Code/uf2 is up here now https://github.com/BlueSCSI/BlueSCSI-v2/pull/198 - if you give it a try let me know!
Here's a screenshot from that Github page...
So just to clarify...
Even though it says "BlueSCSI-Pico2-58226df.uf2" firmware can be tested "on any version of BlueSCSI hardware," the performance improvements for Write Speed only occur when you have a Pico 2 board installed, correct?
In other words, most people with a BlueSCSI v2 will have either a Pico or PicoW. But to get the new Write speed improvements, you would need to remove the Pico or PicoW and solder in a Pico 2, correct?
If so, based on what I am reading here, there won't be a Pico2W until the end of 2024.
So just to clarify...
Even though it says "BlueSCSI-Pico2-58226df.uf2" firmware can be tested "on any version of BlueSCSI hardware," the performance improvements for Write Speed only occur when you have a Pico 2 board installed, correct?
In other words, most people with a BlueSCSI v2 will have either a Pico or PicoW. But to get the new Write speed improvements, you would need to remove the Pico or PicoW and solder in a Pico 2, correct?
If so, based on what I am reading here, there won't be a Pico2W until the end of 2024.
I know, but you know me. I love it when things are plainly stated on a grammar school level. That's really what my entire YouTube channel is about. Saying things in a more detailed yet plain way so even a true nincompoop like me can understand it!Any version of BlueSCSI hardware (with a Pico2 (which I thought was implied as it's a firmware for the Pico 2))
Don't do that, everyone who I see try to remove a Pico destroys the board. Get a kit or build some of your own boards, put a socket on it.
Being the cheapest man alive, I did manage to remove my Pico boards and replace them with Pico W boards on the two BlueSCSI v2 hardware units that I have. They appear to be working fine. But I will admit that it took a lot of time and great care with Hakko FR-301 desoldering gun to achieve it. So advising others to just buy a new kit is probably best. I agree that you avoid both trouble and hassle that way.
If you do plan to replace the Pico with a Pico 2, my two cents is that you should not be desoldering from the bottom of the BlueSCSI PCB.
If your board has pin headers holding the Pico in place, then desolder the Pico from the top only. As Eric mentions, it's very easy to damage the BlueSCSI PCB when desoldering. The Pico's pad holes seem to be more robust and hold up better against a desoldering tool.
If your board has pin headers holding the Pico in place, then desolder the Pico from the top only. As Eric mentions, it's very easy to damage the BlueSCSI PCB when desoldering. The Pico's pad holes seem to be more robust and hold up better against a desoldering tool.
Another big new release this month - https://github.com/BlueSCSI/BlueSCSI-v2/releases/tag/v2024.10.26