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I don't have a IIc+, but I do know you can write ProDOS images to floppy in System 7, as I've done it for the IIGS many times. (It's been a while though, so the specifics are not front of mind). It does require making sure they're in the correct format, but it's certainly doable. Alternatively...

Bruce of course knows what he's doing, but yeah it's just a board and what steps you take would depend on the state of the board. That said, I don't have any specific experience with Classic AB's so take this fwiw.

If you hair dryer is getting hot enough to melt solder or even plastic, I suggest replacing it. ;) A hair dryer will be fine. You can also dry boards in an oven (obviously at a very low - lowest, even - setting). If you're skittish about heat or the potential for static build up - it's...

You need to take the cage off and really let it soak in something that will break down the grease-turned-glue... there are a few spots that are really, really difficult to access directly, so soaking time is the key. Actually, Epictronics recently refurbed one of these, using WD-40 to break...

Well, you could try a little high-test IPA on a q-tip...

That's new to me too... Too bad the serial number is missing, might help clear it up a little, but it certainly looks like that silk-screening / lettering was added to a 128/512 case.

You know, I was recently wondering about the 5126 because it says '7.5V/2.0A' right on the case... then noticed it says 7.5V/2.0A on the 5120 case. YET the official Portable adapter is only 7.5V/1.5A... and the Apple documentation (and those in the know ever since) stress the use of a 1.5A...

That looks to me like a replacement solution for C1

Looks like a capacitor zip-tied to the rear of the case

I'm installing a composite mod on a Rev 13 board, and having two issues - the image is really dark and some colours are missing. Prior to the mod, on RF, the missing colours issue was present, but at least the intensity / brightness of the image was fine. I've found that I can solve both...

Yes please! Osborne 1 is on my get list because a) I don't have a CP/M machine and, b) early portables are my kink

Sorry to hear it... that's frustrating to be sure. Keep faith as this is a fixable problem. I went back through the thread and didn't notice if this was stated clearly: did you replace the electrolytic capacitors on the analog board? It could be something as simple as that. Did you replace U3...

Oh I dig that black frame!! :love:

Sadly, often a shorted / failing flyback. :( How does C1 or the top-most pin on J1 look? Any darkened / burned-looking areas?

For me, came out to about $25 CDN each - that's the pcb's, components, blue pills, and all shipping and taxes... that's about $18 or $19 USD, so I believe that's probably cheaper (though I don't know the deal you got).

If I didn't need so many, that's the route I'd have gone for sure.

170, check.

140, check. (Noticing the screens in these photos are looking kinda muddy and weird, but they're totally clear in person.)

I was using my PB165 for the THINK C study group, and of course the spinner died. I have a bunch of other PB1xx's with dead drives as well, I figured I should do something about it. Wanting to do a ground-up build myself (instead of buying a bunch of kits), I settled on printing @Androda's V3...

Two possibilities pop to mind here, given the location of the noise: 1. The optoisolator at U3 is bad, which is a common failure point. Replace with a 4N35 or CNY17 - inexpensive and plentiful 2. The SCR at Q12 is bad, a less common failure point but does result in these symptoms (though ticking...