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Some years back, I replaced the dual 1.25MHz cpu that came with my MDD G4 FW400 with a dual 1.42MHz. I had no problems for years. Over the past few years, however, both my long-serving G4 and the backup MDD G4 I obtained in 2018 have become unstable. I’ve had PSU’s refurbished, changed logic...

I believe the well ventilated cases with the round holes are the Apple branded PSU’s.

I upgraded one of my SE/30 PSU’s rather spending time trying to keep a 35 year old Astek going, and upgraded a few other Astek and Apple branded PSU’s for the sake of longevity. I’m planning to recap, rather than upgrade, the Sonys, which have a better reputation for reliability.

There’s an ultrasonic cutter on Amazon for $40, no reviews. Owners have to provide their own power supplies. I’ve taken the plunge, and plan to report back once I’ve had a chance to use it. At least it’s returnable, should it turn out to be junk...

As the Mean Well RT-85B is convection cooled, I’d recommend using the case from an Astek or Apple SE/30 PSU rather than Sony, since they have greater ventilation.

My Sony PSU is labeled: 5V at 6A 12V#1 at 1.25A (sweep) 12V#2 at 2.1A (disk) -12V at 0.5 Total 12V needed is 3.35A, which would need the 18CFM fan to achieve with the MeanWell. I’ve combined 12V sweep and disk from the single 12V output of my Seasonic SSP-250SUB without difficulties.

What is your method for opening these? I have created significant damage to the ones I've opened, and could use some advice before tackling the few I have left.

I have a C&E HDMI to S-video and composite device from Amazon (this specific one is no longer available). Connect this to a Canopus ADVC-100 Firewire D/A converter or Firewire camcorder’s analog input (as mentioned above) and connect to Firewire. Use something like Strata Videoshop v4 in full...

Good resource, trag. A search for “MDD G4” at badcaps.net leads to several pages of results regarding both brands of PSU. I used badcaps.net in the past to fix a Sony receiver, but for some reason it’s never occurred to me to check it for Mac related issues.

That seems reasonable. With shipping costs what they are, that was about what I spent getting my Lombard’s battery rebuilt by Chans in Canada. Too bad that customs opened the package, then repacked it using the batteries to protect the bubble wrap rather than the other way around. The...

I digitized my LP collection and half my cassette collection using a PowerMac 8600. I also used that Mac as a VCR using iDo script scheduler, OneClick macros, and Adobe Premiere 5.1LE. Video in was via cable box to Sony digital8 camcorder to Firewire PCI card. I made video CD’s of my...

The 28V line is only needed if you are using an ADC monitor.

I’ve been adventurous with electronics since age 7. Any time anything I own breaks, I try to fix it. I’ve recapped power supplies for my SE/30, and two IIfx’s. I’ve recapped logic boards for PowerBook G3 and G4. I’ve worked on my MacBook Pro’s logic board. I took one look inside the MDD...

I have Mac Plus RIFA caps that I ended up not needing. I'll contact you directly.

My Plus developed the same symptoms after I think six years of daily use (1992). It saw another three years of daily use, getting slapped on the side from time to time to bring back the video, before entering semi-retirement. At age 27, the Plus underwent treatment with...

Usedmac.com is one place to look.

Before obtaining a battery spot welder, I used copper tape with electrically conductive adhesive to rebuild my Lombard PRAM battery, which I believe is identical to the Pismo’s. There are four cells (VL2330? Please confirm before ordering). Just slit open the brown wrapper holding them all...

Almost: It looks like there’s one more to go - C1 (upper right hand of the photo, by the letter “B”).

As you say, C7 is just like the other smd 47uF caps on that board. It is at high risk for leaking, and really needs to be replaced.

Correct - it does not need replacing. A couple of mine also came with a film capacitor instead of bipolar electrolytic.