Hacking the Kodak Reels 8mm Film Digitizer (New Thread)
- Thread starter Mac84
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To add to the tabulated serial numbers, my European/UK (RODREELSEU) unit, delivered in September after a 2 month shipping delay has S/N C1725148BK002**, very close to that quoted by MHreels (#107). Until I've completed a first pass on my collected 8mm family films I'm reluctant to risk experimenting with firmware updates, but would be happy to try the enhancements if I was confident of being able to revert the system to the factory-installed firmware. Have any other users confirmed the compatibility of the H2324148BK Series Kodak firmware that MHreels attached?
I also have a European model and the number is exactly the same as yours. My number is just longer, it has a 37 added at the end. I have tried all the firmware version C that are out there and they all work for me.
New here, so hello to everyone. Just got my Reels... had a Sniper DV8 about 18 years ago, so I am back at it. Newby question: can anyone here sell a hacked/upgraded chip/board with the upgrade successfully installed already? If not, what is the easiest upgrade I can do that doesn't require code/wiring, etc knowledge? TIA
Upgrading the firmware only requires an SD card. However, new "2025" serial numbered units may not be compatible. Can you share the serial number of your unit? Via the sticker located at the bottom of the model, that'll help ensure compatibility and reduce the risk of updating incompatible firmware.
Heya, been lurking this thread for a while. I have what may be a "D" unit with original firmware. I do have some basic soldering ability. If the steps for dumping aren't too crazy I coud give it a shot. Also happy to mail it off to someone with more experience and time than myself. Let me know how I can help.
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Excellent!
I recently did a live stream (start at the 22 minute mark in this video) where I took apart the device and soldered on three small cables to communicate with it via a UART serial adapter (I'm using an Arduino nano as one) to dump the firmware. Take a look and see if that's something you are comfortable with.
The wires are thin, but if you are experienced it shouldn't be too bad. If you have any questions let me know!
Here are also written instructions for opening the device and so on:
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1htmhRHyY_kEjoiTgSInV0PeXvzyXTMaXDYJ_3Ai4A4A/edit?usp=sharing
Also, depending on your location, I'd be happy to have it shipped here to modify for you.
While we are waiting for an original image for the new type D unit, progress continues. Currently all my text and histogram rendering using the preview video buffers, the YUV data that contains the lower resolution of the film-scan for display. This is a very useful buffer as I used it for my exposure control, and computing the histogram, but for displaying settings, this is wrong place. I've since found the LCD's display overlay bitmap. It had alluded me, as it was not in a format I would have expected, like RGB 24bit or RGBA 32bit. The JPEG images in the firmware are 864x480, but there is no 864x480 surface anywhere in the memory, but it did find a 480x864 (first pixel is the top right corner) that is 8-bit palette mapped (a throwback from 20+ years ago.)
This is the palette (colors 0 to 255 , 0 is transparent to the video layer below)
For all unit types, the overlay bitmap is at 0x81821180
If you have a serial port to have play with it.
> mem fill 81821180 65400 0
Makes the screen completely transparent
> mem fill 81821180 65400 ff
fills it with white
Once I have the font engine working on the overlay buffer, I will move the exposure stats and data to the right edge (off the film scan area.) I will leave the histogram as is, as that needs the full color of YUV.
This is the palette (colors 0 to 255 , 0 is transparent to the video layer below)
For all unit types, the overlay bitmap is at 0x81821180
If you have a serial port to have play with it.
> mem fill 81821180 65400 0
Makes the screen completely transparent
> mem fill 81821180 65400 ff
fills it with white
Once I have the font engine working on the overlay buffer, I will move the exposure stats and data to the right edge (off the film scan area.) I will leave the histogram as is, as that needs the full color of YUV.
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Thanks to the advice here. I got my replacement unit and have no skipping issues anymore.
It is also a D variant. I took a stab a disassembling the unit tonight. I’ll do the soldering and dumping later this week.
I followed Mac84’s stream to see what the process entails. I found it quicker to take the LCD and then straight remove the board.
For now, here are some pics of the D variant board, in case that’s interesting to anyone. But it looks like the same board as the other variants to me.
It is also a D variant. I took a stab a disassembling the unit tonight. I’ll do the soldering and dumping later this week.
I followed Mac84’s stream to see what the process entails. I found it quicker to take the LCD and then straight remove the board.
For now, here are some pics of the D variant board, in case that’s interesting to anyone. But it looks like the same board as the other variants to me.
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