2025 PowerPC Challenge

[phunguss]

As I waited for my two SSDs to arrive for my PowerMac G5, I decided to take a detour. This is my PowerBook G4 5,8, the late-2005 15-inch model with 2GB of RAM and a 120GB hard drive ... and a non-functioning F7 key and a dead battery, the latter of which you can tell from the photograph. Naturally, the time is off and must be set manually.

View attachment 19816

I'm planning to make this my first dedicated MorphOS machine. I don't know why everyone is obsessed with flashing Linux, Mac OS X, or MorphOS to a USB thumb drive and doing OpenFirmware hackery to get a PowerPC Mac to boot from the thumb drive when just burning the operating system's disk image to a CD or DVD and booting from that is much easier and hassle-free. I get it if your optical drive is dead, but otherwise this is just simpler. I have a stack of CD-R discs and I used one to burn the MorphOS installer to the disc. The burn was successful, despite my PowerBook's optical drive first rejecting the CD and spitting it out after making strained sputtering noises at first. After putting the CD in the second time, the PowerBook accepted the disc and Mac OS X asked what I wanted to do with it, signifying that the CD was accepted. I used an open source program called "SimplyBurns" that's hosted on SourceForge. It works with Tiger and Leopard. A few short minutes later and the burn was successful. The MorphOS installer is just above 400MB in size, so a 700MB CD is more than adequate to store it as a bootable medium. Disk Utility shows that the CD is now mountable and has the MorphOS installer burned to it, so it's time to eject the CD-R and turn the PowerBook off, holding the C key and inserting the CD as the machine turns on.

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Ah, here awaits a beautiful Amiga-like experience! Let's just hope my optical drive doesn't conk out one day.

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I didn't want to install MorphOS just yet. I want an SSD in this once top-of-the-line laptop. 120GB is not plenty, and at a speed of 5400rpm, it's not speedy, either. I have one of those generic IDE-to-mSATA adapters with a 256GB mSATA SSD mounted to it. Here is a photograph of the assembly in progress:

View attachment 19819

After removing the battery, the RAM door, and plenty of different length philips screws, plus the two (I think) T6 torx screws above the keyboard, I opened the laptop body to reveal the rather clean innards. There are three screws remaining; the ones on the metal bracket between the hard drive and the optical drive.

View attachment 19820

The final screw stripped ... Lovely....​

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My current situation is eerily the exact same as this individual on the MacRumors forum: https://forums.macrumors.com/threads/help-i-stripped-a-screw.2250987/. It's my last screw and I need to get this bracket off. I believe after I get the hard drive out, the bracket itself is not needed for my SSD. Hard drives move and vibrate and are susceptible to shock damage, hence the retaining bracket. I could just discard the bracket altogether if and when I get the SSD in there. I've tried the rubber band method, a bigger screw bit, the tape method, and I tried pliers but it was too tight a squeeze to get anything plus the screw is still flush with the bracket. I tried superglue but this glue is at least 15 years old at this point. If I get new superglue, I'll probably retry that method. The last resort I know of is to drill into the screw to destroy it, but that's risky in this example, don't you think? Well, in any case, I am at yet another impediment with my PowerPC Macs. Can't something good happen to me for a change? Also, the PowerBook did not survive the disassembly unscathed. A little bit of plastic perimeter broke off. Observe:

View attachment 19823

I stored the different screws into plastic bags and segregated them based on screw location. Screws belonging to the RAM door go in a separate bag and screws belonging to the battery compartment go in a separate bag, and so on. I was tempted to reassemble the PowerBook and call it quits on the SSD upgrade, but I did not. The PowerBook is still sitting lonely (somewhere else not on my dining room table). Here is my current situation with various tools and other mess strung about:

View attachment 19824

Any help on getting this stripped screw removed is welcomed, please. Thanks in advance.

Drill it out. Turn the laptop so the mobo is vertical, with the drive towards the edge of the table... that way any metal falls down instead of into the motherboard (drill horizontally). Slow speed with a drill bit the size of the screw head, the screws should be soft enough. You just have to remove the head and the bracket should come off, leaving a couple threads you may be able to grab with a pliers once the drive is removed.

Otherwise, if you are not worried about reusing the bracket, just snap it off.

