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  1. JDW

    Color Classic Mystic Upgrade

    The 2nd video in my ongoing Color Classic series is now public. I posted benchmarks from MacBench 3, Speedometer 4 and Norton System Info 3.5.3. Much more to come!
  2. JDW

    iMac Plus First look, What do you think?

    I voted Yes for the concept, but how would the LCD work, since you wouldn't be able to find an LCD in the native 512 × 342 pixel resolution, and going to a higher resolution would present some undesirable issues? Also, if it has a real working floppy drive inside, it would need to be an old...
  3. JDW

    Too many categories

    I agree with @Kai Robinson in that we need to see how more forum members react over time. For now, I enjoy using this little guy in the upper right corner of each forum in the list... When you collapse forums that are of no interest to you, the sheer number of forums becomes less...
  4. JDW

    iMac (Late-2009) Graphics Card Bake Success Story

    Sorry, I somehow missed seeing this great thread until today! I actually have 8 videos on the topic of the 2009-2011 iMac video card bake and replacement: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLNZ4qjMn-GHoez6_PtpyJfcU_ialTS8bB My first bake lasted 4 months, but I believe that was due to the...
  5. JDW

    Color Classic Crash Chimes

    Just grab a 100% plastic tool or wooden stick and press a bit on the transformer (not the capacitor) to see if that affects the hissing.
  6. JDW

    Macintosh LC 575 “Mystic” logic board recap, install into Color Classic II chassis

    When I spoke to him about that PRAM battery in late October, I had the understanding it was a replacement PRAM battery for the 128K~Plus. We spoke about the diodes used in the early design too, and I had mentioned that because there is already a reverse polarity protection diode on the...
  7. JDW

    Macintosh LC 575 “Mystic” logic board recap, install into Color Classic II chassis

    CR2032's are 225mAh, and therefore would yield 149 days of life on an unplugged LC575 motherboard. Better than LR44 or SR44 batteries, to be sure, but much less life than the stock 800mAh battery.
  8. JDW

    Color Classic Crash Chimes

    If you need to show long and detailed videos, I'd recommend YouTube with the video set to Unlisted, and then post a link. I watched your video and listened to the sound. When you press on the capacitor, is it touching the transformer? If it does touch, are you sure the sound isn't coming from...
  9. JDW

    Macintosh LC 575 “Mystic” logic board recap, install into Color Classic II chassis

    I had pondered a AA or AAA solution, but in my experience, those batteries leak worse than an old SMD cap from the 80's! You really need to keep an eye on those. The stock "cube" batteries don't have a leaking issue. A trio of LR44's are much safer, especially the Anti-leak variants (maybe...
  10. JDW

    Macintosh LC 575 “Mystic” logic board recap, install into Color Classic II chassis

    @Drake , where are those battery mods sold? And if not sold, do you have a photo of the battery side? I'm curious as to what battery you are using. You see, the stock battery is 800mAh. I measured current consumption on the LC575 MB (disconnected) with a 4.5V power supply attached and found...
  11. JDW

    Macintosh LC 575 “Mystic” logic board recap, install into Color Classic II chassis

    The reason I don't whip out an alternative Mac from my closet is I live in Japan and lack the space for the expansive vintage Mac collections of my peers. (Yes, I do get rather envious of you folks at times.) When one has few options for vintage Mac color, one tries to maximize the option he...
  12. JDW

    Macintosh LC 575 “Mystic” logic board recap, install into Color Classic II chassis

    I believe that modding the LC575's MB in that way would indeed cause issues when placed back in the LC575 chassis, but I have not actually done that to verify my assumption. Honestly, I'd rather not mod my 575 motherboard. I prefer to do the Analog Board mod instead to get 640x480.
  13. JDW

    Macintosh LC 575 “Mystic” logic board recap, install into Color Classic II chassis

    My video on this LC575 MB swap process will be out within a few days. The 065 v1.1 enabler is only required for System 7.1. The fiddly ResEdit hack is for System 7.5.5 (no enabler required), but I did not do that because I have other things I need to do in this CC video series. My CC will...
  14. JDW

    Color Classic Crash Chimes

    A hissing capacitor sounds quite interesting indeed. 🐍 Would you mind shooting a short video of that cap (with audio) for us? Obviously, it needs to be replaced along with the other analog board electrolytic capacitors, but I am curious about which capacitor is hissing, as well as the precise...
  15. JDW

    Color Classic Crash Chimes

    Thank you for the kind offer. My 3rd installment in the Color Classic video series will be on the recapping of the LC575 Mystic motherboard, since my stock Color Classic board has already been recapped. And while that may disappoint some, please know that stock 68030 board is painfully slow...
  16. JDW

    Soldering temperature

    Even more consistent than exploding though is the melting of the base. With hot air, you're melting the poor guy's fanny! 🥵
  17. JDW

    Soldering temperature

    Fascinating... and thank you! I am now envisioning a "Play-Doh & Hot Air" special on YouTube! :) Should I ever do that video, you will of course receive the credit, @trag!
  18. JDW

    Soldering temperature

    I see the twisting in that video but not the pushing! :unsure: :) Even so, I'm partial to my Hakko hot tweezers. They aren't for everybody due to price, but I've yet to lift a pad by accident with them.
  19. JDW

    Period-accurate benchmarking tools?

    I would recommend MacBench 3.0 (when it works) because you can then run it on an SE/30 too. If you go with MacBench 4.0, you can't use it on the SE/30. Maybe that doesn't matter to you, but that's my personal rule of thumb. Admittedly, I don't use OS 8 on my vintage 68K Macs, opting for...
  20. JDW

    Soldering temperature

    If you need a soldering "iron" hotter than 350°C, then something is probably wrong. It's too easy to overheat sensitive components when you go to 400°C with an iron (especially solid Tantalum capacitors). Some people do it and have no issues, but 350°C is a good rule of thumb to stick to. I...