Hacking the Kodak Reels 8mm Film Digitizer (New Thread)

ThePhage

Tinkerer
Oct 30, 2024
45
36
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Hello Everyone
I too am very impressed by this very activ Forum, which inspired me to order a Kodak reel. I am based in Europe and sadly I received a D-Typ yesterday.
(H2825148BKxxxxx). So I guess I will have to wait a while till I can install the new Firmware, is that correct?
Also after unpacking I noticed that the 8mm to super8mm handle was stuck about 1/2 cm under the opening and also the SD card reader was not aligned with the slit of the cover. After opening everything, I could shift the loose mechanics into the correct position. It works all fine now, but has anyone had the same issue?
Best Regards
Roderick
I don't think others have reported that specific issue in these threads. My 2 cents... it may be worth requesting a replacement unit. While you might be able to snap things into their right place, it could be that there are other build quality issues connected to the body mis-alignment. Some folks have reported on how delicate some of the inner components are and a weak connection may not fully manifest until after having used the unit for a while.

Also, since there is no custom firmware for the D unit yet, you've got some time to attempt a replacement with your seller.
 

ThePhage

Tinkerer
Oct 30, 2024
45
36
18
Hi - New Forum user (so be gentle).

Love the "hacking" you have done, but question the value of some of the efforts.

First - the sensor is a CMOS 3280x2464 which really means a 1640x1232 pixel image capability after combining the 4 color cells (R-Gb-Gr-B) which can either integrate to 10 or 12 bits/pixel typically A-Law companded to make 24 bit RGB (Assuming typical cmos image sensor operations). But this then needs to be mangled into 720p ( 1280x720) or 1080p (1920 x 1080) and time slapped from 18fps or 16fps to 24fps to be playable. Throwing a $90 lens at the problem seems like pig cosmetics, however, optics is always the bane of good scanning.

Eliminating and stabilizing the color and white balance are great - but the goal should be to get the best image out of the sensor without adding all manner of conversion artifacts in the process. This means keeping a 720p output based on a 1280x720 sensor window judiciously selected from the sensor view; attempting to up-convert or compress frames simply adds artifacts, not detail.

If you REALLY want 1080p, a 12MP sensor (e.g. Sony IMX477) will provide an output of 2028x1520 which can produce a "real" 1080p output and worthy of the 12mm Macro lens. That would require a processor upgrade, say a Raspberry Pi CM4 and a carrier suitably equipped with some integration to the screen, buttons, and motor; definitely not for the faint of heart, but reasonably doable. This also pushes the limits of the film's resolution but does "honestly" double the scanning quality.

The goal, in any case, should be a true one-to-one raw sequence of digitalized frames without any 720p/1080p conversion or speed artifacts (e.g. inserted frames); i.e., RAW. Finagling color balance and speed in a later digital stage is far less frustrating than trying to crowbar an underpowered SOC to do more than it was ever designed to do. If you're going to use the full capabilities of the existing sensor, then find a way to pad the image to fill the 1080p frame, or stick to 720p with an under scan optically selected from the frame. That is 2.8 (720) or 6.2 (1080) MB/Frame uncompressed that may reasonably compressed - i.e. keep the largest bitrate possible.

One thing I never saw in the thread (sorry - it is WAY too long; maybe a wiki is needed to separate the journey from the results/recommendations) is modifying the light source to allow adjustment of the illumination color balance, rather than trying to constantly apply conversions during scanning. This can be done with a three color led light source tuning or optical filters. Catching and analyzing the sprocket hole leakage would allow dynamic adjustment against source illumination as well, but probably not possible on this platform (especially with ONLY 128MB frame buffer : did I read that correctly?).

However - the results of this team's efforts is phenomenal given the base material! I will be looking for a unit to modify given the head start available herein.

T
I appreciate the amount of technical detail you included here - you probably fit in nicely with the tinkerers here. 0dan0 already addressed some of the points you raised regarding the sensor. So I'll just add a couple of my reflections on your post.

Not sure if I understood your comment about "time slapping." If you're referring to the sensor & transport cadence/timing issues that result in "frame jitter/distortion" then yes, that is royally annoying and the one big item about this scanner that is not yet resolved. Beyond that issue though, there aren't any "inserted frames" into the final captured video file. The stock firmware places the images into a 20fps file (which would therefore playback at an incorrect speed and could be easily and losslessly adjusted to the native frame rate of the original footage (16, 18, or 24) without adding or removing frames. 0dan0 improved this by allowing us to set the native frame rate (as metadata) during capture so that we no longer have to do that step in post. Beyond this, some of us use software to later interpolate the native frame rate up to 24 fps (Optical Flow, Speed Warp, etc), which we all know does introduce artifacts, but those are artifacts we opted into in order to achieve a persistence of vision consistent with what most folks are used to seeing today. Interpolating to 24p also has the convenience of fitting nicely into standard delivery specs.

Custom firmware for this hardware is probably, to your point, 'pig cosmetics' where the highest possible quality is the utmost goal. Unfortunately there's not really any better alternatives in this price range (I swear, though, if there was an alternative model of this form factor that truly had improved optics/sensor/settings/code that cost 2x or 3x the price of this Kodak model, I would have gladly thrown my money at that).
 

Tony

New Tinkerer
Dec 29, 2025
2
1
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Hmmm.. not quite how it works. While there is some disagreement on the resolution resolved for CFA Bayer sensor, it is not half as you theorized, and we aren't get 4:4:4 color from H264 (there would be very little benefit). The sensor has a photo readout mode (not used) and a video read-out (used here) that is a native center crop of 1920x1440 from the tiny sensor (it is a 12bit linear light readout. ) The 1600x1200 is windowed from that. There is a plan to reduce to a native 1440x1080, as I recently determined that there is some read-out noise at 1600x1200. Using a conservative 75% (luma res) for what a CFA Bayer image can resolve, 1440x1080 will resolve a tad more than 8mm film can deliver at an estimated 4000dpi maximum. This is only achieved with the 12mm lens swap. Story is sadder with the stock lens.

I do agree that change in the light could be a benefit, that would be a great hardware hack, as the firmware hack already supports disabling all RGB gains.

In the firmware side, I still need to find where the black level is controlled, as that is wrong for red channel for many film stocks. It will help with negative scanning, which the current set-up is near hopeless for.
Out of Curiosity - What is the sensor and is it consistent across device versions?

T