Hacking the Kodak Reels 8mm Film Digitizer (New Thread)

[ThePhage]

Hello Everyone
I too am very impressed by this very activ Forum, which inspired me to order a Kodak reel. I am based in Europe and sadly I received a D-Typ yesterday.
(H2825148BKxxxxx). So I guess I will have to wait a while till I can install the new Firmware, is that correct?
Also after unpacking I noticed that the 8mm to super8mm handle was stuck about 1/2 cm under the opening and also the SD card reader was not aligned with the slit of the cover. After opening everything, I could shift the loose mechanics into the correct position. It works all fine now, but has anyone had the same issue?
Best Regards
Roderick

I don't think others have reported that specific issue in these threads. My 2 cents... it may be worth requesting a replacement unit. While you might be able to snap things into their right place, it could be that there are other build quality issues connected to the body mis-alignment. Some folks have reported on how delicate some of the inner components are and a weak connection may not fully manifest until after having used the unit for a while.

Also, since there is no custom firmware for the D unit yet, you've got some time to attempt a replacement with your seller.

 

[ThePhage]

Hi - New Forum user (so be gentle).

Love the "hacking" you have done, but question the value of some of the efforts.

First - the sensor is a CMOS 3280x2464 which really means a 1640x1232 pixel image capability after combining the 4 color cells (R-Gb-Gr-B) which can either integrate to 10 or 12 bits/pixel typically A-Law companded to make 24 bit RGB (Assuming typical cmos image sensor operations). But this then needs to be mangled into 720p ( 1280x720) or 1080p (1920 x 1080) and time slapped from 18fps or 16fps to 24fps to be playable. Throwing a $90 lens at the problem seems like pig cosmetics, however, optics is always the bane of good scanning.

Eliminating and stabilizing the color and white balance are great - but the goal should be to get the best image out of the sensor without adding all manner of conversion artifacts in the process. This means keeping a 720p output based on a 1280x720 sensor window judiciously selected from the sensor view; attempting to up-convert or compress frames simply adds artifacts, not detail.

If you REALLY want 1080p, a 12MP sensor (e.g. Sony IMX477) will provide an output of 2028x1520 which can produce a "real" 1080p output and worthy of the 12mm Macro lens. That would require a processor upgrade, say a Raspberry Pi CM4 and a carrier suitably equipped with some integration to the screen, buttons, and motor; definitely not for the faint of heart, but reasonably doable. This also pushes the limits of the film's resolution but does "honestly" double the scanning quality.

The goal, in any case, should be a true one-to-one raw sequence of digitalized frames without any 720p/1080p conversion or speed artifacts (e.g. inserted frames); i.e., RAW. Finagling color balance and speed in a later digital stage is far less frustrating than trying to crowbar an underpowered SOC to do more than it was ever designed to do. If you're going to use the full capabilities of the existing sensor, then find a way to pad the image to fill the 1080p frame, or stick to 720p with an under scan optically selected from the frame. That is 2.8 (720) or 6.2 (1080) MB/Frame uncompressed that may reasonably compressed - i.e. keep the largest bitrate possible.

One thing I never saw in the thread (sorry - it is WAY too long; maybe a wiki is needed to separate the journey from the results/recommendations) is modifying the light source to allow adjustment of the illumination color balance, rather than trying to constantly apply conversions during scanning. This can be done with a three color led light source tuning or optical filters. Catching and analyzing the sprocket hole leakage would allow dynamic adjustment against source illumination as well, but probably not possible on this platform (especially with ONLY 128MB frame buffer : did I read that correctly?).

However - the results of this team's efforts is phenomenal given the base material! I will be looking for a unit to modify given the head start available herein.

T

I appreciate the amount of technical detail you included here - you probably fit in nicely with the tinkerers here. 0dan0 already addressed some of the points you raised regarding the sensor. So I'll just add a couple of my reflections on your post.

Not sure if I understood your comment about "time slapping." If you're referring to the sensor & transport cadence/timing issues that result in "frame jitter/distortion" then yes, that is royally annoying and the one big item about this scanner that is not yet resolved. Beyond that issue though, there aren't any "inserted frames" into the final captured video file. The stock firmware places the images into a 20fps file (which would therefore playback at an incorrect speed and could be easily and losslessly adjusted to the native frame rate of the original footage (16, 18, or 24) without adding or removing frames. 0dan0 improved this by allowing us to set the native frame rate (as metadata) during capture so that we no longer have to do that step in post. Beyond this, some of us use software to later interpolate the native frame rate up to 24 fps (Optical Flow, Speed Warp, etc), which we all know does introduce artifacts, but those are artifacts we opted into in order to achieve a persistence of vision consistent with what most folks are used to seeing today. Interpolating to 24p also has the convenience of fitting nicely into standard delivery specs.

