Hacking the Kodak Reels 8mm Film Digitizer (New Thread)
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Please can you read through and vote on the following proposition for changes to the board structure by clicking here.
I looked around similar offsets to the range of buffers we saw in the ipl getimepath 0 results, and I found 16 buffers with live data, a few before the starting buffer shown in the 656x480 P2 pipeline, and several after. I tried filling all of them but still have a flicker. I'm not going to dwell on that issue though---pretty neat to have a histogram regardless, thanks to @0dan0 !
Qp can't affect this, as this is a encoder value that is ramps too, the first frames are always encoded at QP 25 (or similar). The jitter starts immediately, well before any Qp change is applied. Is just the randomness of these units. I do have some leads on detecting this failure, but adding type D support is taking priority.
@ThePhage could you also include the 3D printable files in the user manual link? I know there's the camera standoff mod, the lens caps, and a film visibility reducer thing.
@0dan0 the mem read at the following location seems to have a mode table for the new sensor in the Type D units:
Code:
mem r 0x80dbf440 0x80 dump addr=80dbf440 length=00000080 to console:
80DBF440 : 802CCBB8 802CCB20 00000790 00000434 ..,. .,.....4..
80DBF450 : 00000790 00000434 00000790 00000434 ....4.......4..
80DBF460 : 00000740 00000408 00000740 00000408 @.......@......
80DBF470 : 00000740 00000408 00000700 000003E4 @..............
80DBF480 : 00000700 000003E4 00000700 000003E4 ...............
80DBF490 : 000006C0 000003C0 000006C0 000003C0 ...............
80DBF4A0 : 000006C0 000003C0 00000680 000003A0 ...............
80DBF4B0 : 00000680 000003A0 00000680 000003A0 ...............| Modes | Width | Height | Ratio | Aspect |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 0, 1, 2 | 1936 (0x790) | 1076 (0x434) | 1.80 | 16:9 |
| 3, 4, 5 | 1856 (0x740) | 1032 (0x408) | 1.80 | 16:9 |
| 6, 7, 8 | 1792 (0x700) | 996 (0x3E4) | 1.80 | 16:9 |
| 9, 10, 11 | 1728 (0x6C0) | 960 (0x3C0) | 1.80 | 16:9 |
| 12, 13, 14 | 1664 (0x680) | 928 (0x3A0) | 1.79 | 16:9 |
My D unit is arriving tomorrow. I will be adding the serial port soon after, to start my hands development. Already have the replacement lens for when we get this working.
Do you have any tips on focusing the lens? On my 1st unit the metal 7mm adapter took dozens of tries to thread in, and then it still only threaded about halfway in. With the spacer/model set provided, I cannot get it to focus with the 12mm nor the 16mm lens (from the USA source). I have to lift the piece way up to get any sense of focus. E.g. the yellow part is the spacing gap I have from screwing in and the red bars are the approximate height I have to lift the camera board to get focusing. (I also need to upgrade firmware from five or so months ago's version.)
Has anyone tried swapping the camera mount for one of these? Might be easier than having the extra lens ring extension?
Lastly, a suggestion on the camera mounts, on my unit the camera bracket rubs the standoff bracket piece it mounts to. Mainly from the box-and-ears shape for clearance is overhung by the dovetail joint receptacle on that piece. If you make another revision, it would be good to make that cut through all parts, not just the thin plate part.
Has anyone tried swapping the camera mount for one of these? Might be easier than having the extra lens ring extension?
Amazon.com : Arducam M12 Mount Lens Holder Set, 8 Styles : Electronics
Amazon.com : Arducam M12 Mount Lens Holder Set, 8 Styles : Electronics
www.amazon.com
Lastly, a suggestion on the camera mounts, on my unit the camera bracket rubs the standoff bracket piece it mounts to. Mainly from the box-and-ears shape for clearance is overhung by the dovetail joint receptacle on that piece. If you make another revision, it would be good to make that cut through all parts, not just the thin plate part.
That doesn't appear to be the correct lens, it must be:
Azure Photonics AZURE-1228MAC 2/3" 12mm F2.8
A generic 12mm M12 will not work, not any 16mm lenses that I have found. That lens has a different font, and hole not present on any of my AZURE-1228MAC lenses.
I've updated my earlier hardware upgrades post with an additional backlight mask idea that fits below the film. Enjoy!
https://tinkerdifferent.com/threads...8mm-film-digitizer-new-thread.4885/post-43581
https://tinkerdifferent.com/threads...8mm-film-digitizer-new-thread.4885/post-43581
That's your photo and lens!
The two lenses that I have here (that I'm struggling with) are the
AZURE-1228MAC
| Azure Photonics AZURE-1228MAC 2/3" 12mm F2.8 Fixed Iris M12 (S-Mount) Lens, 10 Megapixel Rated, Near Field (100-500mm W.D.) |
AZURE-1622MAC
| Azure Photonics AZURE-1622MAC 2/3" 16mm F2.2 Fixed Iris M12 (S-Mount) Lens, 10 Megapixel Rated, Near Field (100-500mm W.D.) |
And these were purchased from RMA? The correct lens will focus if that 7mm extension can sit flush against the lens mount. The 3D print now has three standoff heights, and I have found the lowest standoff height is the easiest. Yet you have to mount your sensor board significantly higher, which makes it feel as if this not the same lens.