 

[Arbystpossum]

I've been busy this year, so all major things I've doneare software things. After getting my hands on a 30-inch cinema display, I played some Unreal Tournament 2004. Invasion is my favorite mode, and I finally found out how to add more monsters. So here I am, gleefully blasting Doom 3 monsters in UT2K4. I also got iTunes working with the radio stations in OS 10.5, I had to fall back to a really old version.

I'm curious about the 601 processor, it's the only one I don't have. Maybe I'll look into a 6100.

 

[phunguss]

Day 29

I stopped by the Free Geek Twin Cities (Minneapolis) and found this gem: PowerBook 190cs for US$10

Apparently it belonged to Tristan. Any idea how to remove scratches like these?

Otherwise it appears relatively clean. Missing the badges.

Measured the screen and the 190 came with BW 9 inch and the 190cs came with color 10.4 inch. So I am assuming this is a 190cs at this point.

Upon disassembly, further damage was found. Back bezel knurled nuts are ripped out, time for epoxy.

Keyboard sides had the tabs busted off. Found the parts but probably not necessary to glue as these parts stay in while the kb is screwed in.

Motherboard appears very clean. Bottom side.

Top side appears clean. Caps have very minor bulges, should I replace them?

A lot of corrosion on the battery connector. One of the pins is broken off, anyone know what type of copper I should use to try to rebuild this connector?

Parts missing:
-Hard Drive (will replace with CF-to-IDE
-PowerBook 190cs badges (non-USA eBay for about $40)
-Charger (untested for $25)
-Battery (PB5300 are identical)
-Media drive (PB5300 floppy fits)

This may have to be set aside for PPC Challenge 2026. Let me know what you think.

 

[Yoda]

@phunguss That's definitely a cs - the black and white 190 had a different profile on the screen back panel. It's a machine that has been through the extended repair program (the 'AA' on the serial number label) so it likely has had the power jack resoldered and/or reinforced, but that's worth checking just in case, because on this and the 5300s it tends to come loose and cause intermittent or no power. Your photo seems to show the slightly longer pins of the repair program replacement jacks, but the solder can still crack and cause problems.

There was at least one supplier of 3rd party power adapters with the correct sized jack which work well. I can't recall how much I paid for mine, but it was a bit less than the $25 untested unit. The original is a 45w Apple model no M3037 (24v 1.88amp)

I can't help you with the missing 190cs badging, but I do have a wrecked 190 I can probably leverage the badges off if that'll do. It's pretty much unrepairable (lots of broken plastics on the hinges and screen casing) but up until being badly handled by the colleague who broke it, was one of my favourite systems.

 

[phunguss]

@phunguss That's definitely a cs - the black and white 190 had a different profile on the screen back panel. It's a machine that has been through the extended repair program (the 'AA' on the serial number label) so it likely has had the power jack resoldered and/or reinforced, but that's worth checking just in case, because on this and the 5300s it tends to come loose and cause intermittent or no power. Your photo seems to show the slightly longer pins of the repair program replacement jacks, but the solder can still crack and cause problems.

There was at least one supplier of 3rd party power adapters with the correct sized jack which work well. I can't recall how much I paid for mine, but it was a bit less than the $25 untested unit. The original is a 45w Apple model no M3037 (24v 1.88amp)

I can't help you with the missing 190cs badging, but I do have a wrecked 190 I can probably leverage the badges off if that'll do. It's pretty much unrepairable (lots of broken plastics on the hinges and screen casing) but up until being badly handled by the colleague who broke it, was one of my favourite systems.

@Yoda Yes, I would be interested in the 190 badges! I will PM you.

Day 30 (so far)

I started to try to rebuild the pins on the battery connector. I have a copper shield from a laptop power supply that I cut a thin strip from.

Then bent it in roughly a shape I think will work.

Angled view how it will fit (are those caps bulging?)

And from the front. Are those caps bulging, or just pleasantly rotund?

WAIT a minute! I guess I should see if this thing actually powers on before I attempt to repair the battery terminals. I found an appropriate plug and soldered some wires on (I don't have the original psu for the plugs).

I grabbed my PSU I prepped for my DVIator (failure for some reason), it is a 19v laptop psu with a BUC converter on it. I dialed it up to 24v (down from the 28v required for DVIator). And I got a CHIME! Don't mind the two rolls of solder holding down the cpu cooler plate.

Oh happy days! Can't really see any color, but it's just the dead folder icon.

