Hi guys, I have some newbie questions about post-scanning enhancement of the footage.
Like you, I am relatively new to Davinci Resolve (DR), however I've had semi-professional experience (and a lot of amateur/hobby experience) with Final Cut Pro and Adobe Premiere. Here is a brief summary/recomendations on
my approach to the Post-scan process:
1. Take some time to determine your process so you can be consistent throughout and not have to re-do your efforts half-way through. So, do some testing with some footage, go through the entire process from start to finish, and document it so you can repeat it for each reel you work on.
2. Learn well your edting tool (whether Davinci Resolve or whatever NLE you're using). Check on YouTube (and use some Gen AI tools like ChatGPT) for training information on general editing tips and techniques. Even learning some keyboard shortcuts can help speed up your workflow.
3. If using 0dan0's firmware, set the correct frame rate during capture/scan: typically 16fps for 8mm (althought occasionally 18), and 18fps for Super8 (or occasionally 24). If unsure during scanning, don't worry, you can losslessly adjust this after scanning.
4. Before scanning, several frames into the first reel, adjust the scanner framing/Zoom to scan just a little wider than the full frame itself (crop it in post)
5. In your NLE (Davinci Resolve or otherwise), set your project/sequence to a standard HD resolution (1920x1080, or it's 4x3 counterpart: 1440x1080) at the same frame rate as your native footage (16, 18 or possibly 24). On the "Format" settings for the timeline, set "Mismatched Resolution" to "Center Crop with No Resizing." This way, when you add footage to your timeline that's larger than 1080p into your 1080p timeline, the footage can be scaled down without loosing quality.
6. After adding footage to your timeline, adjust the "Transform" settings of the clip(s) to zoom and position the footage to just barely crop off the edges of the film frame in the timeline. The position may shift through-out a long scan, especially if multiple small reels were spliced together into a larger reel, so scrub through the footage on your timeline to different areas to see if/how the position shifts over time. If it shifts drammaticaly, consider cutting into smaller clips and adjust transform individually.
7. Consider using the "detect scene cuts" feature for your timeline. Remove any over/under-exposed frames (often the first frame after a cut in the footage). Remove the heads and tails or anything that obviously doesn't belong in the finished product.
Basic Filters:
8. Using the "Color" mode in DR, add some serial nodes (for filters) to the
entire timeline: My first node is Noise Reduction (I use the paid Neat plugin, but DR Studio also has it's own. Learn and know your NR tool well. Be careful to not overdue it by trying to make your 8mm film look like noise-less digital video. Second node for the timeline is DR's sharpening tools (mid-detail to 50 and reduce blur to 45) - but this is preferential and dependant upon the "sharpen" setting that you use while scanning (I favor -1.5, or possibly -1 with a modified scanner lens). 3rd node for the entire time is for a slight, overall color correction if I didn't nail it during capture (I simply adjust Temp and Tint adjustments). There's obviously a lot more that could be done regarding color & brightness, but hopefully the initial capture got it right the first time around (easier with 0dan0's Auto Exposure controls, bias, lock, etc). And shot-by-shot correction can be done, but that will add to the time needed to finish the process.
9. Once I'm happy with all of that, I typically export that as it's own "master file" in ProRes 422 (although some may prefer ProRes 422 HQ). This preserves the native frame rate of the footage. Alternatively, it may work to nest that timeline into another timeline for the next step, but nested timelines in DR don't always behave nicely.
Frame Rate Interpolation (to 24p, a personal preference). It is a "drastic" change from the native footage, but I think most casual viewers will appreciate it, as it feels more like the movies they are used to watching):
10. I will typically take that ProRes file and bring it into a new timeline that is set to 24fps. I will use DR's Optical Flow (AI Speed Warp) setting to interpolate the 16 or 18fps footage to 24p. To do this well, it is best to
first split the entire timeline into it's individual clips first (so that the interpolation doesn't akwardly morph/blend consecutive clips together).
11. Then, in the Color mode, I add a node to the entire timeline with DR's Film Grain effect. I have found the 16mm Preset with an opacity of 0.8 is about right. Adding this grain effect in the 24p timeline instead of the earlier native frame rate will help make the 24p interpolation seem legitimate/authentic.
12. Add a simple, boring title at the head (white text on black background) to introduce the reel and provide some date/people/location information. For some fun effect, add some subtle "projector running" sound effect to the duration of the timeline.
13. Export a "24p Master file" using ProRes 422.
Delivery:
14. Transcode that 24p master file in Handbrake (for x264 codec) with a preset that meets your needs (ideally with constant quality around RF 20, as previously mentioned). This MP4, perhaps with some added metadata (title, genre, type, date, etc), is the final deliverable to friends/family.
15. As 0dan0 mentioned, if you're going to upload to YouTube, it would be best to scale up to 4k in a high quality format: this will preserve detail and grain of your footage after YouTube transcodes it into it's various destination resolutions.
16. Tell your firends and family who are watching this footage to turn off their TV's damned settings that interpolates up to 60p! It's ludicrous!
In the near future, I hope to provide a resource (possibly here at TinkerDifferent) that documents in better detail my personal process, from start to finish, with scanning, editing, and delivering, footage scanned with a firmware-modified Reels Scanner.