Yes they were. I will try the lowest shim to focus with and also those reduced iris lens caps. I can't get the 7mm extension to sit flush but I'll have to try some more. Getting that extension to screw in is the hardest/longest part of this mod, and that includes opening the case to cut the hole!
Don't use iris lens caps, as that introduces vignetting.
The issue is the plastic camera mount, the thread is too easily messed up, I had trouble with it too. Maybe on my next unit, I will print my own extension tube in TPU, soft enough to thread the lens onto, fill customizable length.
I've been concerned about scratches on the film stock as well--has anyone looked into replacing the plastic guides with stainless rollers? For accessories on my fishing charter boat, I found a scientific supply store online that custom cuts stainless tubing. When I outfit the custom 12mm lens on my D unit, I'm going to look at how the stock guides are attached. Has anyone measure the diameter of the stock plastic guide? I haven't located my digital caliper since I relocated back to the US.
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For anyone doing dev work or just wants a "front accessible" SD card slot, I bought on of these SD card extension ribbons on Amazon and I find it very helpful:
Attachments
hi everyone,
after flashing the overwhelmingly awesome modded firmware,
I came up with a hardware-modification on my european Reels (B),
I felt might be worth sharing with you.
It helped me get rid of the jittery captures I had on some movies.
The pickup-reel moved too fast in my opinion, so I added a speed-control.
This enables me now to slow down the the pickup and therewith the
force with which it was pulling the movie through the scanner.
maybe there's also the benefit of the plastic-pegs not scratching
the filmstrip anymore, as it isn't pulled over them as hard as before.
if you are interested, I would be happy to share more details about this.
greetings from southern germany,
Chris
after flashing the overwhelmingly awesome modded firmware,
I came up with a hardware-modification on my european Reels (B),
I felt might be worth sharing with you.
It helped me get rid of the jittery captures I had on some movies.
The pickup-reel moved too fast in my opinion, so I added a speed-control.
This enables me now to slow down the the pickup and therewith the
force with which it was pulling the movie through the scanner.
maybe there's also the benefit of the plastic-pegs not scratching
the filmstrip anymore, as it isn't pulled over them as hard as before.
if you are interested, I would be happy to share more details about this.
greetings from southern germany,
Chris
ah, I nearly forgot one little bug with the firmware.
I have a 32 GB and a 64 GB sd card for capturing, both are from Kodak.
whenever I use the 64GB sd card, editing of the parameters while scanning
is not possible. it's the same view in the lower right corner of the screen as
in the preview mode.
as soon as I change to the 32 GB card, everything works as intended.
it doesn't bother me, rather confused me a little
maybe someone ran into the same problem and couldn't find a solution.
or it's just my lousy card
I have a 32 GB and a 64 GB sd card for capturing, both are from Kodak.
whenever I use the 64GB sd card, editing of the parameters while scanning
is not possible. it's the same view in the lower right corner of the screen as
in the preview mode.
as soon as I change to the 32 GB card, everything works as intended.
it doesn't bother me, rather confused me a little
maybe someone ran into the same problem and couldn't find a solution.
or it's just my lousy card
Dumb mistake on my part. I made the channel between the two walls of this design too narrow for the film to pass through. It's been resolved and updated as a v2 part in my original post.
Thank you. Added the bug report to the repo.ah, I nearly forgot one little bug with the firmware.
I have a 32 GB and a 64 GB sd card for capturing, both are from Kodak.
whenever I use the 64GB sd card, editing of the parameters while scanning
is not possible. it's the same view in the lower right corner of the screen as
in the preview mode.
as soon as I change to the 32 GB card, everything works as intended.
it doesn't bother me, rather confused me a little
maybe someone ran into the same problem and couldn't find a solution.
or it's just my lousy card
hi everyone,
after flashing the overwhelmingly awesome modded firmware,
I came up with a hardware-modification on my european Reels (B),
I felt might be worth sharing with you.
It helped me get rid of the jittery captures I had on some movies.
The pickup-reel moved too fast in my opinion, so I added a speed-control.
This enables me now to slow down the the pickup and therewith the
force with which it was pulling the movie through the scanner.
maybe there's also the benefit of the plastic-pegs not scratching
the filmstrip anymore, as it isn't pulled over them as hard as before.
View attachment 26596
View attachment 26597
if you are interested, I would be happy to share more details about this.
greetings from southern germany,
Chris
It is possible that some of the jitter can come for the film being pulled too hard, however not all, as it can happen with no pulling reel attached. There is a firmware issue in the original, as it happens in stock unit too. I have some potential leads on next steps in firmware.