A takky Mac…..

[-SE40-]

@mg.man glad youre gonna give the SE/30boards a next chance

Sure, 3D printing is an option for recreating a frame.
Personally I am not in favor using abs/pla material as a choice for this purpose.

As for (vac)forming a tubes glass, thats been done before.
It also not something I wouldlike to look trough
- (at a display)

But you can try!
🛠

 

[Trash80toG4]

Sure, 3D printing is an option for recreating a frame.
Personally I am not in favor using abs/pla material as a choice for this purpose.

Concur, your router cut chassis has better rigidity than large printed parts I would think.

Can't believe I entirely forgot about your detailed updates on page two, anyone following along or new to the thread needs to take a look. Your illustration definitely needs reposting at this point:

That's beautiful modeling of the Classic bezel. I am so jealous of your access to CNC toys for this project.

I thought this was an SE/SE30 build? For those, adding the support structure for the breakout board would be in order. Thinking would be raised profile of the back piece and mounting a setback piece on studs would work nicely if the planes don't match up as is?

Ends of PC backplane plate of the CF adapter assembly would be trimmed off as it's a near perfect fit.

Drill/router cut a hole for WiFi antenna spaced just so and the card won't look off center. Fold antenna straight down/out when installing/removing the bucket. You could also rout a slot for that nice, clicky SD extension cable. As I mentioned, IDE to SD is also a thing, FDD port would work for that in a 128K/512K bucket build.

You'd mentioned sticking CF out the FDD opening. Ass end would be more elegant I think?

 

[-SE40-]

WoW!
@Trash80toG4 ,
Thats a whole lot of credits,
much appreciated!……no need for envy.
I am sure many here, and yourself
have exceptional qualitys /craftsmanship.

As for this project, its still a work in progress.
My wish is that the frame fits all of the
compact Mac series…not just the SE or SE30.
The backplane plate for the connectors
can be standard per model, or custom created.
CF-card IDE position is another detail.
Currently I aim to place it in the front FDD
hidden in a floppy sized holder.
In the end its just whats actually conveniant/works.

Thanks again!
All have a great weekend!

 

[mg.man]

Concur, your router cut chassis has better rigidity than large printed parts I would think.

We should not forget that the weight of what is being supported is far less than a CRT, analog board, PSU, etc. Also, rigidity can be increased with internal "ribs", etc. My reason for mentioning was more accessibility - esp. if @-SE40- does not intend to produce / sell these... oh, and obsession, I want one!!

 

[Trash80toG4]

Yep, considered the truss/honeycomb/etc. design possibilities of printing. But the parts are overly large for printing, even done in sections I think. What would that quantity of filament cost?

CNC router cutting or better yet, laser cut panels have got to cost a lot less made to order than printed parts, no? Most of us lack production capability for any of those CNC methods in house.

I'm tending to prefer laser cutting for true, sharp cornered rectangular mortise and tenon jointery. @-SE40- from the looks of your drawing I was thinking you might be laser equipped as well as having router table capability?

The Compact's front bezel supports the CRT and Bucket braces it. Chassis doesn't need to lift that heavy a load or provide back bracing. The A/B makes for a sturdy cross brace/kicker when the bucket's pulled.

 

[-SE40-]

- Yesterday mgman suggested I would not be interrested in producing/selling parts…-

As its a experimental-exploration project for now, with the end closing in
This setup needs further dimensional & detail perfection. There is no timeline for this, but it should not be too long now.

Just for the good order…..and to be clear
The designconcept shown here is licenced under Common Creatives - NonCommercial 4.0 International-(CC BY-NC 4.0) -creativecommons.org-

For distribution of this and other projects ive started a github account last month.
With that, anyone can download the DXF/STEP/STL files and create his own frameset for personal non commercial use only.
Modified versions need to be reshared under the CC-licence.
If there is a larger demand for complete material flatpack framekits, I may offer these.

Hope this covers all questions about that.
Otherwise, just ask.

 

[mg.man]

- Yesterday mgman suggested I would not be interrested in producing/selling parts…-

Ooo... didn't mean to force your hand or anything, also didn't want to pressure you, just simply trying to convey it's such a cool project, it would be a shame for it to be destined to one-off-ness... of course, that *would* make it all the more exclusive, and *even more desirable*!

 

[mg.man]

For distribution of this and other projects ive started a github account ... If there is a larger demand for complete material flatpack framekits, I may offer these.

Way cool!! It sounds like you have everything covered, happy to assist if there's anything you find you need (donor bits, etc.).

