It's great to know that, take a look at my screenshots!
Whoa, @Kay K.M.Mods!
Another coincidence! Cool!
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A takky Mac…..
- Thread starter -SE40-
- Start date
Whoa, @Kay K.M.Mods!
Another coincidence! Cool!
666….satanic
Change of plan,…….
The concept to use and fill the original CRT with resin did optically work very well.
(No internal reflections or whasoever)
Setback I could only create one piece,
and is still a lot of work.
As Ive drawn the CRT glass section a while back, the idea came to me to recreate the complete CRT frontsection in optical glassclear resin.
That would involve creating a full mould.
This is a lot of work…..
Combining the CRT glass with a supportmould will create an accurate CRT shape and save time in the process.
Here the steps made sofar….
….more next week.
The concept to use and fill the original CRT with resin did optically work very well.
(No internal reflections or whasoever)
Setback I could only create one piece,
and is still a lot of work.
As Ive drawn the CRT glass section a while back, the idea came to me to recreate the complete CRT frontsection in optical glassclear resin.
That would involve creating a full mould.
This is a lot of work…..
Combining the CRT glass with a supportmould will create an accurate CRT shape and save time in the process.
Here the steps made sofar….
….more next week.
the mould came out perfectly fine this morning….
About five weeks ago ive bought two packages of one liter UV resistant clear resin sets (for another project)
The first bottle only had a 100grams of resin left was ok, mixed it up and poured that in the mould.
Opening the new bottle showed it did crystallize…..or something like that….so this is the end for the joy of today
Hi, Thanks!
Hope it works out ok….
This stuff is pricy.
For the making of the master mould,
check post 63.
As I used the original CRT glass in the master, the curvature cant be far off.
Less than 1% as I understand
Hope it works out ok….
This stuff is pricy.
For the making of the master mould,
check post 63.
As I used the original CRT glass in the master, the curvature cant be far off.
Less than 1% as I understand
Update….
1% shrinkage……Well, this true.
Unfortunately the material is thicker in the middle and so additional causes a slight surface deformation, aswell causing a light bend.
On itself not a real problem, only that I actually need a higher mould.
This way I can cut a slice off the lens and flatten it out.
Hopefully getting to that this weekend.
1% shrinkage……Well, this true.
Unfortunately the material is thicker in the middle and so additional causes a slight surface deformation, aswell causing a light bend.
On itself not a real problem, only that I actually need a higher mould.
This way I can cut a slice off the lens and flatten it out.
Hopefully getting to that this weekend.
That is a good start @-SE40-! I wonder if the following can clear up to make it a lot more transparent?
- Wet sand
- Rub on corkboard
- Polish with a microfiber cloth
Those processes can indeed be applied…
but its very time consuming.
The frontside and the material as a whole is pretty smooth (like the original) and crystal clear.
Its the backside that needs the additional work.
Ive roughly sanded it flat for now.
My aim is to cut out a chunk,
to get the display as far forward as possible.
More next!
(added pic for clarification)
but its very time consuming.
The frontside and the material as a whole is pretty smooth (like the original) and crystal clear.
Its the backside that needs the additional work.
Ive roughly sanded it flat for now.
My aim is to cut out a chunk,
to get the display as far forward as possible.
More next!
(added pic for clarification)
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Next…..
Cutting a flat surface and border for the display went well.
The display gets mounted to the
(white-later black) border with double sided tape.
The subassembly then fits the curved glass.
This way it can be disassembled if needed.
Now some polishing to do……
Cutting a flat surface and border for the display went well.
The display gets mounted to the
(white-later black) border with double sided tape.
The subassembly then fits the curved glass.
This way it can be disassembled if needed.
Now some polishing to do……
Attachments
Following with great interest, best of luck getting this worked out. Wondering if milling a convex back surface for a two part mold might be an approach to try. smoothing and polishing a convex surface is oh so much easier than concave surface work. 
Just in case:
I've got a thread about vacuum forming plexi using the CRT itself as the buck (mold) but was using the plexi scrap I have on hand. Results almost there, excellent, if not perfect. Material needs to be a much thinner sheet to work. There's info about that over at the MLA. Results were amazing, but don't recall offhand who pulled that off or if the process used was vacuum forming or drooping?
Just in case:
I've got a thread about vacuum forming plexi using the CRT itself as the buck (mold) but was using the plexi scrap I have on hand. Results almost there, excellent, if not perfect. Material needs to be a much thinner sheet to work. There's info about that over at the MLA. Results were amazing, but don't recall offhand who pulled that off or if the process used was vacuum forming or drooping?
Glad you and maybe others enjoy following my trials here.
Best of luck, indeed,…
…………….thats what we need in life!
If this effort does not work as expected,
I (and youall!) may have learned
a few interresting thinKs.
Next to that I can still use my initial CRT-to-LCD
real-glass conversion.
No problem
A two part mould would be great indeed.
For now overkill, just and only to see / experience using this new concept in real life.
As for vacuumforming, its proven that it works,
if done right.
Makers are selling those on etsy at a fair price.
Best of luck, indeed,…
…………….thats what we need in life!
If this effort does not work as expected,
I (and youall!) may have learned
a few interresting thinKs.
Next to that I can still use my initial CRT-to-LCD
real-glass conversion.
No problem
A two part mould would be great indeed.
For now overkill, just and only to see / experience using this new concept in real life.
As for vacuumforming, its proven that it works,
if done right.
Makers are selling those on etsy at a fair price.
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After finesanding a first polish…..not to shabby at all
Looks pretty clear to me sofar…..
Very nice! how are you limiting the sanding/polishing to only the display area?
Got linkage to the vacuum formed bubbles on etsy? That process better have been perfected by now. My stuff was done back in January, 2013!
Got linkage to the vacuum formed bubbles on etsy? That process better have been perfected by now. My stuff was done back in January, 2013!
Yes. Only the visible section.
The rest should become black.
Vacuum forming is a good solution for many products. Transparent is bit harder to keep the thickness overall about the same.
The trouble with some thermoplastics is that these are mostly realively soft.
And so scratches/damages more quickly.
PLEXIGLAS®- cast resinsheetmaterial is a bit more durable and more scratch resistant.
Thats why ive gone this route/exploration.
Real glass, model pressed is actually the final and only superior solution in this matter. Just like the CRT ….
Any members here running a glass shop?
The rest should become black.
Vacuum forming is a good solution for many products. Transparent is bit harder to keep the thickness overall about the same.
The trouble with some thermoplastics is that these are mostly realively soft.
And so scratches/damages more quickly.
PLEXIGLAS®- cast resinsheetmaterial is a bit more durable and more scratch resistant.
Thats why ive gone this route/exploration.
Real glass, model pressed is actually the final and only superior solution in this matter. Just like the CRT ….
Any members here running a glass shop?
I was playing at making a 1/8" MacQuarium bubble, so that was the way to go at the time. Affordable LCDs were still a thing of the future in terms of availability/price point.
Something you might want to try is aquarium background adhesive, an optically clear gel for sticking decorative backgrounds on fish tank. It really makes the backgrounds pop compared to just taping the background on. It might make the LCD look shaper by filling the tiny air gap between the panel and the resin piece. I think it's viscous enough that it won't seep anywhere you don't want it and cause damage.
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