I have installed the 6.8 firmware, there is less jitter but still a lot at the end of the reel. Now I also get weird digital horizontal stripes sometimes in the picture. What could that be? Thanks for all the work!
Modding the Kodak Reels 8mm Film Digitizer (Firmware Hack)
- Thread starter Mac84
- Start date
There is no difference in sound (I know the sound you mention). It's always in the last quarter of the reel. Maybe my kodak is just crappy.
With larger reels, the histogram disappears at some point, and horizontal lines shows up.
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Yes, when? Look at the encoded file, and at what frame or minutes and second offset does it occur?
Hello all,
I have a lot of reading up to do. I've read part of this thread and joined.
I've ordered a Kodak Reels from Amazon. It should be here tomorrow.
I kind of want to replace the lens after seeing some test footage on YouTube. I don't know if there are any appropriate lenses stateside that will work. With the new tariffs and taxes on oversea goods here in the US, it might make it cost-prohibitive to order some lenses linked in videos, etc.
Thanks to everyone for your efforts to improve a budget machine. I can't wait to give it a go.
I have a lot of reading up to do. I've read part of this thread and joined.
I've ordered a Kodak Reels from Amazon. It should be here tomorrow.
I kind of want to replace the lens after seeing some test footage on YouTube. I don't know if there are any appropriate lenses stateside that will work. With the new tariffs and taxes on oversea goods here in the US, it might make it cost-prohibitive to order some lenses linked in videos, etc.
Thanks to everyone for your efforts to improve a budget machine. I can't wait to give it a go.
I never found this lens from a US supplier. It likely does exist here, but I not found it.
I'm sure you are right about this. It is a shame there aren't many other options.
I think I've updated the firmware correctly, but I'm not sure how to check it.
My serial number starts with a C. I used the helper tool, which recommended firmware version B. I tried that, but got a crazy-looking screen. I tried the A version and finally the C version. The unit seems to work with the C version, but I don't see many other options for adjustments.
My first test result seems fine, though. At least good enough for archiving old family footage.
Thanks for the feedback. The firmware lookup took is based on the principal of the now offline Kodak firmware update site. It used serial numbers to determine which model the firmware should work. However, Kodak removed this website, so a lot of guesswork is involved for units beyond the serial numbers listed. At the time their tool was active, only "A" and "B" model units existed. Therefore, version "C" required some guesswork based on serial numbers submitted by people here.
Feel free to ping me your serial number so I can maybe help figure out how this works better.
Keep in mind, my website only modifies the bit rate and resolution. It does not include the excellent mods done by @0dan0. Those can be found through various posts in this thread.
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Hi guys, I'm amazed by the new advancements you've been developing in these past few months. I've installed one of the first Mac84 mods a couple of years ago and it seemed already a whole new world: it opened the gates to a bunch of new hacks, upgrades, fixes.
Now, besides the compliments, I'm writing because I have a question: I cannot find my s/n in Mac84's little model helper. I see that the numbers starting with the letter M only range in a 2021xxxxx set of numbers, while my device is a M2023xxxx I have the clean, original firmware, but I would like to install the new versions but I am not sure of what's my model (a or b?).
I could try and in case go back to the original firmware, but maybe someone can help me with my serial number.
Thank you and, again, all my admiration!
Ciao, Federico
Now, besides the compliments, I'm writing because I have a question: I cannot find my s/n in Mac84's little model helper. I see that the numbers starting with the letter M only range in a 2021xxxxx set of numbers, while my device is a M2023xxxx I have the clean, original firmware, but I would like to install the new versions but I am not sure of what's my model (a or b?).
I could try and in case go back to the original firmware, but maybe someone can help me with my serial number.
Thank you and, again, all my admiration!
Ciao, Federico
Hi Federico, thanks for posting. As explained in a recent post above, the serial number lookup tool I made was sourced from the data on Kodak's (now offline as of mid-2024) firmware update website.
It's quite simple in it's function. Similar to the Kodak site, it contained a long, long list of serial numbers. If the serial number was found on the list, it would serve you one file, if it wasn't, it would serve you a different one. We nicknamed these "A" and "B".
However, recently people seemingly had newer firmware files on their units. This was probably due to the minor hardware changes (LCD part, camera part, etc) that required firmware changes to support them. Because of this, we assumed "C" firmware files were ones that began with a certain prefix, such as 'H2324148BK'. But this is guess work at best.
The ONLY way to fully ensure you have your unique firmware saved is to open the unit up and dump the firmware via 1 or 2 invasive methods. One requires the use of a soldering iron, the other requires you to buy a $80 chip programmer and clip that to one of the chips, both require to tear down your unit very carefully. So that process isn't for everyone.
Please note, trying out new firmware erases the old firmware. So there's no turning back. If you have any concerns over your unit's firmware not being covered by the files in this fan project, I'd hold off for now until we have more info.
If you lived nearby (or would ship it), I'd offer to open your device and backup the firmware just in case. But I understand that's not too practical.
Can you please direct message me your serial number? It's on the sticker on the bottom of the unit. I'd like to see if anyone else shared others and try and determine if it matches any patterns.
