Search results

Of course. Just not necessarily preserved by me. I shall leave that task of saving expensive Lisa’s to you fine gentlemen! As for that beautiful Quadra 840AV though, I truly look forward to preserving one of those awesome Macs one day.

I've never really understood what all the fuss is about when it comes to the Lisa (noting the one in the background above), mainly because it isn't such a practical machine. I do remember seeing one new on display in the computer store when my Dad and I went to pick up our brand new 128K...

Yes, the 3 wires on that schematic marked SV0, SV1 & SV2. However, I myself have never checked the voltages on those wires, so I do not know what the normal level should be according to the Control Panel volume setting. I guess you should check to see if the voltage levels change when you...

Attila, Connect headphones, then try changing the volume and report back if the volume is still the same at 1~7 or if it changes.

You will need to start checking voltages with a digital multi-meter on the audio circuitry to see which components could be bad or which traces may be severed. I will send you a PM with high quality schematic for the 128K motherboard.

The red substance under the anode cap that is applied directly to the CRT is not glossy, but it is "hard" (i.e., not soft or rubbery to the touch). Even so, I've not found a replacement that perfectly matches the original red stuff.

Absolutely!

Backlit Macintosh Portable (because despite it's size, it's a rather attractive looking machine, and the first flat-panel portable Mac from Apple). Quadra 840AV (because it's the fastest 68k Mac) Neither are rare. I've just never gotten around to paying the prices demanded for those machines...

Thanks for sharing your thoughts about the book. Did you read my Amazon review where I cited specific passages of the book that really nail jobs to the wall, putting him in a bad light overall? That was the basis for my book review. So while the book did show changes over time, the overall...

Technically speaking, you could even spread Silicone Grease under the cap to accomplish the same. You can seal leaks in the flyback with silicone grease too. It's just that with grease, it will attract dust and grime.

You have my vote for ready-made cables!

Yes, but ATX (male & female ends) are so much easier overall on the SE & SE/30 because when you make a cable yourself, you not only need the right connectors at both ends, but the right terminals, the right crimper AND the right wire too! I'd go with 18AWG myself. But when you buy wire, it can...

@Stephen, what was your exact procedure for cleanly removing all the old brown glue on the flyback?

But in this case, there is oily black gunk that was all over the place inside, which is clearly something different. Even so, @reallyrandy did show us that he did seem to have cleaned off all the dielectric coating (usually red) that is affixed to the CRT and sits beneath the anode cap...

I really do wish there was an easy solution for the Plus and older like there is for the SE & SE/30, regarding an extension cable. ATX cables are so convenient on the SE series!

That's the first time I've seen anything so horribly coating with an unknown substance. But smokers could have caused that. Very possibly! And with all that horrible cancer-causing gunk on your board, it really would need a good cleaning most of all, above and beyond a recap. @Stephen...

Jeff, Henry has not yet registered here at TinkerDifferent but will at some point. He sent me an excellent response by email which I'm sure he won't mind if I now post for you here. Please keep in mind that what you read below is a 100% copy/paste from Henry's email to me, so he must get all...

I'm not surprised about an oily substance on the Anode cap, but "all over the inside of the case" concerns me, especially if by "case" you mean the removable "back plastic case." Could you please post a photo of that?