Custom firmware for this hardware is probably, to your point, 'pig cosmetics' where the highest possible quality is the utmost goal. Unfortunately there's not really any better alternatives in this price range (I swear, though, if there was an alternative model of this form factor that truly had improved optics/sensor/settings/code that cost 2x or 3x the price of this Kodak model, I would have gladly thrown my money at that).

 

[Tony]

Hmmm.. not quite how it works. While there is some disagreement on the resolution resolved for CFA Bayer sensor, it is not half as you theorized, and we aren't get 4:4:4 color from H264 (there would be very little benefit). The sensor has a photo readout mode (not used) and a video read-out (used here) that is a native center crop of 1920x1440 from the tiny sensor (it is a 12bit linear light readout. ) The 1600x1200 is windowed from that. There is a plan to reduce to a native 1440x1080, as I recently determined that there is some read-out noise at 1600x1200. Using a conservative 75% (luma res) for what a CFA Bayer image can resolve, 1440x1080 will resolve a tad more than 8mm film can deliver at an estimated 4000dpi maximum. This is only achieved with the 12mm lens swap. Story is sadder with the stock lens.

I do agree that change in the light could be a benefit, that would be a great hardware hack, as the firmware hack already supports disabling all RGB gains.

In the firmware side, I still need to find where the black level is controlled, as that is wrong for red channel for many film stocks. It will help with negative scanning, which the current set-up is near hopeless for.

Out of Curiosity - What is the sensor and is it consistent across device versions?

T

 

[0dan0]

Out of Curiosity - What is the sensor and is it consistent across device versions?

T

Aptina AR0330. Yes on all models I've seen. This not the sensor claimed on the back of the unit.

 

[videodoctor]

Claude.ai made me aware of all the great mods and community around the Kodak Reels digitizer, and I made the decision to buy one this week on Amazon. I received it yesterday, and as I suspected, the serial number is a newer one that, based on what I've read here, is the Firmware D variant.

I'm a solutions architect with a decent background in software development over the years---I got "heavy" into OOP with ActionScript 3 and Flash related applications before Flash was replaced, and I've programmed in Java, PHP, C#, Perl, and a bit of Python over the years. I haven't dug deep into where the code repositories may (or may not) be for all of the great mods 0dan0 and others have posted here. I've specialized in streaming technologies for most of my professional career, and have compiled C++ libs for FFmpeg, Bento, and other open source video tools.

I'd like to contribute if I can to helping build and test a Firmware D mod. Is there a primer on mod development posted? Thanks in advance!

 

[0dan0]

There is very steep learning curve to bring type D's up to date, so I will be getting one this weekend to help speed-up the conversion. However I do welcome new developers as there is still so much that should be improved.

Tools I use:
Serial port enabled Kodak Reels, info here: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1htmhRHyY_kEjoiTgSInV0PeXvzyXTMaXDYJ_3Ai4A4A/
Decompiling: https://github.com/NationalSecurityAgency/ghidra
Hexeditor with MIPS assemble decoding: https://www.sweetscape.com/010editor/

Once the Type D port is complete, many of the enhancements are now in C code. https://github.com/0dan0/4reels

I do plan on creating a workflow video using the C code, but likely after D port.

 

[SkipBurg]

Claude.ai made me aware of all the great mods and community around the Kodak Reels digitizer, and I made the decision to buy one this week on Amazon. I received it yesterday, and as I suspected, the serial number is a newer one that, based on what I've read here, is the Firmware D variant.

I'm a solutions architect with a decent background in software development over the years---I got "heavy" into OOP with ActionScript 3 and Flash related applications before Flash was replaced, and I've programmed in Java, PHP, C#, Perl, and a bit of Python over the years. I haven't dug deep into where the code repositories may (or may not) be for all of the great mods 0dan0 and others have posted here. I've specialized in streaming technologies for most of my professional career, and have compiled C++ libs for FFmpeg, Bento, and other open source video tools.

