw it. Anyway, whatever that may have been doing, it acts the same, working correctly to all appearances, but there's still that odd screen glitch at startup.

I guess I'll use it as much as possible between now and when the clock generator replacement gets here and see what happens.

Unless somebody knows what I may have done.
 
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JDW

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Well, took the board out and back to the bench and....no more continuity! But I did find a blob of solder over by another cap. Where did that come from?!!! I cleaned and cleaned and never saw it. Anyway, whatever that may have been doing, it acts the same, working correctly to all appearances, but there's still that odd screen glitch at startup.

I guess I'll use it as much as possible between now and when the clock generator replacement gets here and see what happens.

Unless somebody knows what I may have done.
I don’t have an LC 475 or even schematic of one. But what I do know is that most of these aluminum electrolytic capacitors are placed between +5V and ground or +12V and ground. But if that was the case on the capacitor you say was shorted, that would mean 5 or 12 volts was shorted directly to ground. That usually means something wI’ll fry. But without knowing all the circuitry that shorted capacitor is connected to, I cannot say what, if anything, was harmed during that short circuit.
 

JDW

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Here's the git repo for the 68040 heatsink clip:

https://github.com/alxlab-zone66x/68040_Heatsink_Clip

Enjoys :)
Fantastic work!

I've updated the text description under my video, and I added content to my Pinned Comment as well, linking to your GITHUB page. I can also make mention of it in my next video to ensure no one overlooks it. I will also mention it in the Vintage Apple Macintosh Enthusiasts group on FaceBook.

Also, just to confirm, once it has been clamped down, it's on there very securely, right? Meaning, you can take your motherboard, turn it heatsink side down and shake it, and it won't fall off, correct? (Even with that 60mm fan attached?) I think the answer is "Yes" to my question, but I want to be thorough and confirm, just to be 100% sure.
 

alxlab

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Thank you very much for the references :) It's nice to have my projects being seen and hopefully used by people.

Also, just to confirm, once it has been clamped down, it's on there very securely, right? Meaning, you can take your motherboard, turn it heatsink side down and shake it, and it won't fall off, correct? (Even with that 60mm fan attached?) I think the answer is "Yes" to my question, but I want to be thorough and confirm, just to be 100% sure.

I don't have the 60mm fan attachment part done yet, but with just the clip and heatsink, you can grab the clip and shake the board and the clip will not come off :)
 
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