Thank you Mac, I've actually already hacked my scanner with your first-ish firmware two years ago. Fact is that at the time we were not talking about A, B or C, so now I find myself in possession of one of Kodak's original firmware (so I can revert to a safe standard) plus one of your high bitrate firmware (that is now in use in my scanner).
I'm not worried about going back to now: I just wondered if there is another method to determine, by serial number or working original or modified firmware content, the revision of my scanner.
I think I remember that my scanner had a different version from the one you first changed, so I had only performed the fix of the firmware, once the 'new' version was available at Kodak's. It was 2023, so I believe it should be a version B...
My serial number is M2023148BK00607, let me know if you have any idea on the model.
In any cases I think the ultimate way to check it, is to try and flash the 6.8 B and see if the screen turns on properly
Thank you! F.
Ah, got it! Sorry I may have misunderstood.Thank you Mac, I've actually already hacked my scanner with your first-ish firmware two years ago. Fact is that at the time we were not talking about A, B or C, so now I find myself in possession of one of Kodak's original firmware (so I can revert to a safe standard) plus one of your high bitrate firmware (that is now in use in my scanner).
I'm not worried about going back to now: I just wondered if there is another method to determine, by serial number or working original or modified firmware content, the revision of my scanner.
I think I remember that my scanner had a different version from the one you first changed, so I had only performed the fix of the firmware, once the 'new' version was available at Kodak's. It was 2023, so I believe it should be a version B...
My serial number is M2023148BK00607, let me know if you have any idea on the model.
In any cases I think the ultimate way to check it, is to try and flash the 6.8 B and see if the screen turns on properly
Thank you! F.
You are in no danger to reflash firmware files. Even if it's not 100% compatible, I haven't harmed any of my decides by flashing "incorrect" firmware to it. I simply re-try another. Since at least your device has worked with one of them before, there may be some guesswork, but that's about it.
I recently realized one of my firmware files was mislabeled (I think it was an "unmodified" one), but I haven't been able to confirm yet. Thanks for your serial number, I'll try to take some time this weekend to see if that matches any trends I've seen.
Hi @KODIAK , I'm curious to know if you've managed to fix the problem with the pin?
Rather than the final position of the stepper motor, it seems that the round, eccentric component in your second picture is mounted 90degrees to the left (or right). If we consider the full rotation that brings the pin (in a correct machine) from all the way right (0 degrees), to the far left (180 deg) and back to the right (360 degrees rotation) yours start at 270 (or 90, maybe).
Would it be possible to put it back rotated 90 degrees on one side?
I might be completely wrong, but that was the first thing that came to my mind.
Ciao! F.
Hello all. New guy here. Just thought I would share my experience with this excellent thread.
I bought my Kodak from Amazon in July 2024 and have a serial# that begins with an A, and is A2724148BK00166. It did not match with anything in the tool from Mac84, so I tried all 3 versions of Odano's FW and version B works great. While A and C both caused issues, I had zero problems switching between versions. Just remember to read everything in Mac84's instructions.
I purchased the spacer, locking ring and lens as outlined. The lens was $79 and shipping was $100 (I don't know how much would have been saved using the forwarding service). It was in the states within a week, but then DHL notified me that "duty" had to be collected from me for $62. I lost another week trying to argue with DHL about it, but they stuck to it ($45 duty and $17 tax on the duty). Although the part was coming from the UK, it was listed as Chinese origin. Keep this in mind if you are thinking of taking this route. Worth it to me considering the number of reels I have.
As an idea for others, check with your local library for availability of 3D printers. My local had 3 brand new printers. To print Odano's parts cost me a whopping .75 cents. and took less than hour of prep, setup and print. Did the mounts and the insert.
Once I had everything mounted, I had an issue that others must not have experienced. I included a pic of my setup (like Odano's). I had the lens spacer screwed in completely, then as I was screwing in the lens and trying to focus, I ran out of available internal spacer thread to screw the lens into the spacer just as it was coming into focus. What to do? After playing with the height of the lens assembly, I was able to get to enough focus adjustment by installing the circuit board underneath the top mount (see pic). Once I did this, the framing was out of square, so I had to open the lower mount holes just a bit to allow a little twisting of the mount to square up the frame. In case you are wondering, I did look for the same exact screws from various hardware resources, but these were difficult to find. I ended up finding a laptop screw kit with micro screws and used the flathead M2*4 screws, which worked perfectly. Little different thread pitch, but held much tighter. Got the focusing dialed in and now need to ask some questions.
1) Has anyone experienced the same issue with the lens? What could I have done wrong? I am not seeing anything.
2) With the lowering of my lens, is the area of capture changed from what others are capturing? I believe it was suggested to NOT use the Kodak zoom, capture the entire frame and crop later. With that, does my framing mirror others or am I getting too much of the top and bottom frames included? (see pic below).
3) When I tried the latest version of Odano's 6.8, ver B, when I hit capture, I ended up with a rectangular X (see pic) for a few seconds before it goes back to the menu. Reverting back to 6.6 works.
