MacEffects Appreciation Post

[JDW]

Will JLC print the knob in resin?

Yes. Here is your "Mac_SE_Brightness_Knob_Combined.stl"...

Until now, I've only had things printed in JLC Black Resin. Lots of Resin choices, but none are as durable as PLA, I don't think. So for example, if that inner piece (with split down the middle) is supposed to flex a bit, I'm not sure how Resin would react to that. Nylon would be a non-issue.

And when you choose "FDM" you get that infuriating "minimum build size" warning that prevents you from proceeding...

To try that yourself, just go here (I had to login first though)...

Online 3D Printing Instant Quote - JLC3DP

Custom 3D Printed Parts from $1.00, upload your 3D models to get an instant 3D Printing Quote for SLA, MJF, SLM, FDM, SLS Printing.

jlc3dp.com

 

[caver01]

Interesting. I have never used one of these services, but I suppose you get good at them like anything else the more you use them. Also, I have not held a object printed in resin as far as I know. I had no idea they can be weak and that is a concern. That’s a good insight for this part. That split post is obviously engineered to flex a tiny bit so it has a friction fit on the potentiometer. I don’t recall it being extra tight when I first used it several years ago, but it is designed to be a match to the original dimensions. The split is there to prevent it from breaking, but that assumes it can flex a little at the attached end.

 

[caver01]

And when you choose "FDM" you get that infuriating "minimum build size" warning

I wonder, what would happen if you had a built-in brim? I could easily add a thin “disc” to the part that you would just bend right off the edge once you receive it. That would make it bigger than 3x3 which might let you work past the warning.

For the split post, you could either try the combined version and let them figure out supports for it, or we could do another built in brim for it at 3.5x3.5 diameter. You cut that off and a little sanding on the tip helps guide it into the hole inside the knob anyway.

Just a thought. You could also put all of the parts on a thin raft to get the combined print bigger than the minimum pretty easily. Ironically, that’s returning to the idea of multiple parts in one file, but since there is material joining them, I don’t see how they can suggest it’s an issue. You just have a quarter mm plane at the base of your “object”!


Attached a zip with all the options

 

[caver01]

I used your link and uploaded the brim version of the post only. I could select FDM, PLA without any size limit warnings. It did suggest that I had “thin walls” which is obviously referring to the .25mm brim, but you can check a box to accept the risk of deformation. I even opened a chat with them. I dunno how much of my conversation was AI, but tried to explain that my part was small, that I included a support raft at only a quarter mm which is less than their “small column design” spec (2-4mm base). and was that OK? Their answer was that if I am willing to accept the risk(s) they generally try to print my item. Hey, it’s worth a shot!

 

[caver01]

I suppose we have now transformed this thread into a 3d printing discussion. . . but it will soon return to the clear case—I promise!

Give this a try using the two-in-one file in my zip:

 

[wottle]

Will JLC print the knob in resin? The only reason my model for the knob is two parts is to eliminate overhang issues for FDM, although a careful placement of supports might be fine. A resin knob would be ideal, but you’d want to use a combined knob-post version of the model. I just added that to my thingiverse item.

Given the option is there to use an external pot, I would ABSOLUTELY want to do that! Mounting may be tricky though. Once you have the pot in hand, you can probably fabricate something out of a strip of aluminum bent into position from a nearby chassis screw to get the knob into the front case hole. A 3D printed ”pot holder” would be nice for that!

I have a clear resin version on the way. I combined your two parts because they seem to be able to produce complex parts that normally would require tons of support on FDM printers. It should be here this weekend or early next week and I'll post the results.

 

[caver01]

I just printed and attached my desk scratch proof feet. Wow were they hard to attach. The fit is good, but angling a circle through a sharp metal hole was probably hanging up on burrs from my brim. I think I will modify my version to be just a tapered tube since it fits so tightly. I won’t reprint since I got them:


The actual foot overhange converted to 45-degrees works fine.
Tolerance with the existing SE/30 back shell are tight though. I had to set the RF shield aside and even then it was very tight. I dunno if it was side-to-side or bottom. Maybe my chassis is not perfectly straight. I may have bent it out a bit during logic board repair for all the times I had to slide it in and out.

 

[JDW]

I suppose we have now transformed this thread into a 3d printing discussion. . .

This thread seems to have been 3D printing focused since Post #6.
But for a very logical reason. The topic of the CLEAR CASE from MacEffects naturally leads everyone to ponder the important bits which need to be made clear, such as the brightness knob...



