Thanks a lot. I really appreciate the work you have been putting into this. I had a hunch that the answer i was looking for was already in the thread. I just tested it out and am pleased with the results. I'll be sure to read through the thread, so as not to post any duplicate questions.
Hacking the Kodak Reels 8mm Film Digitizer (New Thread)
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Hey Guest, MARCHintosh 2026 is upon us. Check out community projects, join GlobalTalk, and have fun!
In the time between now and then, would you be open to a crowd-funded effort to provide you a new D unit? I think the community here would be able to make that happen in support your work?
I damaged the terminals of the 10 pin cable, joining the control board to the processor. I tried to reconfigure the contacts but did`n t suceed. Now I have ordered new cables. Can somebody tell me wether the straight connection (contacts on the same side, Type A) or the inverse one (Type B) is required? I missed to take a picture of the original.
For the 40 pin cable it is clear, that it is type A. Thank you for your help!
The modifyed Kodak Reels is a superb system and I wouldn`t go back to the previous scanner.
For the 40 pin cable it is clear, that it is type A. Thank you for your help!
The modifyed Kodak Reels is a superb system and I wouldn`t go back to the previous scanner.
Hi @hasi here the pictures: I had to open my model B again because in the excitement of rebuilding, I've inserted the command board upside-down and I've noticed only when I' was ready to scan a reel...
The cable is not twisted, but it may be twisted on the board, or simply the board could be mounted reversed compared to the command board. In any cases check the picture: one side of the cable is printed so you can buy a type-a and mount it in the same way. Let me know if the pics are showing enough for you to understand how to mount it
Besides: why didn't you try to cut short the damaged cable, strip gently with some sandpaper the new end, to expose the connectors and give it a try?
Good luck, Federico
Attachments
Hi everyone, I'm scanning with 7.7.0 a 8mm 1943 reel from my grandfather. Some war footage in b/w from Tunisia (with Panzer IVs, Macchi planes and burning airstrips: some examples attached) and I've noticed that the film has a bronze/brown strip outside of the driving holes and I reckon it might have an audio channel embedded.
Have a look to the two attached pictures: what do you think?
If so, is there any way to record it, maybe with an old cassette player? I am not aware that my grandfather duplicated the original footage over a new film, adding a post-production sound, so if it is an audio track indeed, it may be original.
Thank you, ciao, F.
Have a look to the two attached pictures: what do you think?
If so, is there any way to record it, maybe with an old cassette player? I am not aware that my grandfather duplicated the original footage over a new film, adding a post-production sound, so if it is an audio track indeed, it may be original.
Thank you, ciao, F.
Attachments
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Sorry, one more post for suggesting, if possible, an improvement to add to the next firmware development. I don't know if you guys have the same problem but it happens to me, when the reel has joints, that the frame zoom no longer adapts to the new segment: either on top or at the bottom some lines of the adjacent frame show up.
It would be wonderful if the zoom or even simply the offset point of the captured frame could be moved to match the new position.
The alternative is to capture a wider area and reframe it later on, but sometimes the leaking projector light is way to strong for the faded reels, and it creates a mess.
Probably during the adjustment, the auto exposure should be temporarily locked to the last position and then restored once the position rests for a few frames, so to avoid flickering.
What do you think?
Thank you! F.
It would be wonderful if the zoom or even simply the offset point of the captured frame could be moved to match the new position.
The alternative is to capture a wider area and reframe it later on, but sometimes the leaking projector light is way to strong for the faded reels, and it creates a mess.
Probably during the adjustment, the auto exposure should be temporarily locked to the last position and then restored once the position rests for a few frames, so to avoid flickering.
What do you think?
Thank you! F.
Thank you for the pictures! To me it shows, that the cable is B- Type with the pins inverted. The blue stripe is in both connectors pointing to the top, but since the connector of the control board is upside- down, relative to the cable the contacts are opposite. Please tell me if I see it wrong. For me it was also important to see, that the cable is not twisted 180 deg. -Not respecting that could cause short citcuit and my unit would be gone. I tried with sanding the ends but didn`t succed. I hope that with the ordered cales it returns to life again.
have a nice day!
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