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If the hard drive has failed it can prevent booting. Try booting without the hard drive connected and see if you get the flashing disk icon

That's a clever solution for the annoying glue on the polarizer --- how does the display compare now the to the other 540c?

@TheBasement does a great job walking through the process:

OK that's a great sign. Are you able to verify that your cables are all connected properly? You say the cable itself is new, so that shouldn't be an issue (provided it's making good contact). You can also try a power reset (instructions found under Troubleshooting)...

Does anyone have recap list for the ADP-17AB PSU? I'm looking specifically for the voltage rating of C303 (the smaller 47µF one on the output side) - the glue was covering the rating and proved impossible to remove without also removing the cap's label... i'm good on the other three.

Is anything else happening? Chime? Have you tried without the HDD connected?

Well, you can simply test it with a multimeter... check if it's providing a solid output. If it is, then you can move on to checking other things. Is any part of the logic board getting hot?

I agree with @3lectr1c - verify your PSU is putting out somewhere between 7.5-7.8V A few other things you can try... - do a power manager reset: unplug the machine and let it rest for a few minutes, then simultaneously press and hold in the two recessed buttons on the back of the machine for...

I see. Those are unusual, interesting circumstances. The ribbon cable / resistor is actually a thermistor, and usually isn't an issue. Let's move this over to the other thread: https://tinkerdifferent.com/threads/urgent-help-needed-for-my-powerbook-170.3088/

Hey @Cyclone740 - I appreciate that when things go sideways it feels urgent, but always remember that there is no real urgency. This is a hobby after all, playing with old things... nothing is really at stake. In fact, you're more likely to cause *more* problems if you try to repair something...

I'd say it really depends on the the extent of the damage / brittleness of the plastic, and the location. At one extreme, I've reinforced cracked boss mounts with super glue and so far so good. But at the other I've had to progressively scale up repairs on display hinge mounts over time as...

This question was asked over at 68kmla, and it seems the angle is 45 degrees on the front (and therefore 135deg on the rear polarizer). However it seems the angles themselves don't matter so much as ensuring a 90deg difference between the front polarizer and the rear. So buying a larger sheet...

Hey @Ron's Computer Videos --- do you happen to remember the measurements and angle of the polarizer? Hoping it's similar to that used on earlier models...

I am absolutely a nitpicker, but only about things that don't actually matter lol

Same. The only reason I have a 190cs is that's the last 68k Mac Apple made... no other reason. Quibble, perhaps: it could be argued the 100 isn't the first PowerBook, as its development started *after* the 140/170, and afaict it didn't hit shelves any earlier than the rest of the line - October...

No doubt, and I think I was sensitive on that point. I 100% agree that if we want lots of people to enjoy this hobby, the on-ramp needs to be pretty chill. Not everyone has the skills or tools or the wherewithal or the interest to tackle a grumpy 100. The post wasn't a rebuke, I hope that was clear.

What? No way! That's cool!

I actually find the Portable more appealing as well, and I consider mine to be more or less the jewel of my collection (also partly because of the epic repair journey I had with it). But among the PB1xx'x... if I had to choose to keep just one, most days I'd choose the 100.

Deadly! Perhaps you can help Ron with his!

At this year's VCF Midwest festival, Ron (@Ron's Computer Videos) and Steve (@Mac84) presented an introduction to PowerBook 100 series collecting. It was informative, thorough, entertaining, tailored well for the audience, and of course doing Father Sculley's good work and spreading the Gospel...