Modding the Kodak Reels 8mm Film Digitizer (Firmware Hack)

omega

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Jul 29, 2025
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Can anyone tell me how to remove the lens cap? I thought it was snapped on, but I can't. I would like to check if the focus is OK.
 

Mac84

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Can anyone tell me how to remove the lens cap? I thought it was snapped on, but I can't. I would like to check if the focus is OK.
The original Kodak lens has a dab of string glue on it. I removed mine with a hot air gun set to low, unsure if a hair dryer may work. You want to be careful not to melt anything.

Once removed the lens is on a spiral mount, so you can rotate it one way or the other to get better focus. At least one of the units I had from the factory wasn't focused well, while the other was perfect.
 

Mac84

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Oh the translator. I wanted to know how to remove the cover to get to the lens.
Although it's likely possible to remove the plastic hood for the camera without taking apart the whole unit... it's way easier to do it once the device has been taken apart. As the piece is very firmly in place, in my experience.

Be careful, there's a lot of small ribbon cables in the device that can be easily damaged.

Here's a rough guide of how to open the unit. Please follow the instructions carefully to avoid damage.
 

omega

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Jul 29, 2025
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I just want to make sure we're both talking about the same cover.
 

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  • cover.jpg
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Umba67

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Dec 4, 2024
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Thanks for the revised 3D model. Can you please share it by attaching it to a post here?

I'd like to see if it solves the issue I have of things not being in focus on the left side of things.
Hello Mac84, what do I have to do? Sorry I don't understand what do you mean. Thank you
 

Mac84

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Hello Mac84, what do I have to do? Sorry I don't understand what do you mean. Thank you
You posted a photo of the 3D model you modified to fit the camera mount. Can you please upload the 3D model printable file (STL, Step, etc) that you created so I may print it and use it on my Kodak digitizer too?

You can attach the 3D print file to a reply post to upload it.

Thanks 👍
 

Umba67

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Dec 4, 2024
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You posted a photo of the 3D model you modified to fit the camera mount. Can you please upload the 3D model printable file (STL, Step, etc) that you created so I may print it and use it on my Kodak digitizer too?

You can attach the 3D print file to a reply post to upload it.

Thanks 👍
I'm not very good with the dynamics of these posts, I answered in the other thread you posted. Sorry
 

fishgee

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Jan 6, 2025
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You posted a photo of the 3D model you modified to fit the camera mount. Can you please upload the 3D model printable file (STL, Step, etc) that you created so I may print it and use it on my Kodak digitizer too?

You can attach the 3D print file to a reply post to upload it.

Thanks 👍
My reading (perhaps incorrectly) of his modifications are that he drilled/filed/shaped the original model. He said the STL needed to be modified, but didn't say that HE modified it. So get the drill bits and files out, campers!
 

Mac84

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My reading (perhaps incorrectly) of his modifications are that he drilled/filed/shaped the original model. He said the STL needed to be modified, but didn't say that HE modified it. So get the drill bits and files out, campers!
I misunderstood. I guess I was confused that there was an image of a 3D model… and assumed it could be downloaded
 

Umba67

New Tinkerer
Dec 4, 2024
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Thank you for the details.

I'm sorry - I assumed you created a new 3D model based on the one 0dan0 made. I was unaware that you physically modified it, instead of digitally modeling it inside of a 3D program.

I'll try to duplicate with the steps you provided. Thank you!
Ok, I dismantled It. :)
Since the back of the camera has a square shape, you have to remove a block of plastic that expose the hole.View attachment 22854View attachment 22855
Then there are the two pins protruding.
The spacer drilled, not a masterpiece. :)
View attachment 22856View attachment 22857View attachment 22858
 

Umba67

New Tinkerer
Dec 4, 2024
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I drilled the printed piece with a modeling micromotor (don't know if the translation is correct) by eye, trying it in place until the parts fit one against the other with no presumable "basculation", and I enlarged the "wrong" holes a little. then I used some new screw M1 1.6 12mm long. Sorry I don't have pictures of the workflow. I also tried to mount the camera without the spacer but with long screws and nuts, but I was unable to find a little wrench to tigthen the small nut on the other side.
In my opinion that would have been a better solution, because you can control the "banking" and the "jaw" of the camera in all direction. But vibrations made the nut loose because I was not able to tighen them properly.View attachment 22847View attachment 22849View attachment 22850To me this ideais is viable, but I don't have the tools small enough.
This little wrench has the head too big, that doesn't fit in the small space to apply force.
View attachment 22851View attachment 22853View attachment 22852