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Also, have you looked at your voltages while the board is powered up? You could monitor it on the +5v at the oscillator.

Wow, this is quite an impressively tricky puzzle. It just doesn't seem plausible that you'd have the same problem with the clock crystal across multiple original boards and Reloaded boards. First thing I'd ask myself is, what's the common factor across all of these boards when I test them out...

Nothing like that. It helps the solder 'stick' to the pad and component leg. Solder that you buy already has flux in it but sometimes its not enough. Without flux it would be extremely hard to do any soldering.

C3, C4, C5, C6. The ones arranged in a square shape next to the Sony sound chips. You could start with those but I'd recommend planning to replace them all eventually. If there's any sign of leakage, the responsible caps need to go, and the electrolyte needs to be cleaned up with isopropyl...

Also, my 540c came with the same hard drive that has the same issue with stiction, it even makes exactly the same ‘stuck’ noise as yours. While watching your video I was begging for you to find that all it needed was a tap to get going, and then you did just that!

This is a brilliant effort and I enjoyed your video. I have a PB 180 that I’d like to replace the polariser film on as it got damaged during baking to resolve the tunnelling issue. I hope we can find a method for sticking these down reliably in future .

Interesting - it's similar to my type 2 issue with dashes that build up in columns, but yours are squares and your columns are closer together. I can screenshot those too, but not the type 1 issue with horizontal tearing. Which version of PAL chips do you have at UE6 and UE7? Did you come up...

I've been posting extensively over on 68kmla.org but I wanted to ask here as well, since I know there are a quite a lot of compact Mac enthusiasts who don't frequent the other forum. I've been working to resolve an issue with my SE/30 Reloaded builds and it's become something of a serious...

I was just re-watching the excellent recapping guide by @JDW, on YouTube, for the SE & SE/30 analog board. On mine, C15 isn’t an electrolytic cap. Instead, it looks like this: Is it a film cap? It doesn’t need replacing, does it?

Nice work! How crucial is it to have? One of my SE/30s is missing its shield.

Sorry, reading your posts again I realise you’re not working on a new build board. Some of my advice is probably not relevant (the micro bridge thing in particular).

That shouldn’t happen, I’d try to find out what’s causing this before going further. The correct pattern is the one that appears at the end of the video. I’d suggest inspecting the VRAM chips that are adjacent as they might not be making a good connection. Putting pressure on the PAL could...

UK11 and UK12. There's two of them.

Did you see my edited comment above about the VIA chip?

So you've had the board a while, and it was working previously, and now all of a sudden it doesn't work properly?

Can you make a boot floppy on another Mac with MacTest Pro, and boot off that? I believe there are System 6 versions. Then run all the hardware tests and see if it comes back with anything. If you're convinced the problem is in the RTC area, I'd have a look at the VIA chip which is connected...

If it's not been recapped I'd suggest doing that first.

I've never (personally) seen an RTC chip fail in this way. Actually you can boot System 7.5 (or any system) without an RTC chip installed, you just won't be able to boot off a SCSI drive. You'll have to do more investigation before you can begin to make any conclusions about what's faulty. I...

In what sense does it fail to boot, and why would you suspect the RTC specifically? (As opposed to the numerous other things that could be wrong)

I’d try reflowing the Glue chip.