Logic Board - Macintosh SE Reloaded

iPhil64

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The Lead Spacing on the motherboard PCB is 8mm but your coils are 20mm. I assume you bent one of the leads with pliers to make both leads fit? That would me the coils would be standing up on their leads. To prevent movement and relieve stress on those leads, did you use hot-glue or similar under the coils?
First of all, all my apologies for answering so late... My personal just took over, but I'm back.

So, yes, I did bend the leads to make them fit in the holes. They were even so thick I also had to sand the leads a bit. I'm currently not using any glue or support, and it seems pretty rigid.

Since I'm slowly receiving the latest part to complete the boards now, I can hopefully test soon.
 
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iPhil64

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Hey all !

I now have 2 donor boards to complete my SE reloaded ones. Both are fully functional.

As you can see from the picture below, they do hold two different Part Numbers : 630-4125 and 630-4250.
Do you know what the differences are ?

Apart from the silk screen colour, a jumper for RAM size selection on the right, and a few ICs of different brand, I can not really spot a difference.

No leakage or damage to the boards, I will remove the battery anyway. (I never had a Varta leak though).
Also you can spot some unusual SIMMs on the left hand side.

Now... I think I will flip a coin to know which one will be the first donor.... unless anyone gives me a specific reason to start with any of them ? @JDW ? @Kay K.M.Mods @Kai Robinson ? :)

IMG_0551.jpeg
 
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Kai Robinson

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Either board would be just fine - no real difference that I can spot, might be a simple change in routing or something - I can't spot anything obvious. Nevertheless, all the parts you need are there. Would it not be better to use a dead board, instead of taking a functional one and transplanting?
 
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iPhil64

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Either board would be just fine - no real difference that I can spot, might be a simple change in routing or something - I can't spot anything obvious. Nevertheless, all the parts you need are there. Would it not be better to use a dead board, instead of taking a functional one and transplanting?
Well, because I'm the owner of only functional motherboards... :/ And It's been months I wanted to try the new ones.
I've been very cautious, and will soldier sockets on the old board in case I need to go back.

Red is finished now ! Will do some continuity / diodes / capacitor testing before powering up now. (do not mind missing programmers' buttons for now)

If anyone has damaged motherboards, I would pay for shipping !


IMG_0552.jpeg
 
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iPhil64

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And... first attempt, no boot.
Some hissing in the speaker, display turns on, but image is garbage.
The tube is scanned, definitely, but it's like half the lines are missing.

I need to make a J12 extension cable, otherwise troubleshooting will be difficult !
And back to schematics, now the fun part starts.
 

JDW

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Well, because I'm the owner of only functional motherboards... :/ And It's been months I wanted to try the new ones.
I've been very cautious, and will soldier sockets on the old board in case I need to go back.

Red is finished now ! Will do some continuity / diodes / capacitor testing before powering up now. (do not mind missing programmers' buttons for now)

If anyone has damaged motherboards, I would pay for shipping !


View attachment 11770
A truly lovely build, Philippe! I can't wait to hear the result of your first power-on test! Fingers crossed! 🤞
 
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iPhil64

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A truly lovely build, Philippe! I can't wait to hear the result of your first power-on test! Fingers crossed! 🤞
So, as mentioned just above, first power-on did not go very far.

No bong and a weird hissing sound in the speaker.
The CRT comes up with a very bright image and very visible scan lines.
So at least we have some scanning, so some clocks are working.

I'm checking again all soldiers, continuity to ground, and other voltages, continuity between J12 and components.

Could be so many things....
The SE case I'm using was not recapped, but worked fine with the two other boards, so I'm currently assuming the analog part is ok.
I may try later in on of the known good SE/30 case with recapped Sony PSUs.

I'm also looking at powering the board with my bench power supply and see if I can get some timings on the scope. But I guess that will be hard, because of the links with the analog board...

Really need that J12 extension. :)
 

JDW

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No bong and a weird hissing sound in the speaker.

@Kai Robinson
When I first powered on my board, I guess I was blessed or lucky because it bonged and worked fine on the first try. But I do know you had issues getting your board to work initially. Did you ever get the symptoms @iPhil64 is describing — no bong and hissing from the speaker?
 

iPhil64

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Hello all ! The red SE/reloaded board is alive !!!!

It was a stupid mistake. I had the 85C30 SCC upside down (plus potentially a few BBU pins slightly bent, but I'm not sure). :( I can't recall how many times I did check orientation of components, especially this one, and could not see it.

So the Mac is now booting, I get chime, picture, mouse cursor and... sad Mac (see below). Picture is slightly offset but pretty good quality.
Now I had not time yet to go further, but I'm open to advices. I need to get back to sad Mac codes (could be memory, this was indeed a very quick test)

Many many thanks to @Kai Robinson and @JDW !! Couldn't have make it with our your help.

IMG_0595.jpegIMG_0597.jpegIMG_0596.jpeg
 
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iPhil64

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Oh also, for those going through the project, I really recommend getting a PLCC extraction tool.
I had definitely bent some pins.

@JDW I can't remember if you had given a reference ?
 

JDW

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I had the 85C30 SCC upside down
I assume you mean "rotated 180° from the incorrect position." That would create problems with serial communications, but it shouldn't cause the sad mac icon to be shifted out of position.

@Kai Robinson , would you have opinions on what could cause the shifting?

Of course, we also need to figure out the cause of your sad Mac too, but first things first.

Oh also, for those going through the project, I really recommend getting a PLCC extraction tool.
I had definitely bent some pins.

@JDW I can't remember if you had given a reference ?
I talk about that at 41:56 in my video below...

 

iPhil64

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I assume you mean "rotated 180° from the incorrect position." That would create problems with serial communications, but it shouldn't cause the sad mac icon to be shifted out of position.

@Kai Robinson , would you have opinions on what could cause the shifting?
Sorry if I wasn't clear.

This is the root cause for the Mac not booting at all and giving the high pitch hissing.

The sad Mac and shift came after "proper" (or nearly as we have a remaining sad Mac) boot up. This is however a huge step forward for me !
 

JDW

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Note that I just edited my previous post to answer your second question.

So you were able to boot to the desktop and then after that, when you tried to boot again, you got the sad Mac?
 

iPhil64

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Note that I just edited my previous post to answer your second question.

So you were able to boot to the desktop and then after that, when you tried to boot again, you got the sad Mac?

I never went past the sad Mac so far. But I only really gave it a couple of tries between two meetings. I may have deeper time to test today and tomorrow (8th May is a bank holiday for us in France).
 

JDW

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What about sound? Sometimes when you get a Sad Mac, you hear "the chimes of death." Any sound like that?
 

iPhil64

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Ah! I missed that. I looked in the descriptions of the video series on your SE Reloaded but did not see a reference to the PLCC extraction tool. :)

Which part of the SE Reloaded series?
Oh ok.

So I used two small screwdrivers, which worked, but did not seem ideal.