I'd like to contribute if I can to helping build and test a Firmware D mod. Is there a primer on mod development posted? Thanks in advance!

Newbie question, I’m assuming that if my serial number starts with D I have the D variant?

 

[0dan0]

Newbie question, I’m assuming that if my serial number starts with D I have the D variant?

While D2825 is Type D, so is the more common H2825, and maybe other first letters.

A2021 A
J2021 A
M2021 A
P2021 A
A2022 A

M2023 B
A2724 B
E3124 B

H2324 C
K3124 C
C1725 C

D2825 D
H2825 D

A0725 Unknown

I believe the xxx25 is the manufacturing year. As the run out of particular parts, due to availability or cost, they change the firmware to accommodate.

 

[videodoctor]

There is very steep learning curve to bring type D's up to date, so I will be getting one this weekend to help speed-up the conversion. However I do welcome new developers as there is still so much that should be improved.

Tools I use:
Serial port enabled Kodak Reels, info here: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1htmhRHyY_kEjoiTgSInV0PeXvzyXTMaXDYJ_3Ai4A4A/
Decompiling: https://github.com/NationalSecurityAgency/ghidra
Hexeditor with MIPS assemble decoding: https://www.sweetscape.com/010editor/

Once the Type D port is complete, many of the enhancements are now in C code. https://github.com/0dan0/4reels

I do plan on creating a workflow video using the C code, but likely after D port.

Thank you for the quick reply, @0dan0 ! That's quite the process to get a dump of the Kodak Reels firmware! Has someone already gotten a dump of the D variant firmware? I think I saw a restore D firmware on the TinkerDifferent firmware page, and as such, presume someone's already got it. What are the big changes with the D firmware? Sounds pretty intense from your comments.

 

[videodoctor]

Newbie question, I’m assuming that if my serial number starts with D I have the D variant?

From what is posted on this site:

"If your serial number starts with, or is similar to H2825148BKxxxxx this may be a new "D" revision firmware"

As far as I can tell, the labeling of A, B, C and now D is the convention that the generous developers on this site have used to identify the different versions of the scanner made since its inception.

 

[0dan0]

Thank you for the quick reply, @0dan0 ! That's quite the process to get a dump of the Kodak Reels firmware! Has someone already gotten a dump of the D variant firmware? I think I saw a restore D firmware on the TinkerDifferent firmware page, and as such, presume someone's already got it. What are the big changes with the D firmware? Sounds pretty intense from your comments.

Attached to the Type D installer firmware (.BIN) and uncompressed binary (.RBN, use this in Ghidra and editing) in a zip. This is unmodified, stock firmware.

For Types A, B and C, there are about 12 months of changes, I don't remember how I determine some of them. Finding the sufficient memory for the relocation of the larger frame buffers was months of trial and error. The original firmware only used a max of ~800x600, versus 1600x1200 today. This is maintained by @ThePhage as breakdown of the hacks so far https://tinkerdifferent.com/resourc...irmware-for-the-reels-8mm-film-digitizer.165/

 

[videodoctor]

So much excellent information on this forum and thread! @0dan0 , I saw your posts related to lens modification here:

https://tinkerdifferent.com/threads/hacking-the-kodak-reels-8mm-film-digitizer-new-thread.4885/page-2#post-42773

Has anyone produce a guide for modification the area around the lens for the 12mm?
Is only one locking ring required for the mod? (The page shows two rings, metal vs plastic. Metal looks more durable.)

I'd like to get my D version updated while an updated mod is underway. It looks like you had to cut or melt some plastic away around the original lens and sensor assembly to fit the new lens. I don't have a 3D printer--is anyone selling the modifications that you've supplied the 3D files for? Thanks again for all the great information here.

 

[0dan0]

So much excellent information on this forum and thread! @0dan0 , I saw your posts related to lens modification here:

https://tinkerdifferent.com/threads/hacking-the-kodak-reels-8mm-film-digitizer-new-thread.4885/page-2#post-42773

Has anyone produce a guide for modification the area around the lens for the 12mm?
Is only one locking ring required for the mod? (The page shows two rings, metal vs plastic. Metal looks more durable.)

I'd like to get my D version updated while an updated mod is underway. It looks like you had to cut or melt some plastic away around the original lens and sensor assembly to fit the new lens. I don't have a 3D printer--is anyone selling the modifications that you've supplied the 3D files for? Thanks again for all the great information here.