 

[Yoda]

@Yoda Yes, I would be interested in the 190 badges! I will PM you.

Just let me know your mailing address and I'll go in search of a padded envelope. No rush, they're not going anywhere else.

Sadly, the rest of my 190 is not in that good a condition!

Looking at your last photo of the 'dead folder', it reminds me of a 5300cs I have which always first boots to a reversed screen. I don't know what causes that, but a reboot brings it up as normal.

 

[phunguss]

Day 30 (part 2)

Still working on the PowerBook 190cs. I added a CF-to-IDE adapter with a 4GB CF card. Here is a bonus: When you have the 190 motherboard out of the case, the 5300 CD-ROM drive will connect and be useful!

I booted off a Mac OS 7 CD. Oops, this model only supports 7.5.2 to 8.1.

I found an 8.0 cd and that booted fine... but virtual memory was NOT turned on, and 8.0 would not install due to the low 8MB of ram in the machine. Once an OS boots fully, then you can use the contrast button to get out of that negative look.

Since many online forums say the 190 and 5300 memory is interchangeable, I pulled a 32MB card from a 5300c. Nope. The connector seems to be 180 out of phase. So I took another approach. I booted up an iBook G3 500MHz and formatted the 4GB CF card into 4x 1GB partitions. I then copied the two installer CDs onto two of the partitions (7.6.1 and 8.1).

I hoped that the partitions would boot in the 190cs and then allow me to install, but neither would. I restarted the iBook in os9, and was then able to install 8.1 from the partition that I had copied the installer to.

Then I put the CF card back in the 190 and it booted up 8.1 just fine. After it loads, adjust that contrast!

About this Mac.

And I have enough virtual memory to install things.

Trying to install 7.6.1 now.

Hopefully I will get to try to remove the battery connector and replace a couple pins. I built 3 so far (original one on the right, broken off at the flexed corrosion point).

 

[iBookSpeedster88]

So, my SSDs arrived on the 28th. Both are brands that other PowerPC users have in recent years confirmed compatibility with the SATA in the G5 Macs. They are Netac and T-FORCE. Upon deciding which to insert into my PowerMac first, I randomly selected the Netac SSD, which I think is only sold on eBay, so the whole supplier is just operating from an eBay account, and the drives go for really cheap and they give out free discount codes. Normally, this would make any smart shopper skeptical, but PowerPC users are already strapped for options as it is, so my only concern with these obscure drive brands is their longevity. Who knows, since a book shouldn't be judged by its cover, Netac could be a hidden gem. After all, the eBay reviews are majority positive.

Huzzah! The drive is immediately recognized, unlike the OWC SSD, which more PowerPC users after me are now beginning to find out for themselves that it no longer is compatible with any G5 Mac. Let it be known in 2025 that Netac SSDs work with G5 Macs!

Alright, let's clone Sorbet Leopard to the Netac SSD after formatting it in Disk Utility.

Done. Select the Netac SSD as the startup drive in System Preferences. Reboot. Watch the Leopard introduction movie. Create a user account and password. Readjust my resolution settings from 2560x1440 to 1920x1080. Here we go.

Install the "Mountain Leopard" theme included with this custom operating system to get that delicious Mountain Lion look:

Copy over my ~21GB worth of software I'll be installing and set my wallpaper to the best James Bond actor, Roger Moore.

Let's do some experimentation. I have this EDIMAX 802.11n Wi-Fi dongle. I hear that the drivers are actually Universal Binary and could be installed as early as Panther, I think? But it's confirmed to have Leopard compatibility, which is what I'm interested in at the moment. It's recognized in System Profiler and the driver installer .pkg opens and takes me through the installation process.

After rebooting, the app "Wireless Network Utility" gets installed to the Applications folder. I open it but it immediately closes itself. I hate it when certain apps do this. MuCommander 0.9.0 and I think 0.8.9, both versions that require Leopard, do this on Leopard even after installing the necessary Java updates that file manager requires. Version 0.8.5 opens just fine on Tiger. Some Intel-only binary of GIMP also does this on my MacBook 1,1 running 10.6.8 Snow Leopard. In my repertoire of ~450 or so applications, I recall having about a dozen do this where they just open in the dock for a split second and then immediately close, signified by the dock expanding and shrinking by a few pixels before everything returns to the way it was as if I had never double-clicked (or pressing Command + Down Arrow) to open the app.