 

[-SE40-]

Thanks for your offer and understanding!

 

[Trash80toG4]

Your chassis design has the wheels spinning in my head for a slotted together clear acrylic chassis for the milky clear SE/30 prototyping case @MacEffects so generously sent my way.

Your CNC router table has me wondering about V-grooving top and bottom surfaces of a plexi chassis blank to then be routed out in the form of the original, single piece sheet metal part. V-grooving makes for accurate, sharp bends in the original concept. V-grooves on both sides required to do the expansion card mounting ears.

Love your project and thanks much for the brain food!

 

[mg.man]

a slotted together clear acrylic chassis

I was thinking along similar lines... but IMO some contrast is in order. Rather than clear on clear... what about black/smoke acrylic for the chassis?

 

[Trash80toG4]

< tangential turn >

Mine'd be clear behind hazy clear from his first almost perfect run of buckets.

If it'll withstand heat during bending, engine turned white gold mirroring, backed with clear varnish would be see-thru, much like gilded fire fighter face shields.

Problem there is that downturn/upturn of base, side and deck are on opposing surfaces. Masking sections off might work? Glue chipping would be more Snow White correct and more interesting, but that would require faking it up by screen printed matte center effect.

My kinda peeples: https://davidadriansmith.com/project/letterheads-glass-signs/

Letterheads rule!

< /tangent >

 

[-SE40-]

Lasercutting acrylics should be no problem.
Suspect you should go over 3mm to get some stability from that.

If you guys like tranparent/color so much, why not cast it in a mould?
Any added colormix glitter or items is then posible

 

[-SE40-]

Solved the connectorshield issue.
Its become now removable,….
This way individual changes can simply be made.
Added also a support for the mains connector and switch.
(SE30 enclosure only)

 

[Trash80toG4]

Fantabulous! What CAD package are you using for this?

At first I thought you were suggesting a complex injection style mold, but it seems right for resin casting it in a flat mold. Nice part about that would be the ability to polish the surfaces while it's flat. The V-grooves for bending would be molded as would the mortise and tenon joints for alignment while the bend line cools in place.

You'd be able to machine the top and bottom mold sections! If someone wants to make and ship the unpolished blanks flat pack style the box wouldn't be overly large?

TinkerTerrific!

 

[-SE40-]

Hey there!
Thanks again, but its all not that spectacular.
Once youve got the idea/engineering right to the concept solution, its just CAD time & prototyping.
I use solidworks btw.

That is why I suggested you
to have a look at Siemens Solidedge.
Its very similar to SW, just try it,
you never look back.

Reproduction:
You can CNC route a mould,
or even cast the mould itself.
But all that resin stuff aint cheap.
Bending cast thermohardeners
with temperature is prob no option.

Anyhow, casting is just one option
suggested if you want glitters or other stuff inside a seetrough,
this is the route to go.
Agree, it can look amazing in your
transparent case…..

For me, 2mm(stainless) steel or 3mm ali is the choice.
I stick to the 3mm plywood for the prototypes for now.

 

[Trash80toG4]

Bending cast thermohardeners
with temperature is prob no option.

Interesting, hadn't though that to be a problem. Can it be solvenf fume polished like filament prints? If so, might solvent bending/bonding be a possibility? The V-gooved channels in the blank coud be perfect for that I think?

Anyhow, casting is just one option
suggested if you want glitters or other stuff inside a seetrough,
this is the route to go.
Agree, it can look amazing in your
transparent case…..

Not my style, but others might be interested in that kind of chassis.

For me, 2mm(stainless) steel or 3mm ali is the choice.
I stick to the 3mm plywood for the prototypes for now.

No THAT is my style! The only CNC option readily available to me here is water jet. 3mm aluminum diamond plate would be my choice I think? Jetting a series of small holes along the bend lines to assist in that process and keep them straight wile using hand tools is something I've had tucked away in my head for a very long time, since I first saw a water jet in the nineties.

Are they laser cutting aluminum now? Heat transfer characteristics mad that problematic in the early days. Had a great box and pan brake in the shop, but you can't duplicate the iterative stamping operations necessary to accomplish a complex form like a Compact chassis with a brake.

 

[-SE40-]

Here a Ali 1,5mm lasercut edge…
Cutting Ali is no problem anymore.
Stainless is a bit smoother…

 

[Trash80toG4]

HRMMM, I think water jet cut edges would be smooth? Abrasive polished even?

 

[-SE40-]

Lasercutting is to my knowledge more cost effective to waterjetting. It does have a minimal burr.
No real problem, I feel.