No guide for the case mod, but I've done four now. However, you should begin the hardware modification until the new firmware is available for Type D units.

1) Remove the camera cover, there are two clip on top and two on bottom, it will just pop off with a little work.
2) Unscrew the four screws from camera module from the mount. Save those screws.
3) pull gently on the ribbon cable to have some room to move the camera out of the way.
4) The hard part, cut the plastic above ~5mm by ~25mm, above the camera mount (without hurting the ribbon cable.) I have use the tip of soldering iron to do most of the cutting.
5) then add the 3D print parts (two screws for each layer)

Use https://printathing.com/order/ to order the parts.

 

[klaatu]

Can you quantify the improvement with the lens modification?
I think I'm inclined to just go with the firmware upgrade and leave the lens as is.

 

[0dan0]

Can you quantify the improvement with the lens modification?
I think I'm inclined to just go with the firmware upgrade and leave the lens as is.

Stock lens resolves about 640x480 for an 8mm frame. Film is about 4000 dpi as the active frame is about 7mm wide (Super8), theoretical resolution = 4000 * 7/25.4 = ~1100 pixels (~1100x820), so you are losing some details. With the 12mm lens, you are using ~1440x1080 to resolve ~1100x820. There is a visible benefit. See

 

[ph4z]

[...]These wedges make it much easier to face you while working on it. [...]

View attachment 25817

Maybe noob questions, but can you explain why you want it at an angle "to face you"? Is this like for easier loading or does it help in the capture or something?

 

[videodoctor]

No guide for the case mod, but I've done four now. However, you should begin the hardware modification until the new firmware is available for Type D units.

1) Remove the camera cover, there are two clip on top and two on bottom, it will just pop off with a little work.
2) Unscrew the four screws from camera module from the mount. Save those screws.
3) pull gently on the ribbon cable to have some room to move the camera out of the way.
4) The hard part, cut the plastic above ~5mm by ~25mm, above the camera mount (without hurting the ribbon cable.) I have use the tip of soldering iron to do most of the cutting.
5) then add the 3D print parts (two screws for each layer)

Use https://printathing.com/order/ to order the parts.

View attachment 25895

Thanks again, @0dan0 , for posting details. I think I might try my Dremel with a 426 wheel to make the cuts--very carefully! I've used this before. I'd like to see if a better plastic cover could be made to accommodate this new height so that the parts aren't left exposed so easily.

 

[0dan0]

Thanks again, @0dan0 , for posting details. I think I might try my Dremel with a 426 wheel to make the cuts--very carefully! I've used this before. I'd like to see if a better plastic cover could be made to accommodate this new height so that the parts aren't left exposed so easily.

I have used a dremel too, it will work. 3D printing a new camera housing is something I started to design, never got far on that.

 

[klaatu]

Stock lens resolves about 640x480 for an 8mm frame. Film is about 4000 dpi as the active frame is about 7mm wide (Super8), theoretical resolution = 4000 * 7/25.4 = ~1100 pixels (~1100x820), so you are losing some details. With the 12mm lens, you are using ~1440x1080 to resolve ~1100x820. There is a visible benefit. See

I want to make sure I understand this. Are you saying that the 8mm lens is capturing a much larger area than it needs to, and that effectively the area surrounding the frame is digitally cropped leaving only the desired image. But in doing so, a large portion of the sensor's captured image is lost/tossed. Hence the resulting usable pixels are only 640x480? Whereas the 12mm lens zooms up on the frame, thus reducing the area that is digitally cropped out.

In the menu, you adjust/frame the image to be captured. Is there any impairment to this function with the 12mm lens?

How is this 12mm lens focused?

 

[0dan0]

Yes, this has all been explained in detail in the original thread (hours for reading for you.)

This image is from Feb 2025 (https://tinkerdifferent.com/threads...-film-digitizer-firmware-hack.2897/post-35256)

This is what the stock lens sees when using the whole sensor (as much I could get to work.) The lens is crazy wide for an 8mm subject.

I should be now clear that the original lens was not designed to scan 8mm film, although it would be pretty good for 16mm (I completely different hack idea to make this a 16mm scanner.)

This example is with the 12mm lens, using the same sensor readout window (as above):

12mm is pretty ideal, scan around a non-upscaled 1080p for the active picture.


> How is this 12mm lens focused?

Twisting it while scanning, pretty easy.