How would I best go about removing the screen if the screw posts do happen to break off.
Tunnel vision on PB170
- Thread starter Ron's Computer Videos
- Start date
Hey so my powerbook 170 just arrived today, and I was wondering if anyone could confirm or deny if super glue will work on broken plastics.
I just fixed the stand offs with superglue (I've found LocTite to be the best) in my 170 - time will tell how well they hold.
@Stephen shared an interesting video the other day I'll try next time I fix a standoff - use cotton to help keep the glue in place and provide some structure
Plastics epoxy is better suited. Regular superglue will do a bad job. Reinforced superglue (like the video above) would probably work a little better, but I'd just use plastics epoxy or JB weld. If it's powerbook standoffs though, I'd STRONGLY recommend you just 3D print new ones.
I'd say it really depends on the the extent of the damage / brittleness of the plastic, and the location. At one extreme, I've reinforced cracked boss mounts with super glue and so far so good. But at the other I've had to progressively scale up repairs on display hinge mounts over time as those ones in particular get a LOT of stress - all the way from super glue at first, then plastics epoxy, then JB Weld, then finally complete replacement with the 3D printed solution (which so far is working wonderfully).
This stuff is my favorite super glue specifically meant for plastics:
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Where possible I also like to reinforce with epoxy (JB Weld).
I've personally found that anything other than epoxy or JB Weld does not hold if put under stress.
I use a product called Plastruct Plastic Weld on my systems, and it works fine in places that aren't under stress. If a mount for the LCD, or a part inside breaks, I'll use it. I've found it doesn't work well at all on hinge mounts though, due to the stress. Same with superglue. I have not personally tested with reinforcing material though, as described by Eric above.
I use a product called Plastruct Plastic Weld on my systems, and it works fine in places that aren't under stress. If a mount for the LCD, or a part inside breaks, I'll use it. I've found it doesn't work well at all on hinge mounts though, due to the stress. Same with superglue. I have not personally tested with reinforcing material though, as described by Eric above.
Thank you all for your help, I have ended up using a combination of plastic welding, super glue and baking soda, and straight super glue to fix the broken broken parts, and replace any bits that were missing.
My next question is about what type of procedure and setup is best used for the LCD baking session?
Like should I preheat the glass in the oven while the oven is warming up?
Or do I put the glass in once the oven is at 100⁰C? (I just feel that that would be a great way to cause thermal stresses possibly leading to the glass LCD shattering.)
Should I be using a convection oven with the fan on or off?
Should I suspend the panel using wire?
Or should I put it on something like chopsticks?
Or just on a tray?
Or straight on the grate?
Should I but weight on the panel?
Or should I avoid putting something on top of the screen?
Is having the temperature a little bit above 100⁰C, like at 110⁰C or 120⁰C have any negative effects?
Would going an extra hour be OK, so instead of 5hrs I do 6hrs? (I am asking these last two things because I am just not wanting to mess this up and if I make a mistake I don't want everything to be completely ruined.)
Are there any nasty fumes produced?
Lastly, how do I get the screen ribbon cable out of the LCD case?
Please try to answer as soon as you can with all the details that you can. Thank you in advanced.
My next question is about what type of procedure and setup is best used for the LCD baking session?
Like should I preheat the glass in the oven while the oven is warming up?
Or do I put the glass in once the oven is at 100⁰C? (I just feel that that would be a great way to cause thermal stresses possibly leading to the glass LCD shattering.)
Should I be using a convection oven with the fan on or off?
Should I suspend the panel using wire?
Or should I put it on something like chopsticks?
Or just on a tray?
Or straight on the grate?
Should I but weight on the panel?
Or should I avoid putting something on top of the screen?
Is having the temperature a little bit above 100⁰C, like at 110⁰C or 120⁰C have any negative effects?
Would going an extra hour be OK, so instead of 5hrs I do 6hrs? (I am asking these last two things because I am just not wanting to mess this up and if I make a mistake I don't want everything to be completely ruined.)
Are there any nasty fumes produced?
Lastly, how do I get the screen ribbon cable out of the LCD case?
Please try to answer as soon as you can with all the details that you can. Thank you in advanced.
Could you please give me the details on what your setup was for the baking session to be successful? I have listed the details that I am looking for in my previous comment. I would like to know this information as soon as possible because I don't want to risk breaking the panel, and I am needing to get it sorted out soon. I look forward to hearing back from you or anyone else who has had the same level of success as you.
@TheBasement may be able to chime in on this - in his video, it was set to 85*c iirc so that everything remained under boiling point. It looked like it was placed on a tray, in the oven rather than on the shelf bare.
When i've baked GPU's before, i used to suspend them on the tray using rolled up balls of aluminium foil, to allow the air/heat to circulate underneath as well.
When i've baked GPU's before, i used to suspend them on the tray using rolled up balls of aluminium foil, to allow the air/heat to circulate underneath as well.
Ok thank you. In regards to the LCD though, should I also add some weight on top or does it not need it?
I also have a few other details that I would like answered if possible before I go for it and start baking up some yummy LCD.
Can someone please get back to me asap, it is kinda urgent that this is sorted out.
This is where I am currently at with the powerbook 170.
The speaker is also squealing like crazy, along with the power button not working. I am not sure what is going on, and how I can fix it?
Can someone please help me out? As I has stated before this is quite urgent.
This is where I am currently at with the powerbook 170.
The speaker is also squealing like crazy, along with the power button not working. I am not sure what is going on, and how I can fix it?
Can someone please help me out? As I has stated before this is quite urgent.
Hey @Cyclone740 - I appreciate that when things go sideways it feels urgent, but always remember that there is no real urgency. This is a hobby after all, playing with old things... nothing is really at stake. In fact, you're more likely to cause *more* problems if you try to repair something with a sense of urgency; that's when things get broken or - especially if you're working around high voltages - you can get hurt. You may find it helpful in these moments to unplug everything and go do something else for a while. The Powerbook will still be there later.
The symptoms shown and described suggest to me a bad connection through the interconnect board - so just ensure that everything is connected properly. However, it looks like in the photo your display cable is ripped - are you able to verify?
The symptoms shown and described suggest to me a bad connection through the interconnect board - so just ensure that everything is connected properly. However, it looks like in the photo your display cable is ripped - are you able to verify?
Hi thanks for the response, the reason for why it is urgent is that my parents have given me a time frame in which I am to do what I can to it, otherwise I have to pass it on. That is why there is a sense of urgency. Normally yes I would take a break from these things and everything like that, but this time i do have a bit of pressure on me.
Regarding the cable, I can confirm that the cable is intact. Could I ask in the resistor that is on the ribbon cable next to the battery could have something to do with this? Or what other causes for this there might be? The photo only shows the best case scenario right now, because it very rarely gets to this point. Normally either the backlight is the only thing that comes on, or nothing happens at all, also the power button doesn't work at all, even though it is functional.
I see. Those are unusual, interesting circumstances. The ribbon cable / resistor is actually a thermistor, and usually isn't an issue. Let's move this over to the other thread: https://tinkerdifferent.com/threads/urgent-help-needed-for-my-powerbook-170.3088/
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I would say at this point if you do any work on any 100 series laptop you should be prepared to repair broken plastics. Not sure about super glue/baking soda but I used a construction epoxy adhesive with great results.
As for the baking, just remove the glass panel LCD sandwich, pop it on an oven tray (use silicon if you’re worried about the metal), and keep the oven below 100°C.
I cover all this in my video if you’re interested, the link is earlier in this thread.