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Go for it! 👍

So, …… This 0,1mm difference causes it not to work? That could well be a little added solder tin. Just go for it and try it, as that seems to solve this matter. If not, the solder can always be removed again with solder litze/braided copper. 🍀

Change of plan,……. The concept to use and fill the original CRT with resin did optically work very well. (No internal reflections or whasoever) Setback I could only create one piece, and is still a lot of work. As Ive drawn the CRT glass section a while back, the idea came to me to recreate...

Thanks! No rail, at least dont think so…there was a PSU …once….. As its length will be (about) halved, the backend will go. Then a new back panel in alu or pla (3d printed)is made. This, with all needed holes/connectors. Just to make that decent again. 🍀

Short weekend update….. Narrowing the sheetmetal bottomsection to fit the front again. Next getting these sections together again. Then shortening to purpose…. 🍀

Oh, forgot to mention….if you happen to have an old ABS apple lid or something with the original surface,…. Give that to the artist also. He can then check how his paint behaves on the plastic itself. 🍀

Just make a sharp picture, measure the position, and with of the SE logo. Then create a good vector trace, so it can be cut into a vinyl sticker. Then mask the original, or let the airbrush artist recreate the logo‘s by airbrush into a matching color. if stickers on the back ar not damaged...

That souds like the right guy! Provide him with as many pictures as possible, and the right colors…. Exiting times!

You could try and practice first with an old sim?

In that case you could also add some ducttape layers to the back to thicken it up…. one or two layers maybe? Just to see if that solves this issue.

What is the thickness difference exactly? You have a caliper to measure? Why are these thinner? Is contact the real problem, or is the Rom itself defect?

Now you know at least what is causing this fault……✅

Rubber bands are not a very durable solution. Just try some thin strips behind the pcb. It helps to create more presure to the comtacts. Blister package can be very thin 0,1 to 0,3mm or so. Just give it a try.

Hi @retr01, ….. Maybe you have tried it already…..the board works 💯 % with the old original parts? I would try and upgrade step by step, then you know where it goes wrong. As for the thickness difference….. Cant you slide in a strip of plastic to the back. For example from some thin blister...

Ok, thanks. Good to know.

Great job! Maybe a stupid question…. Would this also work in the Classic II ?

🔮666….satanic🔮

Solved! https://tinkerdifferent.com/threads/psu-hack-for-iici-and-other-soft-switch-macs.116/ 👍🍀👍

I like bonuspoints……..😇 But have to disapoint you (me)here. To get a 605 or 475 board at a fair price here is next to impossible. Apple computers where not that much used/widespread overhere. Coincidentally I had luck and found this attic stored LCIII last weekend locally. (as what you / 360...

@retr01 There is no need for bashing here. Thank you! The other solution or option is having the ClassicII board with the cables connected and running internally, escaping from the backside. I think for now - I go with that. The question is if can I get the CD-rom going on System + media...