And that brightness knob also pertains to the @zigzagjoe LCD Retrofit Kit. Doesn't need to be clear for the LCD Kit if you use the stock SE/30 case, and it does not even need to be 3D Printed at all if you use your existing knob. But if you want to retain your old Analog Board in complete condition, you would need a 3D Printed Brightness Knob (what we've been talking about of late), and also a 3D Printed Fan Mount too so you can mount a Noctua NF-A6x25 fan in it. (See also Instructions & Screws and the Forum writeup.)

But in terms of a CLEAR BRIGHTNESS KNOB, the photo above has a semi-transparent appearance similar to what I've had printed at JLC3DP in what they call "Translucent" 8001 Resin. It's foggy and not 100% clear like a MacEffects SE Clear Case. However, you can also order "Transparent" 8001 Resin prints...

See 32:56 in my video here to see JLC Translucent vs. Transparent.

But this brings us back to the topic of the tiny center piece with a split in the middle, which grabs onto the shaft of the Potentiometer. Will any of the JLC Resin offerings work without cracking? The answer will depend on how much that little center piece (with split in middle) FLEXES when the POT shaft is inserted into it. I know Nylon wouldn't break, but Nylon may actually be too flexible to make a good of the POT shaft!

It's very kind of @caver01 to have made the "Two in One" STL to get around JLC's frustrating minimum size requirement... FANTASTIC, in fact! But below are my observations about that.

OBSERVATION #1
The only transparent choice you have for FDM printing is TPU Translucent, but TPU is very rubbery and flexible, as far as I know (I've never tried it), and therefore I don't see how it would be suitable for a brightness knob (or would it?)...

OBSERVATION #2
It would seem to me that ABS would be stronger and more durable over time than PLA of the other FDM plastic options, and if that "guess" on my part is true, then you only have BLACK or WHITE as color options...

So I would love to hear discussion about what I said above, and then I can decide what to print for myself at JLC3DP.

And in regards to the Desk Saver Feet (to allow you to sit an SE or SE/30 with plastic case back OFF on your desk without worry of scratches, in what way is the new overhange converted to 45° version superior to the original? I printed the original in Nylon and had no issues with it in terms of getting the plastic SE/30 case-back on, but I will admit that I leave the metal shield off...

 

[caver01]

I am familiar with clear TPU. I had Wermy’s MintyPi hand-held arcade system (made to fit in an Altoids tin—it was pretty nifty) that you slipped into a clear TPU case. I am confident clear TPU comes in different hardnesses, but that slip case I had was flexible. It would not be my first choice for a brightness knob, but it could actually work fine I suppose.

For me, the concern about the feet was that FDM printng is often better and easier with parts designed for that process. Supports are not always an issue, but for me, printing in Taulman T-Glase filament I thought it best to avoid overhangs. The part that goes over the actual bottom edge—the feet themselves—had full overhangs in the original design. Overhangs and dealing with them on a sensitive FDM fliament like clear T-Glase was something I wanted to avoid. Since it was easy enough to remix the design and transform the offending areas into 45-degree slopes without changing the functionality, that’s what I did. I hope others appreciate that.

When you are printing yourself, you perhaps enjoy certain flexibilities, but you also get to make design choices. I don’t print in nylon (don’t have any) and who knows if JLC had to deal with additional cleanup before they sent the successful parts to you. For me though, it was not worth the hassle when I am adept with TinkerCAD. Shortest solution for me I suppose.

Glad you like the knob though. I am really curious what wottle will say about his resin version in terms of strength. T-Glase FDM is not clear beyond a layer or two, so resin is the way to go aesthetically. I hope it works.

 

[JDW]

This is what I have in my JLC3DP Cart right now...

1) Resin Printing (no brim needed): Resin is more brittle and less forgiving when it comes to plastic flexing, but this print will provide a 100% transparent brightness knob.

2) FDM printing (brim needed to satisfy their min. size requirement): Nylon reinforced with Carbon Fiber (should prove to be very durable and yield a very firm part too):

3) FDM printing (brim needed to satisfy their min. size requirement): TPU can be printed in Translucent. It's rubbery and very flexible, but I really have no idea how well it holds its shape. Will it deform when pressed hard like a piece of rubber? I don't know, hence the need for this print to find out.

By printing in all 3 above, I think I can then find out which is best. Hopefully one of the two transparent prints will suffice because that would help MacEffects Clear Case owners who also want to print at JLC. However, with tariff stupidity harming our hobby, I wonder how many in the USA will even be able to buy from JLC or PCBWay now days. :-( (For me in Japan, and for every country other than the USA, it's a non-issue.)

 

[wottle]

This is what I have in my JLC3DP Cart right now...