I also retrieved an alternative download that used a slightly different/older version of the program. No dice. Using the command "sudo fs_usage | grep open" in the Terminal shows me that the app indeed opened, and Console shows me three messages that occurred when the app opened and closed itself. "Crashing" was the wrong terminology used in TextEdit in the following photographs, at least not in the actual software sense. Apps that do this open and immediate closing do not report a crash message prompt.

Just for experimentation, I booted back into 10.5.6 running on the stock Apple Maxtor hard drive and see if the app works from there. I know MacTracker is angered by the "About This Mac" saying "10.5.9" instead of "10.5.8" so maybe this was an unreported case of that happening with "Wireless Network Utility". Reading the changelogs of Mac apps I've installed in times past, software developers have released quick patches for bugs in their software when it gets confused about a higher Mac OS X version number than what they are programmed to expect, which happened probably most often when Tiger updated from 10.4.9 to 10.4.10. Within 10.5.6, no difference was made, so I rebooted back into 10.5.9 on the Netac SSD.

I took out the EDIMAX Wi-Fi dongle and I noticed small print on the backside of it, reporting the model number to be EW-7811Un V2.

Oh...

Version 2 is the one that wouldn't work with PowerPC Macs. The website this was purchased from did not specify if it was V1 or V2. I ended up receiving V2. Bummer, I did not luck out. In the meantime, I just went to purchase a few more different dongles to try out since these ones with specific RealTek and RaLink chipsets have PowerPC drivers for them hosted on the Macintosh Garden and other users on MacRumors have confirmed that theirs works with their Macs, too. Hmm, what could I even repurpose this for? Maybe I'll give it to my MacBook 1,1 that also lacks 802.11n Wi-Fi, if it works there. I think it should.

 

[iBookSpeedster88]

Fast forward to today, it was finally time to resume work on the PowerBook G4. For the past day and a half, I had sat the laptop on a coffee table with a bit superglued to the stripped screwdriver head. This was newly purchased superglue, not the ancient stuff used previously in an earlier post. This superglue method ended up not working for me. The glue wasn't strong enough, still, and the bit just pulled out from the screw head.

It was time for more drastic and destructive methods. Carefully using a power drill with the smallest bit in my garage and a little downward pressure was doing enough damage to the stripped screw that it eventually broke off successfully. A portable vacuum was used to suck up the shards left over from drilling into the screw head. The bracket with its brittle metal, upon pulling on it, got snapped in two in the process.

Remove the orange tape, disconnect the ribbon cable from the motherboard, and lift out the hard drive by the ribbon cable. The drive is now removed and the PowerBook is now nearly ready to be upgraded with an IDE-to-mSATA SSD. Don't worry about this next picture, the leftover debris sitting in the chassis got sucked up, as well, after the photo was taken:

Here is the removed hard drive sitting on my coffee table:

This is where things are at for now. I'm hungry right now and I have things I have to do outside the house today, so I'm leaving this as is until tomorrow. Hopefully the PowerPC Challenge continues into the first week of February like it was hinted at in the first post of this thread by Branchus, because as things are finally shaping up and escalating now with precious progress is being made for both my PowerMac and PowerBook, I do want to reach my "finale" - if I want to call it that and frame this challenge as a theatrical storyline - and end on a high note for you all.

 

[phunguss]

Fast forward to today, it was finally time to resume work on the PowerBook G4. For the past day and a half, I had sat the laptop on a coffee table with a bit superglued to the stripped screwdriver head. This was newly purchased superglue, not the ancient stuff used previously in an earlier post. This superglue method ended up not working for me. The glue wasn't strong enough, still, and the bit just pulled out from the screw head.

View attachment 19885

It was time for more drastic and destructive methods. Carefully using a power drill with the smallest bit in my garage and a little downward pressure was doing enough damage to the stripped screw that it eventually broke off successfully. A portable vacuum was used to suck up the shards left over from drilling into the screw head. The bracket with its brittle metal, upon pulling on it, got snapped in two in the process.

