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So have people had luck using these? Are they rated the same as the RIFAs (X1)? Trying to figure out what would be best to replace the 9 RIFA caps in a ProFile drive's power supply.

Trying to fix up a Profile Power Supply as well. Looks like one of the RIFA caps blew on this one (as did the fuse). What did you use to replace those safety caps? I couldn't tell what kind of caps would be best to replace them, but want to tackle them all while I have it apart.

The legs of the caps lock key were broken. The mechanism for holding the key down when on seems to still work. Trying to re-attach the tiny legs has been proving challenging. :(

OK, some additional questions about the RIFA caps in my ProFile drive: I mistakenly ordered X2 versions of the safety caps instead of the original X rated ones. Can I use X2 rated caps instead? Also, some of the safety caps (two 2200pF RIFAs at C2 and C3; three 0.22uF RIFAs at c12,C19,C26)...

Yeah, appears to not have the square pixel mod. There is a widget drive inside, but I'm guessing it no longer works. The ProFile smells as if it if had a RIFA cap smoke bomb, and the internal fuse had been blown. Holy cow there are a lot of RIFA caps in the power supply - 9 in total. Once...

So, a vertical hold adjustment did, in fact, stabilize the image. Unfortunately, as I was tuning the picture, the magic smoke was released. I was really hoping to test out booting before I recapped and replaced the RIFAs. Is not to be, and now my computer room smells wonderful! First time...

I just got back from my 5 hour trek to pick up one of my bucket list items, a Lisa. It came untested, with a ProFile drive, printer, and keyboard (no mouse). I believe I will be able to use an early Mac mouse, correct? Anyway, I opened it up to remove the battery, only to find it does not...

So you didn’t replace UE8? I had a very similar problem that was solved with replacing UE8. https://tinkerdifferent.com/threads/se-30-jail-bars.2312/

I wish I knew what I did, but I eventually got the machine to boot reliably. Probably removing the board and reseating something? I got it to run BeOS and it seems to be working well now. Unfortunately, I don't know what caused it to start working...

Ah, so the sun was coming it at a higher angle, and a cover that served as a hat brim over the receiver was enough to shield it. My sister's problem was more due to the light coming at sunset low enough that it would have to be a long tube extending a decent amount to try to filter out the...

Ha, my sister had the same issue. I tried creating a tube, but at sunset at a certain time of the year there was no stopping it. Unfortunately, the wires were run behind the drywall, so I had to cut the wires, and swap the emitter and receivers. Curious how your shield was designed, though...

I had similar experience with a machine that was having trouble booting. The main difference in behavior was that I wasn't getting any lights or any signs of life. Left it plugged in and on overnight, and it booted fine the next day. This feels like a different issue.

I picked up one of the Apple Iic stand and never could figure out what it was used for, as I don't think the Iic fit under it well, or maybe I couldn't figure out the inaccessibility of the disk issue. Here's the angled risers:

Just to follow up on this - there was significant damage around the SCSI chip. I tried to remove and replace, attempting to repair the pads that fell off the board during removal, then installing a new SCSI chip . but I have now been left with a machine that has horizontal black bars across the...

Save that L2 G3 upgrade card for a Twentieth Anniversary Mac! :)

Yeah. Used this truck to jump start my II power supply. Unfortunately, no startup or error chime. Going to do a recap at some point as it looks like it was done with radial caps and it looks bad. Also unsure of the quality of the caps, so restarting with fresh caps feels like a good start. No...

I guess that's my question. I've seen some documentation saying it's two 3.6v batteries (7.2v total) and others stating it is two 3v batteries, for 6v total. Anyone confirm what they are using in theirs and if it is 3v or 3.6v batteries for the two slots?

Anyone know if I used a couple 3x AAA battery holders if it would work? If it's expecting 3v, the 3.6v of the AAAs would be a bit high. Too high?

So it seems to be a problem with the logic board, as I plugged the board into my other SE/30 (known working analog board) and got the same behavior. I'll take a closer look around the SCSI chip for anything that looks out of place. I may simply save this board and use it with the SE/30...

That was useful. I checked the 5v pin on the bluepill, assuming that would carry through the voltage from the SCSI 5v line. It was less than 3v. I'll check out the pins from the analog board to see if the voltage is bad there, or if there is a problem on the analog board getting the power to...