Before my unit died, expo_iso at 0x80e5590c was working for me. The display of ISO value changed correctly as light was controlled.
Hacking the Kodak Reels 8mm Film Digitizer (New Thread)
- Thread starter Mac84
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Please can you read through and vote on the following proposition for changes to the board structure by clicking here.
@0dan0, can you share your last version of the hist.c for that display? did you have that blinking issue I had?
hist.c is up to date. I did have the flicker, which just means it need to be called form somewhere else.
@0dan0, in Type A/B/C mods, were you able to identify an address that stored the current buffer address that was being drawn to? I saw that
ipl getimepath reports the current buffer frame.
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Ooof I can't keep up with you guys! I thought I checked the stickies but didn't see this model. Thanks!
Thanks for posting this! I didn't realize my heat gun was set as hot as it was---I partially melted one side of the mount while I was trying to remove the glue bead. I'll be back on track with my lens upgrade in two days when the new mount from that kit you linked to on Amazon arrives!
Hi, this looks like an easy way to protect the filmbase. I have managed to deassemble the hull and I see now that the plastic-rod, wich You have added the nylon wasker and spacer on, kan be loosened from the inside.
bow do I securely disconnect the two flatcables?
brg
Claus
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Hi,
I'm a little late, but in the past month i had no time to scan. Now I'm reading all the new posts and came to #83. Here I came to Omegas #573 and read about skipping. I have the same issue and just want to make clear for me ( because I'm german ) what you mean with "the spring". Your picture points on the screw. Do you meant to get rid of the screw or to get rid of the whole "metal thing" ?
I'm a little late, but in the past month i had no time to scan. Now I'm reading all the new posts and came to #83. Here I came to Omegas #573 and read about skipping. I have the same issue and just want to make clear for me ( because I'm german ) what you mean with "the spring". Your picture points on the screw. Do you meant to get rid of the screw or to get rid of the whole "metal thing" ?
The plastic posts are held by screws that are easily removed once you have separated the case.
So the two ribbons you see in that picture---the narrow one goes to the button control panel on top of the unit. Before you pull apart the halves further, move that top panel to the other half so that you only need to disconnect the wider ribbon to the back half. I use masking or painter's tape to hold that button panel in place so that it does slide out.
That wider ribbon uses a “pull out” black tab—don’t try to pull the tab out more than you need to—light pressure on both sides of the tab should release the ribbon.
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Thnx for advise, it worked great. I have also removed the cover to the sensor and lens. I was thinking about if I should lower the lens by 12 mm as mentioned earlier on this forum. But there is a plastic wall in the backgroud. Does this background cover the screws, that holds the sensor?
and I took a photo of the sensor. Can I recognize if my Reel is the modelD by the brand of sensor?
My S/N starts with H28251488K******. I have not tried to flash a new firmware yet, but I am more than willing to contribute with tests if it can help the mission
and I took a photo of the sensor. Can I recognize if my Reel is the modelD by the brand of sensor?
My S/N starts with H28251488K******. I have not tried to flash a new firmware yet, but I am more than willing to contribute with tests if it can help the mission
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Hi. I was thinking about lowering the lens and sensor like You have done. But how do You reach the screws? I added a photo with my sensor and lens ?I am still in utter admiration for the energy and dedication you all are putting into fabricating a firmware that helps us getting a decent picture quality out of a seemingly unsatisfying consumer product!Thank you for that!
I am currently into the hardware side of things and I tried an el cheapo solution for enhancing the resolution my Kodak is getting with its stock lens.
Simply Because I didn't want to spend another 100 € for a new lens, I thought about just bringing the camera closer to the film strip.
After testing a possible distance, where I still was able to focus, I settled on 12 mm.
Which is about the distance between the screw holes of the camera mount. That way I only had to drill four new holes into the metal plate of the scanning assembly.
View attachment 26612
After remounting the camera and connecting it again (don't worry, the ribbon cable should be long enough), I could measure how much of the plastic case below it I had to cut away. (about 5 - 6 mm)
Finally I had to modify the camera cover to fit over the lower hanging lens.
The result now looks like this (cover removed for illustration purposes)
View attachment 26614
View attachment 26615
With everything in place I refocused the stock lens to match the new height.
Compared to the effort I had put in, I am pretty satisfied with the final result, considering both resolution and overall look of the modification.
Here is a comparison of before and after - both in 1600x1200 (max zoomed out)
The effective resolution is now at 1152x864, with a small margin around the actual frame.
View attachment 26618
Here is another screenshot of the capture. Given that the actual movie isn't the highest quality, I am still happy with how it turned out
View attachment 26619
Here's my final summary:
Advantages
- sourcing of a fitting new Lens unnecessary (cost saving)
- absolutely no 3D-Printer or other special tools needed,
just a sharp 4 mm drill, a screwdriver and a knive or a dremel- minimal modification of the case (time saving)
- all can be done within about one hour
- no change of the overall aesthetic of your scanner
- mostly easily revertable, if in the future you should decide to go the full mile (with a new lens)
Disadvantages
- not the full possible resolution of 1600x1200 (only 1152x864)
- the lid of the transport mechanism doesn't open completely
(but still high enough to easily thread the movie through)
I would love to hear your comments about my approach. For me personally it's totally sufficient, especially in connection with the modded firmware and considering the cost and time savings.
brg Claus
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This approach involves drilling new holes into the chassis that the lens board mounts to. I think getting the 12mm macro lens is the better way to go, and keeps the alignment in place. You do have a Type D unit, as that sensor board is stamped 2025.
i'm sorry i didn't take pictures of the whole process, i hope i can make it a bit clearer:
you have to completely unscrew the scanning unit from the case.
there are like 8 screws that are screwed into the plastic.
first, carefully disconnect the ribbon cables. you have to unlock the connectors.
then remove the screws marked green, so that the pink metal plate comes off.
this holds the scanning assembly together. after that, remove the red marked
screws, to separate the metal plate and the yellow motor cage, together with
the transport mechanism.
you should now be left with only the pink plate, to which the camera module is attached.
remove the four screws that holds it in place and you only have the plate, ready to be drilled.