View attachment 19886

Remove the orange tape, disconnect the ribbon cable from the motherboard, and lift out the hard drive by the ribbon cable. The drive is now removed and the PowerBook is now nearly ready to be upgraded with an IDE-to-mSATA SSD. Don't worry about this next picture, the leftover debris sitting in the chassis got sucked up, as well, after the photo was taken:

View attachment 19887

Here is the removed hard drive sitting on my coffee table:

View attachment 19888

This is where things are at for now. I'm hungry right now and I have things I have to do outside the house today, so I'm leaving this as is until tomorrow. Hopefully the PowerPC Challenge continues into the first week of February like it was hinted at in the first post of this thread by Branchus, because as things are finally shaping up and escalating now with precious progress is being made for both my PowerMac and PowerBook, I do want to reach my "finale" - if I want to call it that and frame this challenge as a theatrical storyline - and end on a high note for you all.

Congrats on finally figuring out that G5 SSD issue!

 

[Nycturne]

Huzzah! The drive is immediately recognized, unlike the OWC SSD, which more PowerPC users after me are now beginning to find out for themselves that it no longer is compatible with any G5 Mac. Let it be known in 2025 that Netac SSDs work with G5 Macs!

I'll second that congrats on narrowing down the SSD issue.

Disappointing that OWC's drives aren't as compatible as they probably should be. Very likely I got lucky with my Quicksilver setup not triggering the incompatibility.

 

[ClassicHasClass]

to the best James Bond actor, Roger Moore.

Hear, hear. Sir Roger will always be my favourite Bond (though my favourite Bond movie is Diamonds are Forever, purely because it is easily the weirdest one).

 

[phunguss]

Day 31

I finished installing 7.6 on the PowerBook 190cs.

System info:

I bought another PowerBook G4 15" 1.5GHz off eBay plus delivery for $20 total. Arrived just today. It was listed as "no post to bios" and "water damage and pressure points on the screen."

Screen looks fine except for a green tinge.

I thought I could use some parts for the 1.67GHz one... but they are totally different inside. This one is pretty beat up, but fully functional after I put an SSD into it.
The LVDS of the 1.5 on the left, the LVDS of the 1.67 on the right.

The battery connector looked homemade... strange

And some of the welds on the front have broken free. Time for more epoxy.

And still working on 4x more mini-amps for the Apple Pro Speakers. I didn't have any Gray left, so I tried Natural (sorta clear).

 

[phunguss]

Day 31 (part 2)

It's a Friday night, so I stayed up later than I should... Working on the 190cs battery terminal repair. De-soldered the connector from the motherboard, soaked it in white vinegar for a couple hours with intermittent agitation. Then I bathed it in IPA to cancel the vinegar. on the left is the original, and on the right is my homemade pins. Not perfect, but hopefully close enough.

I then soldered it back onto the motherboard.

Once all my epoxy repairs on the casing are complete, I will reassemble and see if it will power up from a battery.

 

[phunguss]

Day 32

I have been soldering up and completing some amps for my Apple Pro Speakers.

3 complete, 2 to finish yet. How the light shines through on the different colored cases.

I am currently working on creating some controlled molds and forms to hold the epoxy I intend to put on the PowerBook 190cs case and parts. Trying to get all things setup and mix one batch of epoxy and fix about 8 items. More on that in a couple days once it all cures.

 

[iBookSpeedster88]

Yesterday, the SSD (IDE-to-mSATA) was plugged in to the PowerBook while the stock Apple 120GB 5400rpm hard drive gets zipped up into the plastic bag the IDE-to-mSATA adapter was packaged in. For now, that drive will remain in the bag for safe keeping.

Before reassembling, I plugged in a Mighty Mouse to the PowerBook and the PowerBook to an outlet and turned it on, making sure that the laptop was in working order and the SSD was functional/recognized before screwing things back together. My burned copy of MorphOS 3.19 inserted, I read through the installation prompts and such.

There she is, the freshly installed 256GB SSD ready to be used:

MorphOS finished installing and I ejected the CD from the optical drive by holding the mouse button upon startup. Wow! I knew MorphOS was quick, but experiencing it for myself is another thing entirely! It certainly adds to the speed to boot from an SSD. I was unaware that MorphOS could not take advantage of a drive larger than 128 gigabytes, so MorphOS is not using the full 256 gigabytes my SSD has. Maybe I will do a dual-boot configuration, but that would involve installing Mac OS X or Linux first and then MorphOS last, as guides like this one demonstrate: https://dreamolers.binaryriot.org/dualboot.pdf. The "Smart File System", the default file system in MorphOS, cannot create partitions larger than 128GB, which is far less than even FAT32 allows: https://library.morph.zone/Filesystems. I also haven't registered MorphOS yet, so I'm still running in demo mode. Just so everyone is on the same page, MorphOS is commercial software and costs about $70 to purchase. It's also machine-specific, so one license for one machine only.