4) I will be using Resolve for all editing. While I know how to do most everything else, I am very deficient in color grading. If anyone has any suggestions on training videos for novices on color grading, it would be appreciated. Found a few on youtube, but they often go down so many rabbit holes, makes it tough to follow. Are there any automated options? I also have access to Topaz.
I will have other questions, but wanted to get these answered first before I start capturing. I want to make sure I have the lens completely dialed in first.
Odano - If you have any way I can send you a few bucks to help contribute to your efforts, please PM me. This is outstanding work.
rms337
I bought my Kodak from Amazon in July 2024 and have a serial# that begins with an A, and is A2724148BK00166. It did not match with anything in the tool from Mac84, so I tried all 3 versions of Odano's FW and version B works great. While A and C both caused issues, I had zero problems switching between versions. Just remember to read everything in Mac84's instructions.
I purchased the spacer, locking ring and lens as outlined. The lens was $79 and shipping was $100 (I don't know how much would have been saved using the forwarding service). It was in the states within a week, but then DHL notified me that "duty" had to be collected from me for $62. I lost another week trying to argue with DHL about it, but they stuck to it ($45 duty and $17 tax on the duty). Although the part was coming from the UK, it was listed as Chinese origin. Keep this in mind if you are thinking of taking this route. Worth it to me considering the number of reels I have.
As an idea for others, check with your local library for availability of 3D printers. My local had 3 brand new printers. To print Odano's parts cost me a whopping .75 cents. and took less than hour of prep, setup and print. Did the mounts and the insert.
Once I had everything mounted, I had an issue that others must not have experienced. I included a pic of my setup (like Odano's). I had the lens spacer screwed in completely, then as I was screwing in the lens and trying to focus, I ran out of available internal spacer thread to screw the lens into the spacer just as it was coming into focus. What to do? After playing with the height of the lens assembly, I was able to get to enough focus adjustment by installing the circuit board underneath the top mount (see pic). Once I did this, the framing was out of square, so I had to open the lower mount holes just a bit to allow a little twisting of the mount to square up the frame. In case you are wondering, I did look for the same exact screws from various hardware resources, but these were difficult to find. I ended up finding a laptop screw kit with micro screws and used the flathead M2*4 screws, which worked perfectly. Little different thread pitch, but held much tighter. Got the focusing dialed in and now need to ask some questions.
1) Has anyone experienced the same issue with the lens? What could I have done wrong? I am not seeing anything.
2) With the lowering of my lens, is the area of capture changed from what others are capturing? I believe it was suggested to NOT use the Kodak zoom, capture the entire frame and crop later. With that, does my framing mirror others or am I getting too much of the top and bottom frames included? (see pic below).
3) When I tried the latest version of Odano's 6.8, ver B, when I hit capture, I ended up with a rectangular X (see pic) for a few seconds before it goes back to the menu. Reverting back to 6.6 works.
4) I will be using Resolve for all editing. While I know how to do most everything else, I am very deficient in color grading. If anyone has any suggestions on training videos for novices on color grading, it would be appreciated. Found a few on youtube, but they often go down so many rabbit holes, makes it tough to follow. Are there any automated options? I also have access to Topaz.
I will have other questions, but wanted to get these answered first before I start capturing. I want to make sure I have the lens completely dialed in first.
Odano - If you have any way I can send you a few bucks to help contribute to your efforts, please PM me. This is outstanding work.
rms337
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Hi - another newbie here, so sorry if I sound like one!
Bought my machine this week from Amazon UK. My serial number starts with a C.
The "which firmware do you need?" page said I needed B, but B just gave me a corrupted screen.
So I tried C (figuring a newer machine will needed newer firmware) and that seems to work, except when playing back on the machine I'm seeing green areas within the image. However the files when played back on my Mac seem OK. I think. I've only tried short captures so far, yet to experiment with longer ones.
I also tried the latest 'C' version the alternative 0and0 firmware, and it all *looks* like it's working, but no files are saved on the SD card. And when I go into playback section of the menus on the machine (or press playback after recording) then the machine locks up. Am I doing something stupid? Does it work for anyone else with a C machine? Or maybe mine's not really a C after all...
oh, and thank you to everyone who has created this stuff to improve the scanner. Shame Kodak couldn’t do this from the start!
Bought my machine this week from Amazon UK. My serial number starts with a C.
The "which firmware do you need?" page said I needed B, but B just gave me a corrupted screen.
So I tried C (figuring a newer machine will needed newer firmware) and that seems to work, except when playing back on the machine I'm seeing green areas within the image. However the files when played back on my Mac seem OK. I think. I've only tried short captures so far, yet to experiment with longer ones.
I also tried the latest 'C' version the alternative 0and0 firmware, and it all *looks* like it's working, but no files are saved on the SD card. And when I go into playback section of the menus on the machine (or press playback after recording) then the machine locks up. Am I doing something stupid? Does it work for anyone else with a C machine? Or maybe mine's not really a C after all...
oh, and thank you to everyone who has created this stuff to improve the scanner. Shame Kodak couldn’t do this from the start!
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