There is original Version C firmware linked in the lookup tool page from the first post, in the path "Option 3 - Original Firmware for C/Kodak FW for H2324148BK Series". Also, I posted the FW I found on my C-device in post #511. They are different, maybe based on the region the device was sold. Mine type ends with "EU", probably bc I bought it at a German vendor.
Modding the Kodak Reels 8mm Film Digitizer (Firmware Hack)
- Thread starter Mac84
- Start date
I have had such skipping and sounds on film that shrunk over the decades and doesn't align well with the advancing mechanism. Not sure that it is a defect in the Kodak.
CDenhart
Thank you for trying to help me. I've tried the firmware from the link before. Some didn't work and left only red spots on the screen. Some worked just like yours, but they all had the same defect. The opening image was different from my original. So the way back to the seller is closed and I won't try it again.TheFage
I noticed that some of the film was twisted, probably because it was cut incorrectly. Holding the door slightly open helped a little. The film went smoother. I'll try putting softer springs under the pressure plates, that might help. Someone mentioned it here already.I’ve read the entire thread, and I want to thank all the contributors who worked on modifying the scanner. Honestly, you guys are legends.
I had a question regarding the choice of the 12 mm lens. Was that a deliberate optical decision, or more like “that’s what I had on hand, I tested it and it worked”? I tried running some calculations on my end to see if using an 8 mm lens, for example, could make it possible to avoid modifying the lens mount and do a direct replacement instead.
ex : https://www.edmundoptics.com/p/10mm-fl-f25-blue-series-m12-mu-videotrade-imaging-lens/15120/
Has anyone already tested other solutions?
Thanks to all of you!
I had a question regarding the choice of the 12 mm lens. Was that a deliberate optical decision, or more like “that’s what I had on hand, I tested it and it worked”? I tried running some calculations on my end to see if using an 8 mm lens, for example, could make it possible to avoid modifying the lens mount and do a direct replacement instead.
ex : https://www.edmundoptics.com/p/10mm-fl-f25-blue-series-m12-mu-videotrade-imaging-lens/15120/
Has anyone already tested other solutions?
Thanks to all of you!
Hello 0dan0, can you please tell me the code of the new screws for the new height?
I've ordered the 3D Lens spacer. I guess they have to be 5+7 long, but I have no clue about the pitch and depth of the screw threads. Thank you.
I never ordered additional screws. I just use two on the lower level, and two on the upper.
I tried about 10 lenses, mostly cheap 12-16mm lenses, and optically the this range would provide a better crop. However, all the other lenses failed to achieve a near focus. So what is needed is a macro lens, designed for a short focus distance. Macro lens are generally wider, a 12mm macro in the M12 format appears to be rare, although Scorpion has some 16mm macros that may also work.
Sadly Kodak no longer has any firmware updates on their website.
This is where the original serial number matrix / data was pulled from to estimate the version numbers. Without more information the crude lookup tool I made cannot be updated... unless someone decodes the serial numbers further, etc.A lot of these units have very poor hardware inside. I had one that was 1 month old where the motor died. They are cheaply made and you may have gotten a lemon. If it's still within the return or warranty period, I'd consider those options.
Try removing the take-up reel and seeing if that removes the problem. A lot of Reels/Wolverine users have used plastic containers to collect the film in, as the tension from the take-up reel can cause issues or even tearing of the film.
The firmware won't change the issue, but "Option 3" linked here has the original FW file for "C" model units. You can use my lookup tool for more information.
Edit: Sorry, I didn't see your reply above.
hi,
I was considering returning it, that's why I was looking for the original firmware. I've tried probably all the ones here, but none of them have the same start screen. So I ruled out this option.
As someone else wrote here, I tried polishing the film pressure plates and loosened the screws holding them about 1/4 turn. This reduced friction and the film jumps a lot less. The picture also shows the printed SuperContrast, which is available for download from "0dan0".
The take-up reel has little power. The film is quite loose on it, so that won't cause the jumps.
Of all the firmware versions here, I can't decide whether to use 5.8 or the latest 6.6. Both pictures are with the basic settings.
I was considering returning it, that's why I was looking for the original firmware. I've tried probably all the ones here, but none of them have the same start screen. So I ruled out this option.
As someone else wrote here, I tried polishing the film pressure plates and loosened the screws holding them about 1/4 turn. This reduced friction and the film jumps a lot less. The picture also shows the printed SuperContrast, which is available for download from "0dan0".
The take-up reel has little power. The film is quite loose on it, so that won't cause the jumps.
Of all the firmware versions here, I can't decide whether to use 5.8 or the latest 6.6. Both pictures are with the basic settings.
Attachments
6.6 has a user controllable white-balance added to the menu, so you can set the look more as you need (5.8 was a fixed WB with aggressive red gain 1.75,1,1.)