30 minutes of MorphOS usage had already transpired (the max you're given in demo mode before performance begins throttling itself), so the PowerBook was reassembled after the installation. Success! I'm unsure if I'll have the little plastic bit that broke off from the laptop's outer palm rest perimeter be superglued back in place or not.

 

[phunguss]

Day 33

I spent this morning working on the PowerBook 190cs. Today is an attempt to fix some of the aged plastic and the broken points. The back of the LCD bezel had four failure points. Two of the failure points: I don't think I can repair the lower hook tabs.

The other two failure points are the knurled inserts on the back of the LCD panel. I found some of the pieces and used CA glue to hold them in place so I could epoxy them in. One had so much missing that I had to use a Q-tip to hold the part in while gluing. The missing parts should be filled with epoxy, but I don't want to have to drill out below the nut, I left the Q-tip in place to keep the hole free from epoxy. We will see how well it comes out later.

The keyboard sides both had the screw holes broken off, as well as one of the holes in the hinge cover. CA glued in place, then epoxied over.

The bottom case had two of the three kb mounts broken off and missing. Center one is intact.

TIP: Get yourself one of these "leather hole punch" kits in various sizes. Great for making clean holes in soft materials and cutting rubber feet from sheets of self adhesive rubber/foam.

I used these to cut out shells for the bottom so I did not spread epoxy around too far.

I then used some modelling clay to press into the existing good mount to create some negative space to also hold back the epoxy.

Foam guards and clay buttons in place. Now I can slather on the epoxy and not get it everywhere if it runs.

I used this same method for the missing mount under the trackpad and click-button.

I will let all this cure for a couple days and then clean it up. We will see if it holds when I go to reassemble it. In the mean time, I can still work on other projects (no end in sight).

 

[ClassicHasClass]

That is a nice reconstruction job!

 

[phunguss]

Day 34

I finished soldering up the last of the 5 Mini-Amps I built for my Apple Pro Speakers.

Three white, one black, one natural (semi-clear). They are all a little bit different and unique (random screws, different power plugs, etc).

More soldering. My bodge wire arrived, so I dove into my EEPROM removal errors. I pulled some pads and need to fix that. This is my trace.

This individual board had four pads missing on the top right. I soldered four bodge wires onto the bottom of the socket, then soldered the socket down.

The board with socket attached and four bodge wires.

And after soldering the wires directly to the SI chip.

Close up. I could not get three wires next to each other on the surface, so one soldered up on the shoulder of the chip.

Installed it into my G4 AGP, left the door open, powered it on, held down the option key, and WATCHED for smoke.

Seems ok. Booted and recognized.

Xbench gave similar results to the other working boards.

One more PCI-SATA card left to rescue. EEPROM already programmed, just have to run 3 or 4 bodge wires on that one.

 

[phunguss]

Day 35-36

Let's end this month with a couple failures (or call them redo projects for the future).

First, the PowerBook 190cs epoxy fixes: the epoxy was mixed and applied three days ago. It is still a little gooey like a hard taffy. I was able to remove the clay molds from the bottom but did not want to clean as the epoxy is still soft.

I removed the foam guards from the tops.

And it was soft enough to carve off the mushroom heads.

So, after three days, it should be rock hard. That means the epoxy mix was not 50-50 (hard to mess up when it is a dual tube delivery system), or the epoxy is old and past it's shelf life. I may have to redo them. I think I will give them a couple more days to see if it hardens further.

Second, is my fourth PCI-SATA card (SIL3114). I was maybe a little too eager to add the bodge wires without first verifying all the existing pads. Poor eyesight or just laziness. Looks like I could have way more than three bad ones. I did bodge wires for the three obviously missing ones, but there may be more damaged ones I did not account for.

Three wires added to the socket and soldered to the board.

Installed it in my G4 AGP and I got a boot sound, but no drives found. I am guessing I need more bodge wires. So in the future, I will hot air remove the socket, verify all traces for continuity, then add any remaining bodge wires required. Sad face, but still hopeful!