Yes I also greased these, everything in there. Thank you for the video, I have never seen it working.
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Hacking the Kodak Reels 8mm Film Digitizer (New Thread)
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My gears teeths was totaly dry. And I refer to the gearwheel shown on the movie I uploaded. Did You grease this teeths?
Hi, I have a Kodak Reels european variant with serial that doesn't match any firmware type and apparently it's D, because flashing anything else than stock D firmware makes is unusable.
hi all,
new member here, looking to use updated firmware on a Reels unit I picked up off Ebay.
there was a posting last year on the subject of the power supply - with a burned out component (8 pin, surface mount), looking for any intel on the identity of the component.
the Spares or Repair unit I have was dead - not even a hint of powering up - and although the power board didn't have any signs of damage, when probing with a multimeter between pins 1 and 2 with 12 v in the barrel (and nothing else connected), I slipped and released magic smoke. I suspect it was already mostly dead, but I certainly finished it off.
does anyone have any insight as to what this component is? it's marked BMEAF, like the other post - another option (a reply) showed a BOG0B marking.
I'd really like to get this device working - I've got a bunch of old super 8 to transfer, and would quite like to shoot some new movies !
thanks in advance
Nick
new member here, looking to use updated firmware on a Reels unit I picked up off Ebay.
there was a posting last year on the subject of the power supply - with a burned out component (8 pin, surface mount), looking for any intel on the identity of the component.
the Spares or Repair unit I have was dead - not even a hint of powering up - and although the power board didn't have any signs of damage, when probing with a multimeter between pins 1 and 2 with 12 v in the barrel (and nothing else connected), I slipped and released magic smoke. I suspect it was already mostly dead, but I certainly finished it off.
does anyone have any insight as to what this component is? it's marked BMEAF, like the other post - another option (a reply) showed a BOG0B marking.
I'd really like to get this device working - I've got a bunch of old super 8 to transfer, and would quite like to shoot some new movies !
thanks in advance
Nick
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"Matead" indicated in his post 485 in the original thread that "The chip is in fact a LSP5523-R8A."
Digikey in the US has them for 77 cents.
thanks for the pointer - RS in the UK had the IC for a similar price.
i have just replaced the IC and now have signs of life - the power light comes on and i have some motor activity during startup - if i press ok after the startup process seems to finish (motor tests), the lamp comes on too.
The screen, although the backlight comes on does not display anything and pressing ok again in record mode (lamp on) does nothing. Any suggestions? I haven't yet wired in a serial port on the board, but i figure that a next step.
I've tried A, B and C origial firmware from Mac84, with no difference in the display. the barcode on the bottom is E3124148BK00636 - had to scan that as it's a bit scuffed - likely a B unit.
any suggestions on next steps would be great!
I have a new Kodak Reels serial H28251488k00076. Which firmware is it recommended I flash? I am attempting to bring the framerate to match the super8 films I am attempting to digitize and would really like some picture adjustment ability however I do not really want to go down the hardware modification road just yet. Thanking you in advance.
Appreciate your reply, I will keep an eye on the thread for any developments. Thank you for your continued efforts in this space.
Finally have the full suite of mods installed on my machine.
Smooth Rolling Film Pulleys
I did the pulley mod, I already had some random slippery maybe nylon spacers in ~24mm length so I just cut them in half to about 10mm spacers when I was done.
The washers were 3D printed in 0.5mm increments up to 5mm. [Attached to this post.] I used a 0.5mm washer on the outside, then the spacer, and finally whatever sized washer on the inside to mostly fill the shaft to the shoulder, but not quite, to ensure free rolling.
The hardest part is holding this all to put the screw back in on the backside. So, I also made a custom 1/4" drive or 1/2" hex socket handheld tool to hold the posts steady for me. [Attached to this post.]
SD Card Relocation
As I had briefly alluded to last month I was working on a relocation kit for the SD card. That is now complete.
On the back half of the unit I placed the existing SD card slot enlargement template.
Drill the holes, trace and cut the slot.
Two #4 x 1/2" sheet metal pan head screws secures the new cover.
Locate a good spot on the front for the new SD slot:
Drill and cut.
Mount the SD slot to the mounting board with M1.7 screws.
Using #4 or similar screws, run them through the faceplate and body pulling in the SD card holder. Note in this final design the metal SD card slot will sit more flush with the face of the existing Reels housing instead of being more inset.
And we're done.
Note that this SD card relocation uses updated files. I have added those to my original post for the SD relocation.
Smooth Rolling Film Pulleys
I did the pulley mod, I already had some random slippery maybe nylon spacers in ~24mm length so I just cut them in half to about 10mm spacers when I was done.
The washers were 3D printed in 0.5mm increments up to 5mm. [Attached to this post.] I used a 0.5mm washer on the outside, then the spacer, and finally whatever sized washer on the inside to mostly fill the shaft to the shoulder, but not quite, to ensure free rolling.
The hardest part is holding this all to put the screw back in on the backside. So, I also made a custom 1/4" drive or 1/2" hex socket handheld tool to hold the posts steady for me. [Attached to this post.]
SD Card Relocation
As I had briefly alluded to last month I was working on a relocation kit for the SD card. That is now complete.
On the back half of the unit I placed the existing SD card slot enlargement template.
Drill the holes, trace and cut the slot.
Two #4 x 1/2" sheet metal pan head screws secures the new cover.
Locate a good spot on the front for the new SD slot:
Drill and cut.
Mount the SD slot to the mounting board with M1.7 screws.
Using #4 or similar screws, run them through the faceplate and body pulling in the SD card holder. Note in this final design the metal SD card slot will sit more flush with the face of the existing Reels housing instead of being more inset.
And we're done.
Note that this SD card relocation uses updated files. I have added those to my original post for the SD relocation.
Attachments
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