1) Resin Printing (no brim needed): Resin is more brittle and less forgiving when it comes to plastic flexing, but this print will provide a 100% transparent brightness knob.
View attachment 22231


2) FDM printing (brim needed to satisfy their min. size requirement): Nylon reinforced with Carbon Fiber (should prove to be very durable and yield a very firm part too):
View attachment 22232


3) FDM printing (brim needed to satisfy their min. size requirement): TPU can be printed in Translucent. It's rubbery and very flexible, but I really have no idea how well it holds its shape. Will it deform when pressed hard like a piece of rubber? I don't know, hence the need for this print to find out.
View attachment 22233

By printing in all 3 above, I think I can then find out which is best. Hopefully one of the two transparent prints will suffice because that would help MacEffects Clear Case owners who also want to print at JLC. However, with tariff stupidity harming our hobby, I wonder how many in the USA will even be able to buy from JLC or PCBWay now days. :-( (For me in Japan, and for every country other than the USA, it's a non-issue.)

If you want to wait a couple of days to place that order, I can give a report on the resin knob. Mine might be arriving today. For some reason, my knob order got held up a bit longer in shipping.

However, look what did arrive today!



This is definitely my biggest / thickest print in transparent resin, but I think it turned out pretty good. I think the oil coating that makes it fully transparent didn't get applied well within the recessed area where the blueSCSI will go, so there's a frosted effect, but I think that will still look OK when fully installed. Looking forward to swapping it out, but will probably wait until the knob comes in to minimize the number of times I'm re-assembling the case to avoid scratches.

And here with another BlueSCSI v2 installed:

 

[Markintosh]

definitely interested in 2 clear adjustment knobs!

I’d like to order 3-please!

 

[Markintosh]

I’d like to order 3-please!

Hopefully I have not missed the order. Please let me know how I can reserve 3 clear knobs. Thank you!!

-Mark

 

[caver01]

I’m pretty sure the group buy offer on the knobs was canceled due to excessive US shipping.

 

[Markintosh]

I’m pretty sure the group buy offer on the knobs was canceled due to excessive US shipping.

Okay-thank you.

 

[wottle]

I’m pretty sure the group buy offer on the knobs was canceled due to excessive US shipping.

I think I may still be able to do it for a reasonable cost. I'll mainly wanted to wait to see if the fit works before ordering more.

Right now, if the part I merged works, I can order 12 and still get the cheaper <$4 shipping. The total for 12 would be a bit under $3 per knob, shipped to me. So I think it would be $3 each plus the additional shipping and packaging to each person.

Right now, I have the following people in the US interested:

Who​	QTY
@tom_B	2
@Markintosh	3
@Garrett	1
@This Does Not Compute	1
@wottle	1

So, with the 2 I have arriving soon, I will probably order a batch of 12 to have some for others if needed.

Also, one thing I've found with JLCPCB is that they can be strict with items with the Apple logo on them, but if you do get one to pass approval, the model is not required to go through approval again, so you can print them again without issue. I got the standard G5431 top piece with the real Apple logo and was able to re-print. My original had a screw post break off. I used the "reorder" feature in JLC3DP to get another and it never went into the review process. So, maybe worth trying to order an item with the Apple logo hoping it makes it through the review process.

 

[Markintosh]

I think I may still be able to do it for a reasonable cost. I'll mainly wanted to wait to see if the fit works before ordering more.

Right now, if the part I merged works, I can order 12 and still get the cheaper <$4 shipping. The total for 12 would be a bit under $3 per knob, shipped to me. So I think it would be $3 each plus the additional shipping and packaging to each person.

Right now, I have the following people in the US interested:

Who​	QTY
@tom_B	2
@Markintosh	3
@Garrett	1
@This Does Not Compute	1
@wottle	1

So, with the 2 I have arriving soon, I will probably order a batch of 12 to have some for others if needed.

Also, one thing I've found with JLCPCB is that they can be strict with items with the Apple logo on them, but if you do get one to pass approval, the model is not required to go through approval again, so you can print them again without issue. I got the standard G5431 top piece with the real Apple logo and was able to re-print. My original had a screw post break off. I used the "reorder" feature in JLC3DP to get another and it never went into the review process. So, maybe worth trying to order an item with the Apple logo hoping it makes it through the review process.

That’s great News! If more people want them-you can knock me down to two-so they can get one.

 

[wottle]

That’s great News! If more people want them-you can knock me down to two-so they can get one.

We're only at 8 at the moment, and if my first 2 work out, I'll have 14, so we should be fine.

 

[caver01]

I will probably order a batch of 12

I definitely want one! Have since the first mention.
You might want to use my new combined file, as I upped the sides count as part of the refresh:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5195646/files

 

[JDW]

If you want to wait a couple of days to place that order, I can give a report on the resin knob. Mine might be arriving today.

I have my JLC order on hold, so I look forward to hearing your feedback. Thanks!